1998 Ford Contour Logo
joe lewis Posted on Dec 21, 2010
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1998 ford contour 2.5 ltr manual,stuck in second and have to hold the clutch in to move it.how do i solve this issue?

1 Answer

gerry bissi

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  • Ford Master 4,390 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 21, 2010
gerry bissi
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SECTION 308-00: Manual Transmission/Transaxle and Clutch - General Information 1998 Contour/Mystique Workshop Manual DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Manual Transaxle and Clutch Manual Transaxle and Clutch - General Information This section covers general procedures for diagnosis and testing the clutch system. For additional information, refer to Section 308-01 . For specified clutch system service procedures. For additional information, refer to Section 308-02 . For a complete description of the manual transaxle. For additional information, refer to Section 308-03 .
The clutch system includes:

  • Flywheel.
  • Clutch disc.
  • Clutch pressure plate.
  • Clutch master cylinder.
  • Clutch slave cylinder.
  • Clutch release fork.
  • Clutch release hub and bearing.
The clutch master cylinder transmits fluid pressure to the slave cylinder, which in turn moves the clutch release fork and the clutch release hub and bearing.
The clutch master cylinder uses brake fluid and shares a common reservoir with the brake master cylinder
The clutch is a single plate, dry-friction disc with a diaphragm-style spring clutch pressure plate. The clutch disc has a hub which is splined to the input shaft. The clutch disc has friction material where it contacts the flywheel and the clutch pressure plate. Torsion springs on the clutch disc help absorb the engine torque pulses. The clutch pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch disc, holding it tightly against the surface of the flywheel.
In the engaged position, the diaphragm spring holds the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc, so that engine torque is transmitted to the input shaft. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch release hub and bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center toward the flywheel. The diaphragm spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch pressure plate. Steel spring straps riveted to the clutch pressure plate cover pull the clutch pressure plate from the clutch disc, disengaging the engine torque from the transaxle and enabling the gears to be changed.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inspection and Verification - MTX-75
The following checks should be carried out before repairing or replacing the transaxle:
Poor gear shifting
  1. Check the operation of the clutch: Lay a block of wood approx. 25 mm thick under the clutch pedal and depress the clutch pedal as far as the stop. If 1st or 2nd gear can be selected with no problem with the engine running and the parking brake applied, the clutch is OK. If the gear cannot be selected, repair the clutch.
  1. Check the selector mechanism:
    • The free play in the gearshift lever must be no more than 15 mm.
      • If the gearshift lever free play is too great, check the gearshift cables and replace them if necessary.
    • If the gearshift lever free play is OK, adjust the gearshift linkage. For additional information, refer to Section 308-06 .
  1. Check the transaxle fluid level and top up with Automatic Transmission Fluid ESD-M2C186-A if necessary.
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  • 1 more comment 
  • gerry bissi Dec 21, 2010

    please rate when done reading. Thanks.



    Symptom Chart - General Concerns




























































































    Symptom Chart
    Condition Possible Sources Action


        Clicking noises in reverse gear


        Gear wheels.


        INSTALL new gear wheels.


        Gear wheels banging when shifting.


        Damaged clutch.
          Selector forks or synchronizer rings.


        For additional information, refer to Section 308-01 .
          CHECK the components for damage.


        Noises in the forward gears


        Transaxle fluid level too low.
          The engine/transaxle assembly is in contact with the chassis/body.
            Engine/transaxle flange bolts.
              Input and output shaft bearings. Gear wheels (usually on high-mileage vehicles).


        Top up the transaxle fluid.
          Look for points of contact or damaged engine/transaxle isolator, roll resistor.
            TIGHTEN the transaxle flange bolts. For additional information, refer to Section 308-03 .
              Remove the transaxle. CHECK the bearings and gear wheels and INSTALL new parts as necessary.


        Stiff gearshift


        Transaxle fluid.
          Damaged synchronizer rings or inner selector mechanism.


        CHECK that the transaxle is filled with the specified transaxle fluid and, if necessary, fill up with transaxle fluid of the type listed under "Specifications".
          CHECK the internal components for damage, INSTALL new parts as necessary.


