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From the ignition switch there is a yellow wire that is for the starter. probe it when trying to start. If you have no voltage replace the switch. Also, I believe there is a fusible link in the wire by the starter. It will be a different color than purple. Probe on the back side of it to see if there is voltage at start up. If so, replace with the smae color link.
I think the purple wire (or maybe the yellow) from the neutral safety switch goes to the coil side of the starter relay, turning it on so power is sent from there to the starter solenoid. You could check for this signal to the relay with a test light. The key must be held in start while you probe the other two terminals for the relay. If the signal is there, either a bad relay or the coil side of relay is not grounded properly. It is possible that the coil side ground is the neutral safety switch-grounding the relay's coil side only in park or neutral-in which case the nagging light on shifter (between off and run, it only works?) may be telling you the safety switch is the problem.
You may need to look at a wiring diagram, Greg. But the starter relay is the last component in the start circuit before the starter solenoid. From battery to ignition switch to "crank" fuse to neutral safety switch to starter relay to starter solenoid to starter-and back to battery through ground. That is the start circuit. Just that the wiring tying them all together makes it complicated.
Could be the module is fubar since you have B+ at the terminal. U can also install a hidden double pole switch that deactivates the fuel pump and ignition circuits. And if you want to be fancy you can do the same with a relay that opens those circuits automatically when ignition key is removed so you do not even have to throw a switch!
have you tried putting it in neutral and trying it. is your solenoid on the stater clicking, if not i would checkand make sure your nuetral safety switch isnt bad if it is clicking i would make sure the starter isnt hung up in the flywheel or could be a possibility the starter is bad
When you go to start the engine you are actually sending power from the ignition switch through a 20 amp fuse [crank fuse] then through the Park/Nuetral safety start switch and finally to the starter relay [located at the center rear of the engine compartment] This relay then sends a more powerful current flow down to the starter solenoid located on top of the the starter which then closes and allows full battery voltage from the large battery cable to energize and spin the starter. I don't think I've ever had to replace a starter relay on these but have replaced a large number of starters with bad solenoids and bad Park/nuetral switches. The "crank" fuse could also be bad but that is also pretty rare.
there is an interrupt switch, called neutral safety switch. When it fails or goes out of adjustment, no start, and essentially no protest or indication. Try foot on brake, shift to neutral, turn key to start and slowly move shifter out of nuetral in each direction. If starter actuates, look into switch adjustment.
im looking at that circuit , on the start relay on your radiator support , red is always hot via fusible link , purple to solenoid as you say , orange/black wire should be hot in run or start mode , if it is not the fuse for that wire is PCM/ABS 10 amp located fuse block in driver door jam , it does go through the nuetral saftey switch , the yellow wire going to the PCM must ground that relay to activate start mode . last note there is a PCM/CRANK fuse in the driver door jam also , 10 amp , if all this is good i would like to hear more . 1 more note about the nuetral saftey switch is the pink wire going in and the orange/black wire coming out should have continuity in park and nuetral ....let us know thanks
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