Engine light comes on with code p1135 control fuel air metering. how do i fix this?

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I am 70 in February. I can help and I have a Lexus ES330. I will list the links to the codes. You are going to need a mechanic, but you can give them the list of what is needed.

P1354 LEXUS Code - Variable Valve Timing System ...

https://www.engine-codes.com > p1354_lexus
'What Does the P1354 LEXUS Code Mean? Variable Valve Timing (VVT) system controls the intake valve timing to proper timing in response to driving condition. The ...

P0191 LEXUS Code - Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit ...

https://www.engine-codes.com > p0191_lexus
'What are the Possible Causes of the P0191 LEXUS Code? · Faulty Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor · Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor harness is open or shorted · Fuel Rail ...

P1135 LEXUS Code - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit ...

https://www.engine-codes.com > p1135_lexus
'What are the Possible Causes of the P1135 LEXUS Code? · Faulty Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 · Air-Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 harness ...

P1153 LEXUS Code - Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response ...

https://www.engine-codes.com > p1153_lexus
'What is P1153 LEXUS code meaning? ... The Air-Fuel ratio (A/F) sensor varies its output voltage in proportion to the air-fuel ratio. Based on the output voltage, ...

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just take off battery lines from battery pole for 15 minuts ...then ligth turn off

Air flow Sensor

Code p1135 is a code for an Air/Fuel sensor (oxygen sensor). Bank 1 sensor 1. IT comes up when their is a problem with air/fuel mixture in the engine. It would be anything from a blocked air cleaner, faulty or fouled spark plugs to a blocked exhaust pipe/catalytic convertor. I would get these checked out, and if they are all fine the sensor its self or sensor circuit may have failed, requireing replacement. With your low miles, hopefully this maybe covered under warranty if it is the sensor.

The P1135 code on your Toyota is Air fuel ratio sensor - heater circuit malfunction. Basically the problem there will be with the air/fuel ratio sensor (on other vehicles it is refered to as an O2 oxygen sensor), or the wiring/connectors leading to it. It could also be a problem with a fuse or relay on the heater circuit. Again, not a real difficult problem to solve.

just fixing the P1135 code will not cause the check engine light to stay off because there are other unrelated codes. If the code P1135 was causing the other problems then perhaps fixing that code would fix the others, but that's not the case here. The reality is you'll need to have all the problem areas looked at (IAT sensor, MAF sensor, Air/fuel ratio sensor) and repaired in order for your engine light to stay off. Normally if there are codes stored a vehicle cannot pass inspection. I would get a second opinion from another local mechanic as what you've been told may not be 100% correct.

Good luck.

P1135. Air/Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response. (Bank 1 Sensor 1).

The P1135 code on your Toyota is Air fuel ratio sensor - heater circuit malfunction. Basically the problem there will be with the air/fuel ratio sensor (on other vehicles it is refered to as an O2 oxygen sensor), or the wiring/connectors leading to it. It could also be a problem with a fuse or relay on the heater circuit. Again, not a real difficult problem to solve.

Now, to specifically answer your question. I'm not familiar with the inspections in New Jersey, however just fixing the P1135 code will not cause the check engine light to stay off because there are other unrelated codes. If the code P1135 was causing the other problems then perhaps fixing that code would fix the others, but that's not the case here. The reality is you'll need to have all the problem areas looked at (IAT sensor, MAF sensor, Air/fuel ratio sensor) and repaired in order for your engine light to stay off. Normally if there are codes stored a vehicle cannot pass inspection. I would get a second opinion from another local mechanic as what you've been told may not be 100% correct.

Good luck.

oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor 1
do you have a 6 cylinders engine?
this sensor is on the rear bank ( next to the fire wall ) before the cat

Not sure where you got that definition for that code but this is what it is and means with possible causes for whichever motor you have:

Trouble Code: P1135 (2.4L L4 VIN - Auto)
A/F Sensor-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction Print this code data
Number of Trips to Set Code: 2
OBD II Monitor Type: CCM Details
Indicators: MIL Details

• CCM Details
• MIL Details

Trouble Code Conditions:
Engine started, engine running, and the PCM detected the A/F Sensor-11 (A/FS-11) heater current was less than 0.25A, or that it was more than 8.0A at anytime during the CCM test.

Possible Causes:

• A/F sensor heater circuit or ground circuit is open
  
• A/F sensor heater power circuit is open
  
• A/F sensor heater is damaged or has failed
  
• PCM has failed
  

2001 Toyota Highlander - I4 - P1135, P1155


Trouble Code: P1135 (3.0L V6 VIN - Auto)
A/F Sensor-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction Print this code data
Number of Trips to Set Code: 2
OBD II Monitor Type: CCM Details
Indicators: MIL Details

• CCM Details
• MIL Details

Trouble Code Conditions:
Engine started, engine running, and the PCM detected the A/F Sensor-11 (A/FS-11) heater current was less than 0.25A, or that it was more than 8.0A at anytime during the CCM test.

Possible Causes:

• A/F sensor heater circuit or ground circuit is open
  
• A/F sensor heater power circuit is open
  
• A/F sensor heater is damaged or has failed
  
• PCM has failed
  

2001 Toyota Highlander - V6 - P1135

P1135 bank 1 sensor 1 is your air/fuel sensor upstream (between manifold and engine on the passenger side). It cost about $179 at most reputable auto parts store. You'll want to run the engine for two minutes before attempting to take off the nuts also be careful not to touch the manifold as it will be hot (use a 12mm box end wrench and or a pair of needle nose vise grips or lastly a dremel tool to grind them off). unplug the old sensor plug the new in and install. pull your positive cable off your battery for 5 minutes and then re-connect. your check engine light should be gone. allow your truck to idle for a few minutes and then take a drive. good luck!