Ice storm caused the doors to be frozen shut. When I finally got one of the rear doors open, I crawled into the front and kicked open the driver's side and passenger's doors. Now the latches are broken. Not sure if it's broken from the inside, outside or both. Since the latch won't work to keep the door closed, the interior lights stayed on. Pulled out the lightbulbs to break the circuit and hopefully not drain my battery. Any chance there's an (semi)easy fix to either the door latches or the interior lights? I've called an auto repair place but haven't heard back yet.

It says the tachometer wire is Yellow/Green, you do not have that listed. You will find it in the list below, it is highlighted..

WIRING INFORMATION 2001 Subaru Legacy

WIREWIRE COLOR LOCATION

12V CONSTANT WIRE WHITE Ignition Harness

12V IGNITION WIRE GREEN Ignition Harness

12V ACCESSORY WIRE YELLOW Ignition Harness

STARTER WIRE WHITE/BLACK Ignition Harness

POWER DOOR LOCK (-) WHITE Harness In Driver's Kick Panel

POWER DOOR UNLOCK (-) GREEN/RED Harness In Driver's Kick Panel

PARKING LIGHTS (+) ORANGE At Light Switch

DOOR TRIGGER (-) PINK/BLACK In White Connector Behind Fuse Box

TRUNK TRIGGER (-) YELLOW/BLUE In White Connector Behind Fuse Box

TRUNK RELEASE (5-wire) LT.GREEN/YELLOW At Motor In Tail Gate

FACTORY ALARM ARM (-) Factory remote only

FACTORY ALARM DISARM (-) Factory remote only

TACHOMETER YELLOW/GREEN At Ignition Coil

BRAKE WIRE (+) WHITE/BLACK At Brake Pedal Switch

HORN TRIGGER (-) RED/GREEN Harness At Steering Column

LEFT FRONT WINDOW UP BLUE/RED At Driver Window Motor Inside Door

LEFT FRONT WINDOW DOWN BLUE At Driver Window Motor Inside Door

RIGHT FRONT WINDOW UP BLUE/RED Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door

RIGHT FRONT WINDOW DOWN BLUE Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door

LEFT REAR WINDOW UP BLUE/RED Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door

LEFT REAR WINDOW DOWN BLUE Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door

RIGHT REAR WINDOW UP BLUE/RED Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door
RIGHT REAR WINDOW DOWN BLUE Harness In Driver's Kick From Driver Door

door lock actuator is at fault

Get a can of WD40 with a spray tube, stick the tube into the lock and spray the s..t out of it. Make sure your WD40 is nicely warm.

Broken exterior handles

The door gaskets could be frozen to the body, or you could have ice in the door latches.
Can you drive the car into a warm garage ?

driver side has most use and breaks down quickest.
Typically, the lock wears, and should be oiled using graphite powder, not oil, as with most outdoor locks.
However, in winter moisture turns to ice and freezes lock.
In this case, try to squirt lock de-icer (usually this is methyl alcohol or some other type).
Don't use an alcohol (such as from drugstore) that also contains water.
that would make matters worse.
If you spray enough lock deicer or even a high-quality penetrating oil, you may be able to work key and lock to a point where you can turn it.

Don't force key rapidly or too strongly, as it will bend, and may break off in lock.

You can spray some alcohol or penetrating fluid on the key to work it into the lock better.
Sometimes, you can get at a frozen lock mechanism by spraying down into **** between window and metal door from above lock.
Sometimes, you might find that the door itself is frozen,
or the lock latch is frozen, and not the key-tumbler.
In this case, you can try body-checking (not kicking) the door,
to loosen the frozen edges around door and window.
If you can get into car from other side, you can sometimes open it from inside to break ice-jam.

If this is an electrical problem (only remote doesn't work)
The likely cause is broken wire in wire-harness from car body to door.
There will usually be a group of wires either inside a cable or bundled in a rubber tubing, going from car to door at front between hinges.
Here is where the electrical connection will be broken,
because the wires break eventually as they get flexed over and over.

IN this case, the only permanent fix is to find the wire (it will be color-coded), and replace at least 6 inches of that wire (it will probably be broken inside insulating sheath.)
Alternately, there may be an open-circuit at connector to door-latch solonoid. Here you might get lucky if you get inside door-cover off and wiggle or re-insert the plug connector.
Also possible that solenoid is just burnt out or open-circuit.
In that case it must be replaced, for the remote signal to effectively open door lock.

try to pour hot water on it and get it open then clean window very well exspeciaally the rubbers or channels put a little prestone on a rag and go all around the rubbers and channel not on the glass then open and close and as well the doors you can do the same they shouldnt freeze tight

get a hair dryer or heat gun on the locks. WD40 will work eventually depends how deep the freeze is.

DRIVER OUTSIDE DOOR HANDLE WILL NOT OPEN DOOR. FROZE UP IN ICE STORM AND APPEARED TO BREAK WHEN TRIED TO OPEN DOOR. INSIDE HANDLE STILL WORKS. IS DIY REPAIR FEASIBLE?

If you can remove the inner door panel you will see a maze of cables running to the various locking points on the sliding door. If the cable going to the FRONT latch on the sliding door is broken (or in my case, simply dislodged inside the door) the door acts as if it is frozen shut.

The front cable is short, and easily replaced even by a newbie mechanic.