My driveshaft boots is broken. I have disassembled the axel side of the driveshaft but when I tried to disassemble the CV joint I couldn’t find how to do it. Can somebody give me advice about it?Thanks to everybody
I have done CV joints here at my home garage for yrs, I recently did my 02 Esteem 1.8, I have a pic of the joint completely disassemble, and I mean as far as you can disassemble it. There are basically 3 types of joints, the rezeppa, which is the outer, the tripod and double offset joints are used on the inside.
The only tools needed are a large brass hammer, a vise, snap ring pliers, and CV boot clamp pliers.
You can remove both types of inners without special tools, the shaft has an external snap ring to hold on the race. The outer requires a vise and a large brass hammer, you hold the sahft in the vise, hold and pull on the joint and hit it close to the shaft, it has a circlip like the one used in the transmission, you have to "overcome" this clip. Then you simply turn the cage so to expose each ball out of the shell, and pluck it out, then rotate the inner race sideways and manauever it out, then the cage the same way.
The inner depends on what type, the tripod type come right out once the boot is removed, the double offset type is similar but it has a large circlip which can be plucked out with a small pick, it is a very weak clip. Then the cage and ball will litterally fall apart in you hands.
Clean and degrease all parts.
Assembly is a snap, the outer one goes on first, once the cage and balls are in the shell, and greased, put the shaft in and push down while working the clip smaller until is collapses enough to fit in the groove of the shaft, then tap it on down, the clip will emerge inside the joint and snap out to full size again. Again this exactly the same principle used on the stub that goes in the tranny.
The inners are just assemle in reverse order. Install the inner race, or tripod,depending on which one you have, then the balls and outer race, push it in the sheel (tulip), install the large circlip making sure the gap fall in between a ball race, then fasten the boot.
Oh yes, to get the shaft off, leave the car on the ground, pop off the hub cap, get a large 1/2 dr breaker bar or ratchet and 30mm socket, put on the E-brake, then put the bar on the nut and turn it, you may have to use your foot, then raise up the car, remove the wheel, the caliper, 12mm, the strut to knuckle bolts, 17mm, the tie rod, 14mm, use a jaws puller, push on the joint shaft and hit on the hole part with a hammer, don't hit the rubber boot, then remove the brake hose clip, hang the calip on the strut, pull the knuckle away while you push the CV shaft out, then hit the inner with a brass hammer to overcome the clip. On double offset type you can just give it a yank and most times it will pop out.
Good luck.
Use a small punch about 1/8 in and tap the metal in.
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I had the same problem on my 2000 Suz, Est 1.8L. Finally I gave up. I put back the tire and the disk brake back on, Very important, since I caught the torn boot soon after it happened, instead of driving I towed the car to the mechanic for 60$. When you take the car to the mechanic also bring two universal C.V. boots . I got one from O'Reiley for ~14$. Bring two such boots so is easier on the mechanic, doesn't have to order them and wait for them to come. Also buy CV joint lubricant. If you are lucky, and have not heard a ratteling sound in the joint while turning corners before discovering the torn C.V. boot, he may simply have to just change the greas after hosing off with air under pressure the old junk. Have him if the joint is still fine ( no sand in between ) to also change the C.V. boot on the side toward the engine, after removing the C.V. axel. Don't do this last procedure by yourself. It is almost impossible for a mechanic at home conditions. Must be done in a shop. Have him change both boots since the life expectancy of those things, according to the manual is 120k miles. Second don't touch anuthing concerning the C.V. joint without having from a manual the torque specifications for the different bolts. If you have those specifications and know for certain how to use a torque rench, after the mechanic is done you can only try to bring the bolts chat connect the c.v. axel to the struts (the thing with the big spring) , or at least inspect them after some driving cause one of my bolts there was kind of loose from the mechanic, yet eth new c.v. boot was placed perfectly.
So, take two c.v. boots c.v. joint grease take the car tothe mechanic and have him change both.
Please don't mess with that stuff yourself , I have a very expensive original manual for the car (there is no single one from Chilton on themodel) it is vague , not only on this but also on other topics. Apparently the style of writing is more oriented toward the mechanic than to the ordinary person (like me)
I tried to replace a CV axle last year. I ended up just making it worse. I took it into a shop and they fixed it up. I wish I would have done that the first time. http://nationaltransinc.com
I can not get the nut off the out side end of the shaft. there in some
sort of bent in nut thing on it. I'm going to drill it away so that I
can remove the nut. dose any know how I should go about bending the new
one in.
thank you
CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken to ensure that the pry bar does not damage the transaxle case, the transaxle oil seal, the front wheel driveshaft and joint, or the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331). CAUTION: When the LH and RH front wheel driveshaft and joint assemblies are removed, Transaxle Plugs T88C-7025-AH must be inserted to prevent the differential side gears from becoming mispositioned. If the gears become misaligned, the differential will have to be removed from the transaxle to align the gears. 4,381 views
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I can not get the nut off the out side end of the shaft. there in some sort of bent in nut thing on it. I'm going to drill it away so that I can remove the nut. dose any know how I should go about bending the new one in.
thank you
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