I'd use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. Also, see if pressure holds for a bit after you turn the key off. If the pressure drops like a rock, have to check for fuel pressure leak. Check the vacuum line on fuel pressure regulator, if it has gas in it, the pressure regulator is faulty. Just a thought, does your crankcase oil dipstick smell like gas? If so, either you don't change your oil and filter very often or you have a fuel leak. Could be your system is running very rich for some reason. You could have a leaking fuel injector. Sometimes the fuel pressure will drain back through the fuel pump. Any applicable trouble codes?
The basics for a rough idle is to check for a leak of some kind, fuel--egr--vacuum leak.
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SOURCE: Blazer runs rough when running at 45 to 55 mph
the problem was low transmission fluid. added half a quart and the problem went away.
SOURCE: i have a 1994 gmc safari.It seems to have a smooth idle at times
Im not sure if you got it fixed yet! It could possibly be idle air control valve. But here some more suggestions! I had a 94 Safari van 4.3 liter I was working on for about three days and I finally figured out what was wrong with it. It would run fine for a couple minutes and as soon as I hit the gas and let off it would surge, but anyways I ended up changing the distributer, after the fuel pump and filter, mass air flow sensor, egr valve, idle air control valve, map sensor, and ignition module. So that might sove the problem if you were on the same track with it as I was. Hope this helps ya!
SOURCE: have a 1997 ford thunderbird v8...started running
Light should have stored code. Go to local autoparts chain & get free scan for codes and go from there. Saves all that guess work & money a lot of times. Write down code(s) and let us know.
SOURCE: rough idle when warm and in gear, idle pulses slightly every now and then, check engine light is on
It sounds like the timing belt is off a tooth. Did you have it scanned to see what code was in the computer? These engines will surge when the cam timing is off.
SOURCE: when pushing the clutch pedal in or letting it out
This seems to be a common problem on both the new and the old TT (from looking at the forums, my MK1 did the same thing). You could be lucky and it could just be a build up of crud in the cylinder causing it to stick.
Alternatively the metal part where the slave cylinder connects to the pedal breaks, causing the pedal to stick to a gradually worsening degree until it finally sticks down (which is what happened to me on the motorway) and you wont be able to engage or disengage the clutch (if this does happen try pulling the pedal up with your foot an pumping it like crazy).
The cylinder is a reasonably simple job to replace but its incredibly awkward to get at and fiddly to do so it might take a few hours to do.
You should also be aware that it is possible that the master cylinder needs replacing, this is a pig of a job as it requires the transmission to be dropped out. I had all 3 done under warranty but prices would be an hour or so's labour for the first one, £200ish for the slave cylinder replacement, and £1000 for the master cylinder change.
I would be suprised if either cylinder has gone as its done so few miles but it is a known problem that has carried over from the MK 1.
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