Welcome to FIxYa.com I hope i read the info you sent correctly that the brake light is staying on now? Ok if so check the brake light switch located at the brake pedal under dash( See Fig) and replace this switch. with a new one. Hi! My brake light (dashboard) started to flash - leedavidian_70.jpg/images/leedavidiHi! My brake light (dashboard) started to flash - leedavidian_69.jpgedavidian_70.jpg" class="h_mi" /> Thank you for using FixYa.com Regards, Lee Davidian
oh i am sorry dash brake light ok Check the master cylinder to see if brake fluid is low there is a sensor in there white round float it may have sunk see if it is up remove brake fluid cap and look inside.
Second check is to see if emergency brake switch is working disconnect it from switch see if light goes out.
Sorry about the mix up Let me know how it is going and if i can be more of help, Lee
also Check this out Image Fig. 7 Typical Pressure Valve & Brake Warning If the parking brake light is connected into the service brake warning light will flash only when the parking brake turned ON. The same light will also glow should one of the when the brake pedal is applied. To test the system, turn the ignition on and apply the light, inspect for a burned out bulb, disconnected socket, a the switch. Fig. 7 is an exterior view of a typical brake warning light switch is usually mounted on the left frame side rail or on To test the brake warning system, raise the car and open a helper depresses the brake pedal and observes the warning If the bulb fails to light, inspect for a burned out bulb, disconnected wire at the switch, If the bulb is not burned proven, replace the brake warning switch.
Light Switch
brake warning light system, the
is applied with the ignition
two service brake systems fail
parking brake. If the lamp fails to
broken or disconnected wire at
switch. The brake warning light
the brake pedal bracket.
wheel bleeder valve while a
light on the instrument panel.
disconnected socket, or a broken or
out, and wire continuity is
c
the Safety switch in the diagram also responsible for light to come on that is the switch you speak of? Sorry just came home from work please ask me anything and anytime , Lee
oh!!!! please bother me i love what i do and please check the Safety Switch when you said you apply pressure to brake light comes on and release break light goes off -Safety Switch is what i would check , Lee
then we will proceed on after Safety switch.
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You got brake troble and if your not a regular mechainic you need to get the help of one. You can check and see what's happening and sort of know that the mechanic is going to say. First check the fluild. While your at it this is an old car so check all the fluilds, Full is'nt required, but low and empty is bad. Look at the inside sides of all the tires as you might spot a leak if the fluild is low fill it back up and park it on a clean spot and pump the brakes and then look to see if anything has leaked on the ground. Brake lines can rust though and the car is old enought to do it about anywhere they go. Once you determine where the leak is you can tell your mechanic about it and he'll tell you what he charges to fix it. Once the light is one it won't leak much as theirs a safefty that keeps the brakes working and to keep all the fluild from leaking out. As the master cyclinder seems to have enough fluild the rear brakes may have come aprt or be too far out of adjustment. To see if this is the case stand outside the car with it in a quite place and have someone pump the brakes. It's not unusall to hear the brakes move in the back but not alot. Move the car on a sandy or gravel surface and stop hard and see which brakes are working the rears are likly out as the lines are long and more likly to rust out. If the car was tampered with the problem can be anywhere. Professional inspection is a good idea if your not a regular mechanic. Sure any jobs that you've done before and think you can do again correctly sure just doulde check any thing you do and be sure your right or have it checked by someone that knows.
That's not what's wrong with it. Maybe? The parking brake pedal also will turn the light on. Make sure it's all the way up. and that switch will fail too just unplug it it's connected to the pedal. The senser on the master cyclinder is a two wire unplug it and the light will be out the proportioning valve has a switch and if you unplug it the light will go out, It's on th e proportioning valve just under the master cyclinder. and the switch is on the side if this unplug turns the light out you need to fix the brakes and connect this wire. You need to pull the car forward on gravel and see that all the wheels are stoping the car. if nor fix the brakes the proportioning valver will cut out half the braking sysyem and fool you into running with just front brakes and in bad weather you'll crash. Parking brake switch is likly check it first.
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If your brakes feel spongy or tight in addition to the light then you may have an air bubble in the system, or a bad component such as Master cylinder, Caliper, brake line or wheel cylinder. If the fluid is contaminated or if it has been over 7 years since your last power flush of the brake system you may also have water in your brake fluid which could be caused by the bad component, bad gasket on the master cylinder or simply age if you've never flushed the system. If your brakes feel fine - no pulsing,pulling, or pushing sensations as you brake, then this could also be caused by a bad sensor. Your car is 21 and brake fluid can collect moisture as it ages. Power flushing the system would be a good move regardless and requires a special piece of equipment to do that a brake specialty shop would have ( like Meineke ) .If the light stays on after the flush with none of the above mentioned braking issues then your sensor is bad and will need to be replaced - a real possibility considering its age!!
Hope this helps and please rate my solution.
The brake sensor is located in the master cylinder. Some are changeable and others are not. If you look at the master cylinder you will see some wires going into it - that is the sensor that will need to be changed. To determine if your is replaceable, call your local auto parts store and seeif they have one available. The sensor sits below the fluid level and you will likely drain the master cylinder changing it, so have the new part ready to go in when you remove the old one and do the switch as fast as possible. If you drain the master cylinder too low you will need to bleed the air out of it before attempting to use the brakes, but if you can do the switch quickly you will just need to top off the cylinder before depressing the brake pedal.
Hope this helps!!
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c
Thanks...
Brakes feel fine and are working great. If I want to replace the switch, how do I go about that and where is it physically located?
Don
Sorry, but I do not know if my additional question reached you...
That question is, if I want to replace the sensor, where is it located and hoe can I do that?
Thanks,
Don
If I need to replace the brake dashboard light sensor in the 1989 Ford Crown Vic, where is it located and what do I do to accomplish that task.
Thanks,
Don
Thank you for the info received already. However, my question is put forth based on comments from my mechanic... I need to know where the brake dashboard light sensor (or actuator) is physically located and how I can replace it. Characteristics of the light going on or not leads to a possible problem with the sensor.
Thanks for your help...
Don
Lee,
Thanks for the response... I am slightly confused though. Are you thinking that my brake lights are the problem or is this how to fix the DASHBOARD "Brake" light is staying on and acting mysteriously?
Thanks again,
Don
Thanks again... This issue is probably taking too much of your time, but I will post one more note to see if you can isolate issue. I disconnected the parking brake switch and the dashboard brake light at first went out. For the next few hours, the brake light (on the dashboard that normally only lit if you had the parking brake on) would come on lightly when brakes were applied slightly hard. After that period, the brake light comes on and stays on as soon as I start engine and no longer goes off. Fluid is to proper level and brakes seem to be working fine.
I was told by one responder that I could remove the sensor that has 3 wires going into it on the side of the master cylinder and replace it. Is this a valid solution. As I had said, initially the light would come on periodically if I stepped heavily on brake, but then would go off after release. Then it would go on and stay on for about 5-10 minutes of driving. Then it would go off if I went in reverse and stopped the car. Again brakes seem to be working fine. I see no brake fluid leaking at any of the wheels or at master cylinder. All of this paragraph happened before I removed the light connection at the parking brake.
Again, thank you for your help. I will not bother you again...
Don
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