        Gears jump out of engagement


        Malfunction between the gearshift lever and the gearshift lever housing.
          Engine/transaxle isolator, roll resistor.
            Internal components.


        Adjust the gearshift mechanism or repair the fault.
          REPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
            CHECK the selector shafts, selector forks and synchronizer units and INSTALL new parts as necessary.


        One of the gears cannot be selected


        Fault between the gearshift lever and gearshift lever housing.


        Adjust the gearshift mechanism or repair the defect.


        3rd gear jumps out of engagement


        Internal selector mechanism loose, causing the selector finger guide to move on the inner selector shaft.


        TIGHTEN the pin to 25 Nm.


        Reverse gear cannot be selected


        Outer gearshift mechanism.
          Internal components.


        CHECK the outer gearshift mechanism for damage. As necessary, remove it to see whether reverse gear can then be selected.
          Remove the transaxle assembly and CHECK the reverse gear idler and the appropriate selector fork, selector shaft and synchronizer unit. INSTALL new parts as necessary.


        Stiff gearshift


        Gearshift lever housing broken or damaged.
          Joint housing.
            Gearshift lever joint.
              Gearshift lever not securely attached to mounting.


        INSTALL a new gearshift lever housing.
          INSTALL a new gearshift lever as necessary.
            INSTALL a new gearshift lever as necessary.
              TIGHTEN or INSTALL new self-tapping screws.


        Clattering, rattling or booming noises


        Gearshift lever joint.
          Gearshift lever knob loose.


        INSTALL a new gearshift lever.
          TIGHTEN the gearshift lever knob or, INSTALL a new as necessary.


        Gearshift lever not functioning - no gear can be selected


        Gearshift lever housing detached at the floor assembly.


        Secure the gearshift lever housing.


        Gearshift lever feels loose


        Gearshift lever joint.


        INSTALL a new gearshift lever.


        Grinding or clashing noises when shifting into 3rd gear


        Deflected lubrication condition causing early 3rd gear wear


        INSTALL a new 3rd speed gear, 3rd/4th gear shiftfork, outer synchronizer ring, inner synchronizer ring, 3rd speed synchronizer cone, 3rd/4th synchronizer assembly.

  • gerry bissi Dec 21, 2010

    Symptom Chart - Clutch





























































    Symptom Chart
    Condition Possible Sources Action


        Clutch Slippage


        Clutch pedal free play.
          Sticking clutch pedal.
            Diaphragm springs.
              Clutch pressure plate.
                Clutch disc facing.
                  Hardened or oiled clutch disc facing surface.
                    Flywheel.


        Go to Pinpoint Test A .


        Clutch Chatter or Shudder


        Engine mounts.
          Oil on clutch disc facing.
            Diaphragm springs.
              Clutch pressure plate.
                Clutch disc facing.
                  Flywheel.


        Go to Pinpoint Test B .


        Clutch Drag


        Insufficient brake fluid.
          Air in hydraulic system.
            Clutch pedal free play.
              Diaphragm springs.
                Clutch disc.
                  Clutch disc splines.
                    Oil on facing.


        Go to Pinpoint Test C .


        Clutch Pedal Pulsation


        Clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft not correctly lubricated.
          Flywheel.
            Bad springs in pressure plate.


        Go to Pinpoint Test D .


        Clutch Related Vibrations


        Engine component grounding against frame.
          Accessory drive belt.
            Flywheel bolts.
              Flywheel
                Imbalanced clutch pressure plate.


        Go to Pinpoint Test E .


        Hard Shifting


        Insufficient brake fluid.
          Clutch pedal free play.
            Manual transaxle concern.


        Go to Pinpoint Test F .


        Excessive Noise


        Clutch pedal free play.
          Clutch release bearing.
            Poor lubrication of clutch release bearing.
              Pilot bearing.
                Excessive crankshaft end play.


        Go to Pinpoint Test G .


        Fluid Leakage


        Clutch master cylinder.
          Clutch slave cylinder.
            Clutch hydraulic tubes.


        Go to Pinpoint Test H .

