An axel might need to be fixed. what would the cost be?

This means there is a fault in the 4X4 electronic control system. The dealer needs to hook up a special scan tool to see what the fault is.

It's not worth it to fix the axel, it is wise to replace the axels
by jacking up the car secure the car with jack stands, then remove the wheels, the big center nut of the axel and the lower bolts on the ball joint, then pry the lower control arm down and pull the hubb aside. Now u could remove the axel easily, if stuck take a hammer and tap it lightly, remove it, replace with the new but make sure both ends r lubed with grease.

Yes I'm pretty sure its your CV Axle Or Right side upper or lower control arms could be also bent. Is this costly repair? Well it depends on the way you go about. had this happen to my Caprice about a month ago and it cost a Day In Junkyard Labor, and $350 for shop labor, because suspension isn't my forte! But, depending on location, no more than $700 for parts and labor! What year is your Cobalt if you don't mind me asking?

my 2003 had the same problem it turned out to be the shift selinoids, in the trans, shop wanted $700 bucks to fix,you need to see if it is the same problem and get fixed now before you cause damage to the trans. my son and i did them, it was quit a job and around $150 bucks cost (selinoids and fluid and there was a seal in the pan for the axel also,the pan gasket may be able to be resued its metal with ruber inserts) we had to drop the engine and trans cradle and remove the wheel and axel to get to the side trans. pan off and the selinoids only took 5 mins to change, and put back together,most of the labor was in time spent getting to them apart and back together,this solved the problem and trans has been fine ever since, ( FIRST thing we did ) changed trans fluid before we did the selenoids in hopes that would fix it but ti did'nt so we then did the above work after the fluid change just and added cost, i would take your car to a shop and see what they say first,my car did not show any codes when i had this problem,it now has 155,000 miles and no trans problems. hope this points you in the right direction.

Daewoo is'nt using any left hand threads on cars for sale in the USA. The front axel nut's are sussosed to be very tight, ( 250 Ft- Lbs ) I use a 3/4 in inpac air gun that has 1000 ft-lbs take off toque with the wheel still on the ground and the parking brake on with the wheels choclked. You can still get them off with a 1/2 breaker bar the correct socket and a pipe ( that fits over the handle of the breaker bar) and a sheadge hammer. On the drivers side of the car with the breaker bar parrleell to the floor and sticking out the front, put the pipe over the handle and pust down on the end and wack it hard where the handle is inside the pipe. once it turns it'll turn easy, so watch out! The axel will be stuck in the hub and may be very hard to get out. I use an high powered air chiscil with a pointed bit in the very end of the axel with only the axel nut removed with the wheigh of the car still on the ground, it'll push in about an inch with it all put together. Hopefully after it's moved some it'll be able to be pulled out. Remove the wheel and tire assembly and unbolt the lower ball joint. with it separted from the lower control arm the steering knuckle can be pulled away from the car and the axle pulled out of the knuckle while staying in the transmission. The ball joint part of the job needs to be done with both sides of the car jacked off the ground and supported well with jack satands. I ussally do both sides of the car for axels unless one has already been changed or money for the other axel is'nt available. If your just doing the job for yourself and you don't normally do car repair work, The cost of the tools that you only use to change the axel cost alot more than what you should pay to have the axels changed. I charge $100 to change both axels and $75 to change just one. I buy the rebuilt axels at my local auto parts store for $46 or new ones for $75 sometimes the new ones are cheaper in time as you just buy them straight out and theres no core charge and you just but them go home and put them on and go about you bussness.. It's easy to get hurt putting in axels as the car can fall on you. ( not useing good jack stands and a good hard level hard surface to work on. A good floor jack. a ball joint separterater. the correct axel scoket. The impac scocket and the powerful enough air gun to remove the nut, acess to compressed air to run the air tools. Really a lift to raise the car and hold it good enough that it does'nt fall and kill you. a large pry bar to pry the axel out of the transmission and a large hammer to beat the new axel into the transmission and the brawn and strengh to do all this heavy work.

most likely it will be just the bearing, unless someone has driven it this way for prolonged time in this case it might need other parts as well such as a new axel, or even a rotor. if it has been the case then the axel nut that holds the axel in the bearing has gotten so hot the chances of loosining it up will be verry slim and verry hard to remove, thus damaging the axel nut threads. if nit is this loose, I would expect to replace the bearing and the axel.

fror fixing the brakesw take the other rear wheel off and duplicate what u see. to get the axel out u must first remove diff cover in center of rearend then u will see a clip for each side axel remove clip and axel will slide out. good luck fron 1 to 5 being difficult its a 3

Poss damaged wheel, bad hub, bent lower spindel rods & will need four wheel alignment costly should call insurance company

The most cost affective is to replace the the axles with rebuilds from discount parts store.

you dont have a front axle on this you have control arms, this sounds like a costly repair i would just look to buy a new car. parts and labor could be 1500 to 3k easy