I have a 2000 AWD Chrysler Town and Country. I need to change the output shaft oil seal on the transfer case that goes to the prop shaft and to the back axle. Do I drop the prop shaft down and then remove the nut inside the cone that's on the end of the output shaft. Do I then withdraw the output shaft and replace the oil seal from the outside? Once done, I presume that I re-insert the output shaft and tighten the nut inside the cone, but what is the torque setting for it? Any thing else that I need to be aware of? Jeremy

Reference: 3.3/3.8L Fluid Capacities & Specifications - The ...

forum.chryslerminivan.net/.../12671-Reference-3.3-3.8L-Fluid-Capacitie...

May 8, 2009 - 10 posts - ‎2 authors
FLUID CAPACITIES Fuel (Approximate) - 20 US Gallons (76 Liters) Cooling System* 3.3 and 3.8 Liter Engines - 13.23 Quarts (12.5 Liters) NOTE: - *Includes heater and ...1996 Chrysler Town & Country LX [Always and forever the favorite.] ... Does anyone know what the transmission fluid capacity is?

1998 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY 3.3L 6-cyl Engine ...

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Amsoil

cv axle shaft output seal are bad

I assume you mean trans axle seals in front.
You have to remove the drive axles,best done on a lift,not in your driveway.
Trans fluid lubes the Diff,that is in trans.
ATF4 etc,whatever the fluid replaced the original spec, when it was new.

Input shaft speed sensor or output shaft speed sensor?

Go under the car and see if there is a drive shaft that goes to the back of the car.

The Anti lock Braking System (ABS) is a major component required to ensure safe driving. Don't try and repair it yourself, (unless your a qualified mecvhanic), take it to a certified mechanic or the dealer for repair.

I'm pretty sure the computer controlled NP-136 transfer case (which uses two speed sensors to sense the difference in speed between the front output shaft and the rear output shaft, and engages the front axle accordingly) was installed in 1998 and later models.

These trucks (mine included) use an "Active On Demand" transfer case. Basically its a normal 4x4 transfer case with a big electrically actuated (by way of a motor) clutch that connects the front prop-shaft (which is being spun by the wheels full time) to the transfer case front output. Its all in the transfer case.

Good luck and hope this help, check all the fuses and the wire harness to the encoder motor and replace the encoder motor if it has gone bad. Try bring it to a transmission shop that is familiar with the AWD system on your Bravada. The earlier years were a different system, 1998 was when the change was made. 1997 and earlier use the Borg-Warner 4472, which is always engaged with the use of the viscous coupling. Both were marketed as "SmartTrak" though.

Sounds to me like the transfer case actuator motor is either faulty or it is being told to be on all the time (which it shouldn't be).

it's not too bad to change, you will need a special tool to remove the crank pully, it looks like a 3 jaw puller and once you get that off the seal is right behind it. Make sure to clean the crank pully shaft that goes through the seal with a piece of emery cloth to prevent leakage and coat it with either transmission assembly lube or a small amount of motor oil to prevent a dry start that can damage the seal again

90 percent of the time stop leak does not work. Usually the seal between the transmission and transfercase goes out and forces all the fluid into the transfercase and leaks out the rear seal. Or the tranfercase or transmission breather could be plugged.

You may have pressure build up in the tranfer case and its going out the weakest spot which is the seals.Who changed the seals?Your transfer case may have a blocked breather if fitted