  • gerry bissi Dec 21, 2010

    by the way - check fluid level in clutch master cylinder and bleed if necessary to remove air, check for leaks.



    The MTX-75 manual transmission is equipped with a cable gearshift mechanism on the Contour/Mystique.

    The shift cable is white and the selector cable is black.

    In order to disconnect the cables from their brackets on the transmission and at the gear lever, twist the two halves of each bracket counterclockwise against each other.

    Because they are jointly connected to the floor assembly, the selector and shift cables may only be installed newly as a pair.






































    Item Part Number Description
    1 - Gearshift lever
    2 - Shift cable
    3 - Selector cable
    4 - Gear selector lever on the transmission
    5 - Gearshift lever on the transmission
    6 - Cable guide

×

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 674 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 18, 2008

SOURCE: wheel bearing ford contour

this comes a a hub assembly
you need to remove the brakes and brake rotor
the center nut holding in your CV shaft
in the hub you will find holes that you can put your socket threw to remove the mounting bolts.
07ae802.jpg

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 23, 2008

SOURCE: ford contour

Check your timing belt by carefully removing the timing belt pulley cover to the left of the valve cover. The valve cover houses the spark plugs. You should be able to flash a flashlight down and see your timing belt. Most likely, you have a timing belt going, or a shaving stuck in your VCT solenoid. I'm guessing the belt is worn and has slipped a tooth or two. I would take caution driving it as it's been disputed that it could be an interference engine, and you could do serious damage to your vehicle.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Nov 08, 2008

SOURCE: 1998 ford contour

I encountered this same problem and the solution is rather uncomfortable for any normal sized human. You will actually have to get on your back and look straight up under the dash (not a comfortable position) just a little forward from where your left knee would be when driving. If you can set up a low table or some other solid object just outside the driver's door about the same height as the kick panel this will be helpful to ease discomfort while accessing the fuse box. You will recognize the fuse box as it has a diagram of the fuse locations on the outside of the box. You will probably need a flat head screwdriver to push the tab which opens the box. Good luck and hope this helps.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 26, 2008

SOURCE: 1998 ford contour fuse diagram

dont have an actual diagram but if you check at mastercraft.com they have a copy of the owners manual online and its free to access.

Anonymous

  • 379 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 19, 2009

SOURCE: need a diagram for serpentine belt 1998 Ford Contour 4cyl 2.0l.

98 ford contour 2.0 belt routing

here is a picture of routing and how to do it , etc. , good resource ..

J5

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Article No.
98-21-14
  • IGNITION SWITCH - HIGH EFFORT IGNITION KEY INSERTION/REMOVAL AND/OR KEY CHIMES SOUND WITH DOOR OPEN AND IGNITION KEY REMOVED
Publication Date: OCTOBER 15, 1998
FORD: 1998 CONTOUR LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1998 MYSTIQUE
1999 COUGAR
This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to include the 1999 Cougar . ISSUE: The ignition key may be difficult to insert or remove and/or key chimes may sound with the ignition key removed and driver's door open on some vehicles. This may be caused by internal design characteristics in the ignition lock cylinder increasing insertion/removal efforts which may allow the lock cylinder to stick.
ACTION: Install a revised ignition lock cylinder. The revised ignition lock cylinder should reduce the possibility of high insertion/removal efforts and ensure proper chime function. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
  1. Verify customer concern.
  2. Observe the ignition lock cylinder as the key is removed. If the lock cylinder snaps outward to the non-depressed position and the chimes stop sounding, continue to Step 3. If it does not snap outward, replace the ignition lock cylinder with the appropriate cylinder by referring to the Parts Block in this article.
  3. Insert and remove the ignition key from the lock cylinder. If binding or high efforts are encountered, replace the ignition lock cylinder.
  4. From the Parts Block, select a lock cylinder with a part number suffix identical to the center character of the key code of the vehicle. The suffix must match the center key code character to maintain a single key system.
  5. Install the replacement lock cylinder, by referring to the 1998 Contour/Mystique Workshop Manual, Section 211-05 or the 1999 Cougar Workshop Manual, Section 211-04. NOTE: KEYS INCLUDED WITH NEW IGNITION LOCK CYLINDERS ARE CUT FOR THE IGNITION ONLY. IN ORDER FOR THE KEYS TO FUNCTION IN THE DOOR LOCKS, THE KEYS MUST BE CUT TO THE DOOR CODE OF THE ORIGINAL LOCKSET. THE KEY CODE WILL CHANGE UPON INSTALLATION OF THE REPLACEMENT LOCK CYLINDER (FIGURE 1).

