Hi if you have done the following to bleed the clutch.
1 open bleed screw
2 push pedal to floor and keep on floor
3 do bleed screw up
4 lift pedal
5 undo bleed screw
6 push pedal to floor
7 do bleed screw up
8 lift pedal up
you need to repeat this a few times but making sure the fluid level dont drop below the lowest level else you will get air in the system.
right now if you have done the above properly and you still either get the pedal going to the floor and staying their or you have no pedal at all then this points to their being a fault with either the clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder, now in most cases the one that fails is the master cylinder this is the one that is connected to the clutch pedal now its usually this one that fails and causes the pedal to go to the floor or have no clutch.
but it could also be the slave so bare this in mind, if the pedal comes back up after pushing it down then the chances are its the slave at fault and this is the one on the gearbox that operates the clutch arm.
let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok
plz rate this solution as i have a whole page of unrated posts, thanks
SOURCE: need step by step on how to bleed hydrolic clutch on a 1996 ford ranger
First remove the clutch reservoir top. Make sure the rubber stopper/bladder is in the cap when removed. Next locate the clutch line that goes into the tranny just aft of the bell housing. There should be a bleed screw, if so open it slightly. If no screw, than loosen the line where it attatches in. Next fill the clutch reservoir and watch till it leaks out on the tranny end. Once thats noticed, close the screw/line and recap reservoir. pump clutch pedal, and repeat bleed steps at least once more to ensure all air is out. remember to fill clutch fluid up to operating levels.
SOURCE: 1996 Ford Ranger XLT Clutch Bleeding
The problem is up at the Master Cyl............It comes ou of the firewall and points DOWN at about a 45 deg angle.....The reservoir is remote and the hose is set to the lowest point of the cyl...........The tube TO the slave is 180 deg around facing bottom...........
Take the master cly OFF the firewall.......tilt it so that both inlet and outlet are the HIGHEST point of the cyl........Gravity bleed or vacula the slave.........then reinstall the master
I know it sounds like a lot of work but it's the easiest way to clear the air out of Ranger/Explorer hydraulics
SOURCE: clutch sleeve
i just did one of these t the shop and they are very hard to do. system is difficult to work on and the slave cyinder is inside the transmission so i would tread carefully on this one if you are ot sure of what you are doing.
now if you are trying to flush the fluid the best way is to keep the cap off the master cylinder and keep the level up because if you let it run dry it will get air bound and when you open the bleeder it will come out very quickly. now the bleeder is on the drivers side of the transmission right above the hydraulic line going into the slave cylinder. have someone up top to keep adding fluid and someone under the truck to open and close the bleeder. when you have the bleeder open let the fluid run out until it looks clear like the new fluid you are putting in! tighten bleeder but not over tight and thats about it.
the bleeder screw is a 11mm and that's all you will need for tools!
if your pedal is soft when you try to use the clutch after doing this it is recommended by the manufacture when preforming a bleed of the system to pump pedal several times until it comes back up and to keep doing this until it is back up.
good luck
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