Engine knocking in front

how did you know its the wrong oil? quick engine rev up when knock occurs, possible conrod bearings. bur first, why wrong oil and how long/far engine was running/driving distance

take it to an accredited service shop that has experience on your make of engine and have a proper diagnosis done and quote
it is possible that there is a spinning main bearing and the test is a oil pressure test using a mechanical gauge
some times it spins , low oil pressure -knocking other times it stops and the oil pressure goes back up , knocking stops
should I be correct , normally it can be repaired in car by removing the sump and replacing that bearing shell, of the shaft is not damaged
i would steer away from a new engine or suggestions of a blown engine but it could be serious

Air inlet or outlet may be clogged, check air filter and catalytic converter, as possibles!

IS THE ENGINE REMAN OR SECONDHAND IT SOUNDS IT MAY HAVE RUN WITH OUT OIL, KNOCKING NOISE SEEM TO BE A BEARING KNOCK .WHAT I SUGGEST IS TO REMOVE ONE HT LEAD AT A TIME IF KNOCKING SOUNDS SOFTTER ON THAT CYLINDER THEN IS AS ABOVE

There are many possibilities that can cause car to make noise.

It's actually from where the noise is coming from. Front end or rear end. From engine area or from inside the steering or from brakes.

There is N-number of possibilities for the car to make knocking noise or any other kind of noise.

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For step by step troubleshooting this problem, I suggest you to refer the help links mentioned below. Its a complete solution with proper explanation to identify the cause of problem: ------

Click the link below: -----

CAR NOISE ISSUES
http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/11/car-noisesnoisy-cargrinding.html


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These will help.

Thanks.

Fixed.

Not related to the O2 sensor. Located on the front of the engine just above the starter KNOCK SENSOR (KS) SYSTEM DESCRIPTION

PURPOSE
The knock sensor (KS) system enables the engine control module (ECM) to control the ignition timing for the best possible performance while protecting the engine from potentially damaging levels of detonation. The ECM uses the KS system to test for abnormal engine noise that may indicate detonation, also known as spark knock.

SENSOR DESCRIPTION
The knock sensor (KS) system uses a flat response 2-wire sensor. The sensor uses piezo-electric crystal technology that produces an AC voltage signal of varying amplitude and frequency based on the engine vibration, or noise, level. The amplitude and frequency are dependant upon the level of knock that the KS detects. The engine control module (ECM) receives the KS signal through a signal circuit. The KS ground is supplied by the ECM through a low reference circuit.

The ECM learns a minimum noise level, or background noise, at idle from the KS and uses calibrated values for the rest of the RPM range. The ECM uses the minimum noise level to calculate a noise channel. A normal KS signal will ride within the noise channel. As engine speed and load change, the noise channel upper and lower parameters will change to accommodate the KS signal, keeping the signal within the channel. In order to determine which cylinders are knocking, the ECM only uses KS signal information when each cylinder is near top dead center (TDC) of the firing stroke. If knock is present, the signal will range outside of the noise channel.

If the ECM has determined that knock is present, it will ****** the ignition timing to attempt to eliminate the knock. The ECM will always try to work back to a zero compensation level, or no spark ******. An abnormal KS signal will stay outside of the noise channel or will not be present. KS diagnostics are calibrated to detect faults with the KS circuitry inside the ECM, the KS wiring, the KS voltage output, or constant noise from an outside influence such as a loose/damaged component or excessive engine mechanical noise.

Crank and cam make different noises when going bad, however if the crank is bad it will knock all the time even at idle. From what you told me it seems like the lifters are not making pressure, after all the car was sitting for 4 years. What you can do is to drain some of the engine oil about a quart, then fill it with some trans oil yep I said tranny fluid and let it run for about half an hour. This will wash out the lifters and hopefully take care of your problem. Oh, don't forget to drain and fill the oil again after noise goes away.

Move it to 3rd instead of drive and see if you still have the noise. May be transmission related since you have replaced everything else.

I would have to hear the sound to be sure. My guess would be possibly the starter gear is not disengaging fully. If it is a standard then I would probably say that it is your clutch bearing is not releasing, maybe clutch needs adjusting. If it is an automatic, The noise could be coming from the torque converter, they make noise just before they go. Listen underneath while truck is running and determine if the sound is by the oil pan, the starter or at the front of the transmission.