1995 Buick LeSabre - horn blows

My horn would honk without any assistance from me. The reason was because the plastic cover for the air bag and horn switches had shrunk so tight that it pressed on the horn switches. If your problem is intermittent then cold temperature would also cause the cover to shrink. This is how I solved the problem on my 1995 Buick LeSabre:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.

1. Under the hood I found a long black plastic cover with the words, “Maxi-Fuse/Relay Center”

2. 2. There are two plastic twist locks (turn ¼ left) and one small wing nut holding the cover on. When the cover is off I see two black fuse covers side by side and below them are several relays. Some are gray and some are black.
3. My horn relay was the second from the left as I faced the rear of my car. It was gray. Some may be black.
4. A small green retainer tab had to be pushed out before I could pull the relay out. On the back of the relay were two orange wires that supply 12V. One green wire that goes to the horns and one black wire for ground that goes to the horn switch under the air bag.
5. I cut the black wire and wired in a spst push button switch that I connected to ground.
6. I mounted the push button switch near the driver’s door on a flat part of the dash. I used very strong double sided tape to secure the button switch to the dash.

My horns now are activated when I push my new horn switch button. My problem solved.

Someone recommended removing the air bag/horn switch unit from the steering wheel and relieving the tightness of the plastic cover. There are probably more than one way to this.

I had this issue on my 1995 lesabre limited and refused to pay GM $800 to replace the air module why should i pay for there screw up so i fixed mine without any by pass switch or tampering with any relays and it took me about an hour. i first disconnected the horns under the hood. next you will need to remove a total of 6 screws. 2 if your car does not have audio or temp buttons on the wheel. so behind the steering wheel are 2 hex head screws remove them this will release the center airbag/ horn hub. carefully pull out and turn over as if turning a page to a book. but carefully do this as there is not much room as you will be letting the wires running in to it connected, next remove the 4 hex screws that hold the side buttons on this will allow you to gain access around the rubber surface cover on the wheel. now looking at the back of the hub are 2 sets of contacts that are laminated in plastic they are the thickness of a credit card you can not cut these as they are your horn contacts. Using a utility knife etch the rubber cover from the back of the hub careful not to cut thru horn contacts or any visable wires. carefully pull rubber as you ecth the surface help to remove it. this rubber cover will be replaced after your done with the next step which is fixing the horn problem. now that the rubber cover is off look at the front side of the hub. you will notice 2 squares fastened in each side of the hub they also are about the thickness of a credit card and about the same size. these are the horn contacts remove both and use a pair of scissors to reduce them down to a 1 inch square, carefull not to cut thru the horn connectors wraping around from the back of the hub. you will be reattaching them back to the hub in the upper left and right coners of the horn hub and securing them using a 2 stripes of duck tape run horizonally under the copper connectors in each lower corner. make sure you run your duck tape in between the copper strips but careful not to cover it completely you need some surface contact area the purpose of the duct tape is to allow a space between the 2 copper contacts and also to resecure the contact back on the hub. now put your rubber wheel cover back on and securing it around the backside of the hub and reinstall your temp and audio buttons and secure the 2 screws in the back to attach back to steering wheel all done now you have a horn that wont go off all the time. and by all meens im now mechanic you can do this project yourself and i never unhooked the battery. just take your time and have an ounce of common sense and you can do it. and if done right you cant tell you just fixed a problem using a utility knife and a good ole piece of "WV Chrome"/ "Duct Tape"

This happened to my roadmaster, do u have kids or some one in ur car that messes around? my buddy hit my horn to hard and now it blows on its own sometime... we have the same steering wheel all u need to do is press in the sides

FIND THE HORN ITS USUALLY UNDER THE HOOD BY THE FRONT GRILL. THERE SHOULD ONLY BE ONE WIRE GOING TO IT ...HOT OR RED FOR POWER,THE GROUND IS PROVIDED BY THE HORN BEING ATTACHED TO THE CAR.
POP OFF THE WIRE AND TAKE A LOSE PEACE OF WIRE AND TOUCH ONE END TO THE CONNECTION YOU JUST REMOVED THE WIRE FROM AND THE OTHER END TO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL OF THE BATTERY. IF IT BLOWS THE HORN THEN THE PROBLEM IS IN THE STEERING COLUME UNDER THE HORN CAP, SOMETHING UNDER THERE ISNT MAKEING CONTACT. IF IT DOESNT BLOW THE HORN THEN REPLACE THE HORN.
GOOD LUCK!!!

The air bag shrinks, causing the horn to blow.
You can pull the fuse under the hood, but it's a relay and you lose your power locks and some other good things. If you pull the airbag out, you can cap the horn wire, then you wont have a horn, or you need to replace the airbag pack.

Water has gotten into the clock-spring/airbag housing causing the metal to corrode, thus sticking to the horn "button" I'm in the same boat, just haven't gotten around to finish it.