When I crank my car it idles up to 2 and stays there no matter what. Like it's idle too high. I changed the air flow censor, air filter and I still have the same problem. Wat else could it be?

There are a few possible reasons why your 4M41 2003 model might be cutting and idling high after 5 minutes. Clogged fuel filter: The fuel filter removes impurities from the fuel before it enters the engine. If the fuel filter is clogged, it will restrict the flow of fuel to the engine, which can lead to a variety of problems, including cutting and idling high. Bad spark plugs: Spark plugs are responsible for igniting the fuel in your engine. If the spark plugs are bad, they will not be able to ignite the fuel properly, which can lead to a variety of problems, including cutting and idling high. Low compression: Low compression can also cause a variety of problems, including cutting and idling high. Compression is the force that pushes the piston down in the cylinder, which is necessary for the engine to run properly. If the compression is low, it will be harder for the pistons to move, which can lead to a variety of problems, including cutting and idling high. Clogged injectors: Fuel injectors deliver fuel to the engine in a fine mist. If the injectors are clogged, they will not be able to deliver the fuel properly, which can lead to a variety of problems, including cutting and idling high. Mass air flow sensor: The mass air flow sensor measures the amount of air entering the engine. If the mass air flow sensor is faulty, it can provide the wrong information to the engine's computer, which can lead to a variety of problems, including cutting and idling high. Throttle body: The throttle body controls the amount of air that enters the engine. If the throttle body is dirty or malfunctioning, it can restrict the flow of air to the engine, which can lead to a variety of problems, including cutting and idling high. If you are experiencing these symptoms, it is important to have your vehicle diagnosed by a qualified mechanic to determine the root cause of the problem. Once the cause of the problem has been identified, the mechanic can recommend the necessary repairs. Here are some tips to help prevent these problems from happening in the future: Change your fuel filter according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Change your spark plugs according to the manufacturer's recommendations. Keep your engine clean and well-maintained. Avoid running your vehicle on low fuel. If you notice any problems with your vehicle's performance, have it checked out by a qualified mechanic as soon as possible.

9 times out of 10 your problem is going to to be with the MAF Sensor. You changed it, was the old one bad? If not try putting the old one back in. If you bought an aftermarket MAF and didn't replace with an OEM MAF, that could also be your problem. Recheck to make sure it's seated correctly, check the wire connection.
Unless the stickers have been removed, you should have a vacuum line diagram under your hood.
Here are what you should check from top to bottom.

• A clogged, stuck, or leaking fuel injector
• Faulty fuel regulator
• Dirty or faulty mass air flow sensor
• Faulty coolant temperature sensor
• Faulty thermostat
• ECM needs reprogramming
• Dirty or faulty oxygen sensor
• Vacuum leak
• Fuel delivery problem
• Incorrect fuel pressure

if it idles "rough" in conjunction with problem mentioned then try changing electrical components like plugs and wires and could also be partially clogged fuel injector with carbon build-up

BAD SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES,INTAKE MANIFOLD VACUUM LEAK.STUCK OPEN EGR VALVE OR FAULTY IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE.HAVE VECHICLE SCANNED FOR IDLE SPEED CONTROL FAULT CODE, FAULTY EGR VALVE FAULT CODE, AND BAD FUEL INJECTOR.REASON I SAY SCAN VECHICLE FIRST BECAUSE EVERYTHING COULD BE GOOD AND YOU COULD BAD GASOLINE CONTAMINATED WITH WATER.BUY A LOT OF NEW PARTS WILL ADD UP.

I think you may be on the right track. If the timing is too far advanced, the engine can overheat. The computer uses the crank sensor input to time the engine. Let us know if it still over heats with the new crank sensor in.

Have the fuel pump pressure tested,also,check out the idle air control.

This probably is the mass air flow censor located just behind the air cleaner in the metal part of the throttle body. Wiggle the connector if it stumbles or shuts off the connection inside the censor is bad. You will need to replace the censor.

bad ignition,air flow sensor that keeps leaning out the mix and it stalls,bad iac idle control motor,start with a good tune up.cap rotor,wires plugs air filter and clean the throttle body.some honda cars have bad egr valves and the intake manifold has to come apart because it is plugged up inside with carbon.

i had the same problem, much money spent for nothing, it ended up being the temperature sensor on the side of the block, advance auto, had the part for 10 bucks,

I had a simular problem on my car, but it is'nt a Pontiac, it's an Mazda 323. I solved the problem to be that the Idle air control valve was dirty, and therefore sticking. This caused the engine to idle eratically and sometimes stall. Sometimes it would even stall whilst changing gear.
On most cars the idle air valve is located at the top of the engine, normally near the air filter. And to be honest is very easy to service. It's just a matter of disconnecting and cleaning it with carburetter cleaner.
You probably know this already lol, I'm not sure if you mean this when you say sensor. Hope this was of some help! :)