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Re: What if the heater hose going in is hot and the...
Possibly the heater core is 90% blocked. open enough to draw hot water in, (hose feels hot) but not enough volume to provide heat from very cold air, 10% hot water gets cold quick, coming from core..
Flush heater core in reverse direction - cold side in hot side out..
No your thermostat is stuck open which will not hurt the engine. but needs to be replaced, the thermostat is what allows the engine get up to operating temp. before allowing water to flow through the radiator and when it is stuck open it doesnt allow the engine to reach operating temp. so the heater never gets hot. I hope that helps you out.
sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
Hi!
It
appears we have an Air lock scenario and you will need to perform a
system Bleed.
Park
the vehicle on level ground, when cold remove coolant filler cap,
start engine and leave to idle, turn heater on full and blower to
max. When engine reaches operating temperature watch and listen near
coolant filler, keep clear as gurgling and hopefully a boil over
should occur. Top up with very warm coolant and wait as it may do it
again.
Check
for heat inside vehicle if warm replace coolant cap but keep an eye
on temperature gauge as the ~Air lock may have moved on from heater
matrix/core so proceedure needs to be carried out again from COLD.
If
persistent boil ups/over attention must made in the cylinder head
or
gasket area, or possibly water pump?
Please
press the Blue button to appraise my FREE Efforts, Thank You!
Paul
'W' U.K
Feel the hoses going into the heater on the firewall. If one is hot and the other is cool, then the heater control valve is not working for whatever reason. Check the flow valve.
The DCCV is located behind the radiator and low on the passenger side (US) subframe. It isn't too bad of a job if you have the necessary tools. A set of hose pinch-off pliers are very helpful so you don't need to drain the entire cooling system. You'll also find it a lot easier to replace if you put the car on jackstands and can work from underneath as well as from above.
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The water in the radiator must be hot. The hot water must flow through the heater hose to and through the heater core and back to the cooling system. Blockage in the hoses or an inoperative valve will prevent the heating. You might try loosening the return hose to verify that the water is flowing into the heater core and back out. Try this before everything gets too hot or disconnect the input and output hoses and blow compressed air through the system to be sure there are no obstructions. All switches and levers must be set to heat, and all valves open to permit hot water flow. Good luck. Hope this helps a little.
If both heater hoses are hot, then coolant is coming and going into/out of the heater core. The only thing that would affect heat would be a blend door not operating correctly. You will have to check the proper door that controls hot/cold air.
Could be a few problems causing this. Check to see if both heater hoses are hot going into and coming out of the heater core from under the hood. If both hoses are hot then there is an issue with the blend door/s inside the heater box assembly. If only 1 hose hot at the heater core and the other hose warm/cool you most likely have a heater core restriction and a back flush will be required. If no hoses are hot at the heater core then you have air in the system or the coolant level is low
When you released the cold end, it probably blew out some residue. Remove both hose from the engine and blow it out both ways with a water hose or air compressor. Add water each time, with air. Do this several times. I blow them into a box to see what comes out and when it stops coming out. This helps. Next would be replacing the heater core..All day job for me. I've done it. You have to remove the entire dash board and plenum.
CHECK FOR LOW COOLANT,NOT ENOUGH COOLANT IN THE SYSTEM.IF COOLANT LEVEL OKAY.THERMOSTAT NEED CHANGING STUCK OPEN.IF THERMOSTAT BEEN REPLACED.CHECK BOTH BOTH RADIATOR HOSES AND HEATER CORES HOSES THEY ALL SHOULD BE VERY HOT.IF ALL HOSES HOT AND BOTH HEATER CORES HOSES GOING INTO FIREWALL IS HOT.HEATER DOOR NOT OPEN ALL THE WAY OR STUCK.IF ONE OF THE HEATER HOSES GOING INTO FIREWALL HOT AND OTHER HEATER HOSE COMING OUT OF FIREWALL NOT HOT.MORE LIKELY HEATER CORE PLUGGED NEED TO FLUSH OUT COOLING SYSTEM.FLUSH OUT COOLING SYSTEM IF NOT BEEN DONE IN A LONG WHILE.
check to see if your hoses to heater core are hot on both sides. my 93 hoses where hot going in the heater core but not out. I flushed the heater core now I have heat
You need to check the heater core it has two hoses going to it feel of them if one is hot and the other cold heater core is stopped up replace it or flush it out if they are both hot it can be the switch or a vacuum line the vacuum line will be on the passenger side under the hood where the airconditioner hoses go in the body
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