4wd actuators are in the transfer case not the diff housing
on a diff housing it is more likely to be a diff lock to lock the 2 front wheels together
SOURCE: Chevy Tahoe 2001
Place vehicle in 4wd (high or low). This will hold the front drive shaft still for the rest of the test. Jack up the front end of the vehicle. Remove the actuator. Have a buddy spin the right front wheel while you use a long punch or screwdriver to try to manually engage the diff. The left front wheel should spin in the other direction if the diff is good. Also before you check the diff you need to grab the front driveshaft and make sure it is locked, If it spins freely when the truck is in park and in 4wd with the front end raised then problem is in transfer case. If you can't make the diff engage manually with punch then the problem is in the diff. If front diff engages manually then the problem is the actuator. Hope this helps..
SOURCE: Front wheels do not turn
I did run the vehicle on the lift in 4wd. The actuator is trying to engage. I removed the right side axle housing and found the shim on the end of the shaft had fallen out of place. The small roller bearing in the shaft was damaged as well. This may have happended on a previous axle seal replacement. A new shim, and bearing fixed the problem. Thanks for our reply
SOURCE: Rear differential driveshaft seal leak.
Hello,you need to remove driveshaft to be able to get to the nut.Remove the nut (MAY BE VERY TIGHT) and pull the yoke or flange as you called it out & you can pop old seal out & new seal in.You may want to smear a tiny bit of grease or vasoline on outside of seal for easier installation & also on the rubber part of seal so itwon't get damaged when you re-install the yoke.Hope this helps.
SOURCE: 4 WD clunking and clicking sound when turning left or right
Sounds like the front drive axles are worn.My 89 MPV had the same "clicling" noise with an occasional clunk.The reason you feel it more in 4wd mode is because power is now being transfered thru the worn axles. I replaced both sides for approx $375(Axles rebuilt were 130 for drivers side and 110 for passenger side the rest was labor)
SOURCE: I have a 2002 Chevy
Fuse is located at the end of eh dash on drivers side and the Actuator is located at the front differential and on the passenger side.
When in 4wd mode, a switch on top of the transfer case conducts 12 volts out to the actuator. Wire #50 (brown) is the 12v feed, and it conducts to the light blue wire (#900) to the actuator.
When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no voltage goes to the actuator.
Check voltage at the connector for the front actuator (at the front differential - it looks like a large bullet that threads into the front diff.) If it has 12 volts, the actuator is the problem. If it does not have 12 volts, check the transfer case switch and the power feed to the transfer case.
I'll assume it is the actuator, if the plug to the actuator is getting 12 volts when in 4wd.
The way this actuator works, is it is a sealed chamber that gets heated by voltage. When it heats, the pin in the end swells and pushes a shift fork in the front differential. The shift fork engages a spline on the passenger side of the differential, and boom! you have 4WD.
GM offered an upgrade to this actuator that is a motor instead of a heated device. However, it requires a small harness addition, a spacer, and a new actuator. It is about a $150 to $200 option.
Good luck. The actuator is usually the problem 90% of time but recheck all of the wire harness just to maker sure there is no short before replacing any parts. The actuator may not be fully engaged or disengaged and the fork to the spline may be what is causing the grinding.
88-UP C/K ACTUATOR UPGRADE
VEHICLE SERVICED: 88-99 CHEVROLET FULL SIZE
PURPOSE: IMPROVE AXLE CONNECT ENGAGEMENT TIME AND
COMPONENT RELIABILITY.
SYMPTOMS: NO FRONT DRIVE AXLE ENGAGEMENT WHEN SHIFTED INTO 4X4.
Obtain the following GM part numbers:
(1) 26060073 Actuator
(1) 88959465 Harness/Spacer Kit
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