I just replaced all timming chains, tensioners and guides on my 98 mercury mountaineer 4.0 v6. There are no timming marks to set the timming with. How do i set the timming ??? PLEASE HELP!!!

1 3 4 2

Please tell me you didn't start a timing chain replacement job without know ahead of time how to set the timing marks.

double posted but this time the CAM pops up.
why not read the FSM first. ? linked below.
or alldata.com . log in and read.

here ill do a paste from JUST install PART chapter.
you are doing ALL THAT book free, REALLY?
https://www.techauthority.com/en-US/Pages/Home.aspx

1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool, release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against spring force through access hole on side of tensioner.
2. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on front of tensioner. Slowly open vise to transfer piston spring force to lock pin.
3. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket. Tighten bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
4. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Install Torx®bolt. Tighten Torx®bolt to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). CAUTION The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to the engine block.
5. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
6. Install left side chain tensioner arm, and Torx®bolt. Tighten Torx®bolt to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
7. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
8. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the secondary timing chains are installed, position special tool 8429 to hold chains in place for installation.
9. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket.
10. Align the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.
11. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil. NOTE The idler sprocket must be timed to the counterbalance shaft drive gear before the idler sprocket is fully seated.
12. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly . After guiding both secondary chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or equivalent. This will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. Align the timing mark on the idler sprocket gear to the timing mark on the counterbalance shaft drive gear, then seat idler sprocket fully . Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm). NOTE It will be necessary to slightly rotate camshafts for sprocket installation.
13. Align left camshaft sprocket "L" dot to plated link on chain.
14. Align right camshaft sprocket "R" dot to plated link on chain. CAUTION Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
15. Remove Special Tool 8429, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
16. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the "V6" marks on camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position. CAUTION Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is correctly installed.
17. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). NOTE Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
18. Remove all locking pins from tensioners. CAUTION After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s) ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains, resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads.
19. Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adaptor Pins 8346, tighten left and right . camshaft sprocket bolts to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm).
20. Rotate engine two full revolutions. Verify timing marks are at the follow locations: ² primary chain idler sprocket dot is at 12 o'clock ² primary chain crankshaft sprocket dot is at 6 o'clock ² secondary chain camshaft sprockets "V6" marks are at 12 o'clock ² counter balancer shaft drive gear dot is aligned to the idler sprocket gear dot.
21. Lubricate all three chains with engine oil.
22. After installing all chains, it is recommended that the idler gear end play be checked. The end play must be within mm 0.004-0.010 inches (0.10-0.25). If not within specification, the idler gear must be replaced.
23. Install timing chain cover and crankshaft damper.
24. Install cylinder head covers. NOTE Before installing threaded plug in right cylinder head, the plug must be coated with sealant to prevent leaks.
25. Coat the large threaded access plug with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon, then install into the right cylinder head and tighten to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm).
26. Install the oil fill housing.
27. Install access plug in left cylinder head.
28. Install power steering pump.
29. Fill cooling system.
30. Connect negative cable to battery.

Could be worn out timing chain guides

Listen with a stethoscope to the front motor cover

That is a lot of work

You have to strip the entire front
of the engine & will need instructions
for timing it.

You may need special tools

I assume the plastic guides broke?

Take pictures of everything before you start removing things

Use a sharpe on all timing gears & chains

Look for the marked chain links & note position

Make a drawing of everything

Before you start, buy a book specific to
doing timing chains
A professional book, not a chilton etc.

You will need to replace the chain guides
& clean or replace the tensioners.

Read all you can about what has to be done first

Not a job, even for some professionals

I understand all you said

Without the vehicle and a fresh
diagnostic approach, I personally
don't think any internet ideas will help

You still have misfires, that are spiking the PCM &
TACM on the throttle body and putting it
into ETC Fail Safe.

Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)

4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)

2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)

2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)

1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)

1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)

1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.

new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change

head gaskets

some of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for 2*4.

The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com

My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:

$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab

$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

Its worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon you could do it in half the time the second time).

It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.

It is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the engine in the car.

You will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid car - except for the plastic guides!

Disclaimer Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview

A Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.

Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.

Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.

At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.

The engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams 180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other settings may cause major damage to the valves.

The 2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.

The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.

With the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in the same position either up and level or down and level.