    tw2114~us~en~file=tb5525a.gif~gen~ref.gif
    Figure 1 - Article 98-21-14

    NOTE: ADVISE THE CUSTOMER TO DISCARD ALL KEYS THAT WERE CUT TO THE ORIGINAL IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER.
  6. Record the new key code on the repair order and provide to the customer. Advise the customer to record the new key code in a permanent location and to discard all references to the original key code. NOTE: REPLACEMENT IGNITION LOCK CYLINDERS ARE SHIPPED WITH NON-PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM (PATS) KEYS. IF THE VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH PATS, OBTAIN TWO (2) ROTUNDA KEY BLANKS (OR OTHER FORD AUTHORIZED BLANKS, SUCH AS: ILCO, STRATTEC, CURTIS, HUF, OR VALEO) AND CUT TO THE REVISED KEY CODE. USE OF OTHER UNAUTHORIZED KEYS MAY CAUSE ERRATIC OPERATION OF THE PATS SYSTEM.
  7. Program PATS keys using one of the two following methods:
(1) For vehicles with Integrated PATS (IPATS), function built into the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and built beginning:
  • 2/2/98 Kansas City (Contour/Mystique)
  • 2/16/98 Mexico (Contour/Mystique)
  • All 1999 Cougars
Using the New Generation Star (NGS) Tester equipped with Service card (green) level 3.0 or higher:
  1. From NGS menu, select:
    • Service Bay Functions
    • PCM
    • Enter Security Access (10 minute delay)
    • Ignition Key-Code-Erase
  2. Disconnect Data Link Connector (DLC).
  3. Cycle the first non-programmed key in the ignition to run position for at least 3 seconds and then turn to the off position.
  4. Cycle the second non-programmed key in the ignition to run position. The theft indicator should prove out for 3 seconds.
  5. Verify the vehicle will now start using both keys.
(2) For Contours/Mystiques with Stand Alone PATS and built before:
  • 2/2/98 Kansas City
  • 2/16/98 Mexico
Using the New Generation Star (NGS) Tester equipped with Service card (green) level 1.0 or higher:
  1. From NGS menu, select:
    • Service Bay Functions
    • PATS
    • Ignition Key-Code-Erase (this process may take up to 8 minutes to complete )
  2. Disconnect DLC.
  3. Cycle first unprogrammed key in the ignition to run position. First key will program and allow vehicle to start.
  4. Again cycle first programmed key to run position. Within 15 seconds, remove original key and turn new unprogrammed key to run position. The theft indicator should prove out for 2 seconds. New key will start vehicle.
  5. Repeat this process for additional key programming. NOTE: THE FOLLOWING SHOULD BE NOTED FOR THE PART NUMBER BLOCK:
    • Part Number suffix will match center character in key code
    • Logo on key is Ford for Contour models
    • Logo on key is Mercury for Mystique and Cougar models


PART NUMBER PART NAME F5RZ-11582-A Ignition Lock Cylinder (Contour) F5RZ-11582-B Ignition Lock Cylinder (Contour) F5RZ-11582-C Ignition Lock Cylinder (Contour) F5RZ-11582-D Ignition Lock Cylinder (Contour) F5RZ-11582-E Ignition Lock Cylinder (Contour) F5RY-11582-A Ignition Lock Cylinder (Mystique, Cougar) F5RY-11582-B Ignition Lock Cylinder (Mystique, Cougar) F5RY-11582-C Ignition Lock Cylinder (Mystique, Cougar) F5RY-11582-D Ignition Lock Cylinder (Mystique, Cougar) F5RY-11582-E Ignition Lock Cylinder (Mystique, Cougar
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