Is the ABS light on when the engine is running? You can't bleed this system if the light is on until you fix the problem and "home: it with a scan tool
SOURCE: hydraulic clutch 1995 chevy 1500 truck
I know you dont want to hear this but it sounds like the clutch plate is in backwards.
SOURCE: 1990 Ford Laser/Mazda 323 GTX with 3-channel Nisshimbo ABS
Compressed air should do it. Don't shoot yourself in the eye while attempting this. (Don't laugh, it happens a LOT)...accordianman
SOURCE: 93 chevy lumina the brake lines aren't getting fluid
you need to bleed the air out of all the lines and the master cylinder.
Air compresses where hydraulic oil won't. If there's air in the lines, you'll have a spongy or non-existent pedal pressure.
To bleed the brakes, have a supply of fresh brake fluid and a helper.
Then view this video....it'll make it very simple..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgxMfQUMdJY&feature=PlayList&p=55C1967DC174C1B7&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=3
SOURCE: 1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid
valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.
SOURCE: brake bleeding
if you didn't bleed the lines after putting the master in. then there is a good chance there is air in the lines now. may go through a quart of brake fluid before all the air is out. remember to start at r-rear/ l-rear/ r-front/ l-front last.will take some time. don't forget to adjust the rear brake while your there to help with the pedal
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