I have no heat! i have replaced the thermostat, hose to radiator and heater control valve the heater coil has leaked maybe 2 or 3 drops but nothing major (2001 530i)

Try checking the heater control switch/valve, sometimes located in line with the heater hoses (it is a fairly common defect). You may also have a clogged or bad heater coil. (similar to a small radiator) or maybe a fault in the heat system's controls.

check heater control valve.. or see if someone bypassed the heater core.. look for one hose going in the car and one coming out.. if bypassed it will be looped or plugged off...if you are not getting vacuum at the control valve it will not open....if you're control valve has a leaking diaphragm it will not open...need vacuum tester to check that...

Here we go.
Raise the hood and remove the radiator cap.
Start the car and heat up the engine, usually takes about 5 minutes.
Turn on the heater full blast.
At this time, be sure your radiator is full of coolant, because a low radiator will drop the coolant so low the heater will get no water, it could be "air-locked".
If the collant level is low, add coolant and run the engine at a medium speed for 5 minutes to "burp" the air out of the heater hoses.
Feel the heater hoses to see if they are hot. They should be.
Feel the radiator hoses to see if they are hot. They should be.
If the radiator hoses are not hot, you may have a defective thermostat, it it might be stuck open.
If so, the heater would not get hot, because the motor is not.
If the radiator hoses are hot, and the heater hoses are not, likely the hot water is shut off to the heater.
There is likely a control near the firewall that is either controlled by a wire cable or a vacuum line.
This control valve has 2 heater hoses connected to it, one incoming and one outgoing.
Often, the wire cable or the control valve itself will stick due to rust or corrosion, or disuse.
If it is vacuum controlled, you may not be getting vacuum to the control valve, or again, the control valve may be stuck closed.
Sometimes these controls can be freed up with penetrating oil, sometimes they are too far gone to repair, must be replaced.
If you can fix it with penetrating oil, you may need to do that once a year.

Coolant system is a closed system. If you are loosing water there is definately a leak somewhere. Check all hoses after filling the system and letting it run until it's warm. Be careful when checking most systems have the water at 185-210 degrees once the vehicle is warmed up. Also check the Heater Control Valve. It allows hot water to travel to the heater core when you set the ac controls to "heat". Could be bad and leaking there. But bad hoses are the most likely culprit. Only takes a pinhole.

sound like radiator clogged.have coolant system flushed

If the heater coil was bad, it would be leaking radiator fluid... probably into your dash/floorboard (depending on where it is installed in your model car). There is a switch that diverts the hot radiator fluid through the heater coil when you want heat. There is also an air diverter valve that helps to mix the hot and cold air. The fluid valve is controlled by the A/C settings control. The one that you use to choose between heater/air conditioner/vent/ defrost. The air diverter is controlled by the temp mixing controller. The most simple explanation is that one of those valves or the controller of one of those valves is not working. If the hot water cant be diverted through the heater coil, the coil can't exchange the heat (warming the air). If the air diverter (hot/cold controller) cant move to add heat, then all you will feel is air from the vent side (from outside) or from the A/C cooling the air.

I would guess that its either a controller or one of the valves themselves. Odds are, it is a controller. That tends to be what malfunctions first.

As far as the poor running and hard starting, yes, it could be egr or valves or timing or almost anything. Your heat problem : I suspect the heater core may be air locked. With the engine running, loosen one heater hose with the heat control on hot, and see if you can get any air out of it.
Also, check your water pump. Squeeze your rad hose as tight as you can for a bit. When you release it, you should feel a surge of coolant go through it.
Check your heat control valve to see that it's working.

Remove and raise upper hose at thermostat end and remove lower rad hose.
Fill rad with a hose and watch for flow from bottom rad hose and/ or bottom rad hose connecton.......water should fall though rad easily.
Honda rads are cheap.....any restriction....replace rad.

Remove thermostat....fill thermostat housing with hose and watch for water flow at bottom rad hose.
Flush good.

Remove heater hoses.......flush back and forth until a good flow is present "With heater control set to hot" if no or poor flow....replace heater core.

Stop leak can plug everything.

Also.......not likely causing over heating....but ....at your mileage,if you do not know if the timing belt has been changed.....CHANGE IT NOW!
Water pump is optional at this mileage.

There should be a thermal coil in it. I know that mid 90's dodge trucks had it mounted under a cover in the engine compartment by where the heater coil on the passenger side. It's about 2 to 3 inches long. Check on that it actually regulates the heat from your heater. Also check for any antifreeze leaks or sweet smell from your heater, this will be the first signs of it being the heater coil.

First do not work on a hot car. Let your car be cold before attempting to remove the radiator cap.
Check your antifreeze level. If it is not up to the top of the radiator and in the plastic reservoir, add antifreeze. If it is OK, then it is probably your thermostat. Before you do any of this you will have to buy a thermostat for your particular car. The parts guy should get you the correct one.You will have to do a little mechanic work to replace it. You follow the hose at the top of your radiator and remove the clamps that holds the hose to the thermostat housing.you have to pull off the hose and remove the bolts that holds the housing. Underneath is the thermostat. Note how it is positioned inside the housing.Take off the gasket and remove any debris that might be left. Get a little grease or even petroleum jelly to hold the gasket in place and install the new thermostat in the same way you took out the old one. replace the housing being careful not to overtighten the bolts. (you can break the housing) attach the hose and clamps and you are ready to go.Allow the car to warm up and try the heater.