It is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate for crank timing but not engineering failure.

Be warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.

Now heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.

There is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about 90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)

For the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US $119 - then sell them again for say $100.

There is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the right spot on the cam.

Timing Chain and Gears REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.9L Engine NOTE: The following procedure requires the use of the puller tool No. J-25031 or equivalent, and timing sprocket installation tool No. J-26587 or equivalent.

1. Remove the timing (front) cover from the engine.
2. Lock the shoe on the automatic adjuster in fully retracted position by depressing the adjuster lock lever. NOTE: To remove the timing chain, it may be necessary to remove the camshaft sprocket. Before removing the timing chain, be sure to align the timing marks.
   
3. Remove timing chain from crankshaft sprocket.
4. Check the timing sprockets for wear or damage. If crankshaft sprocket must be replaced, remove the sprocket and the pinion gear from crankshaft using the puller tool No. J-25031 or equivalent.
5. Check timing chain for wear or damage; replace as necessary. Measure distance "L'' (40 links) with the chain stretched with a pull of approximately 22 lbs. (98N). Standard "L'' value is 15 in. (381mm); replace chain if "L'' is greater than 15.16 in. (385mm).
6. Remove the automatic chain adjuster-to-engine bolt and the adjuster.
7. To check the operation of the automatic chain adjuster, push the shoe inwards, if it becomes locked, the adjuster is working properly. The adjuster assembly must be replaced if rack teeth are found to be worn excessively.
8. To remove the chain tensioner, remove the "E'' clip and the tensioner. Check the tensioner for wear or damage; if necessary, replace it. Fig. 1: Timing chain guide and tensioner - 1.9L engine
   
   
9. Inspect the tensioner pin for wear or damage. If replacement is necessary, remove the pin from the cylinder block using a pair of locking pliers. Lubricate the NEW pin tensioner with clean engine oil. Start the pin into block, then place the tensioner over the appropriate pin. Position the E-clip onto the pin, then (using a hammer) tap it into the block until clip just clears tensioner. Check the tensioner and adjuster for freedom of rotation on the pins.
10. Inspect the guide for wear or damage and plugged lower oil jet. If replacement or cleaning is necessary, remove the guide bolts, the guide and the oil jet. Install a new guide and upper attaching bolt. Install the lower oil jet and bolt, so that the oil port is pointed toward crankshaft. To install: Fig. 2: Timing chain alignment and installation - 1.9L engine
    Fig. 3: Inspecting the timing chain for wear
    
    
11. Install the timing sprocket and the pinion gear (groove-side toward the front cover). Align the key groove with crankshaft key, then drive it into position using installation tool No. J-26587 or equivalent.
12. Turn the crankshaft so that key is turned toward the cylinder head-side (No. 1 and No. 4 pistons at TDC).
13. Install the timing chain, align the timing chain mark plate with the mark on the crankshaft timing sprocket. The side of the chain with the mark plate is on the front-side and the side of chain with the most links between mark plates is on the chain guide-side. Keep the timing chain engaged with the camshaft timing sprocket until the camshaft timing sprocket is installed on the camshaft.
14. Install the camshaft timing sprocket so that it's marked-side faces forward and it's triangular mark aligns with the chain mark plate.
15. Install the automatic chain adjuster.
16. Release the lock by depressing the shoe on adjuster by hand, and check to make certain the chain is properly tensioned when the lock is released.
17. Install the timing cover assembly.

I will assume you are referring to the timing procedure for a replacement timing belt (4 cyl) or timing chain (V6) With the V6 timing chain you simply line up the timing marks on the two sprockets so that they are pointing directly toward each other, crankshaft sprocket with the mark pointing straight up, camshaft mark straight down. With the 2.3 L 4 cylinder engine, you must first position the crankshaft at TDC, and then position the oil pump and camshaft sprockets with their timing marks to line up with their respective marks on the inner cover. Install the belt and release the spring tensioner to let it adjust itself, tighten the tensioner bolt, and turn the engine over for 2 rotations (always clockwise as viewed from the front, never backwards). Make sure the marks still line up, loosen the tensioner, allow it to retension itself, and tighten the tensioner bolt. If the oil pump sprocket is not timed correctly, the camshaft position sensor signal will be incorrectly timed.