03 intrepid not charging new alt pcm battery all connections good .power up field wire charges ok?

Hotrod, Recheck,clean and tighten all connections. If you say you had new alternator tested and is working OK, the new battery must be defective. With the van running, use a DVO meter and check the battery, if it shows above 14 volts then the alternator is OK, a good battery should show 12.4, that leaves either a faulty battery not holding a charge or you have a parasitic draw(something draining battery). Which would have to be diagnosed by a good Tech.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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ok that is NOT a battery light, its a CHARGE light!
it comes on and means the battery is not CHARGING.
(the pcm knows this for a fact, in fact IT turned the lamp on.... a key fact.)
any shop can measure the voltage and tell you that in 5 min flat.
he'd

1. open hood, measure battery, ah, 11vdc. so he jumper starts engine. it starts (cables removed now)
2. the meter back to battery terms, and its not 13.3 to 15vdc.
3. he saw 11v. running. oops. that is WRONG.
4. so he now knows the alternator is bad, or the alternator hates the battery,(can happen)
5. on ours we can hot wire the alternator to see it go full on, this is called FULL FIELDING and ALT, i dont teach you that, because you will hurt yourself or car.
6. The PCM on many cars runs the alternator, in fact there is on inside alt, regulator the PCM does that. so can be bad.
7. if you had before tested your old battery it would have passed.
8. if you had tested the old alternate (free in any auto store) it too would have passed, (now they are new) so that leaves wires and and last PCM bad.
9. your pcm pin C1-8 conrols ALT pin 2. field . at all times.
10. that wire is dark green.
11. the alternator is very tricky here( pcm brain side) it will drop the battery charging off line if the battery cables are bad. or any wires related to battery cables, grounds or bad wiring on rear of ALT.
12. the Same is true if the PCM thinks the battery is shorted or open or has insane internal high resistance. (bad batteries)
13. for current overload, and for OVER VOLTAGE.
14. that is about it. there is more, but that is all covered in you missing FSM.

95 GC (this car the ENGINE PCM/ECU controls charge at all times.)
this year, the alternator is not a Standalone ALT> no internal reg.
my CHARGE lamp is on, is it? ah, Check battery above is not a verb its a lamp glowing. gotcha.
The system is called that a charging system
you connect any any voltmeter to the car battery
it must read 13.3 to 15v. running or the charge system is in failure mode.
top reasons,
1: bad batteries, yes, the Alternator reg, might just give up on a bad battery and just not attempt to charge it. so try that first. and the'
battery is the #1 failure on all cars...
corroded battery terminals or cable or alternator not grounded do to corrosion.
2: Fuse 6 or 8 blown in the PDC, both 60amp huge fuses.
3: bad wiring. bad connections to any of the alternators 5 connections.
5: the ASD relay can kill the ALT field current. as can the PCM.
6: bad ALT.
7: bad PCM.at pin C141.

i recommend (DIY) the FSM tests. or alldata.com .

there are test on car for each type failure.
id start with battery.

there are only 3 parts. but the causes are 25 or more.
1: belt missing slipping,
2: engine rpm below 800 RPM (lots of ways ,ask )
3: ALT had.
4: wiring to ALT bad.
5: bad battery or its connections, (wires)
6: bad fuse. see fuse link a11? on fFM page 20?
7: car is PCM alt controlled, it can be bad too. see 2 field wires on ALT and PCM on page 20? below?
8: battery temp sensor bad. making PCM think battery overheats.
the fSM covers all tests above.

pick car here, then pick charging.
5 alternators used on the 5 diffr.engines. got the wrong one?

the see wiring diagrams at end and chapter 20 inside, charge.
pdf page 118 for gas engine, if diesel next few.

stock car YJ ? , or all hacked up. (old cars get hacked)
2.5 or 4.0 liter engine? still have a real jeep alternator not upgraded?

loss of electrical power (first rule, we never need to guess.!!!)
not with a voltmeter. (tool that costs $20 )
alternator good (by what means, autozoned?) ( we can find out one car)
but low on gauge. what gauge in dash voltmeter.? sure...
i think you car has no charge lamp only the dash VM.

own an volt meter? a DMM? hand volt meter?

1: if the alternator charge lamp is stuck on driving.
2: is battery voltage at 13.3 to 15vdc with engine at 800 RPM idling
alternator belt not slipping, for sure.....???
if the battery voltage is near 12.5v and falling running that is
an Alternator system failure, note i said, system. !!!

this is first. if we get to here. we can find the real cause.
test 3:
is the charge lamp on keyon, and goes out running?
make sure the big fuse for the alternator in the engine bay fuse
box is not blown, 50amp?

I have no 95 FSM and my online source sucks for 95

Alternator dead: (alt good)
1: belt slipping . engine at 300rpm, nah.
2: fuse blown, the big one. (engine bay fuse box)
3: ;wrong alternator, there are many, most others will fail, even good ones.......
4: alternator ground bad. (end to end, to battery minus)
5: bad wiring to same. bad connections, any to battery or alt.
6: some jeeps the PCM has the field regulator, see link below.
ECU pin 20 , is field pin, it is on 95, 4.0L (engine not stated)

is the CEL lamp on, and throwing code 41 DTC?, alt, field errors?

the alt has 4 pins, battery, field,ground and voltage sense.
The reg is in the PCM. and if bad is a bad $3 transistor..
see same form for fix for that issue..

i think this is same as your. 1996 is big change year.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/1993-wrangler-pcm-ecu-ecm-pin-out-diagram-1170004/


you can test the alt, PCM wire pulled !, by full fielding the alt.
grounding the field term, no wires on field pin of alt.
see FSM for details on that.
The PCM modulates the field pin to control charge at all times.

the alternator gets power on big wire battery voltage the wire runs to starter, fuse box .alternator fuse goes to automatic shut down relay to relay control in ecm/pcm the field wire comes from ecm /pcm to alt.other field goes back to automatic shut down relay back to charge battery . if not charging at alt. try new alt. and retest.

You may have a a/c voltage leak comming from the alternator..If its a rebuilt alternator sometimes you get a bad one ..But make sure all your connections are good ecspecially the small wires coming out the back ..These are the field and sensor wires..Plus make sure all your grounds on the vehicle are not broken or missing..You can have good voltage but it may have a drop going to the computer because of a ground and cause the light to come on

posibly a corroded contact to earth or a fault in wireing harness?

1) check 10A fuse in the batt. juction box (eng. comp.) hot at all times.
2) check the large red battery wire to the alt. for good conn.
3) make sure the alt. is grounded properly
4) gray wire sent from the alt. to the PCM
5) blue wire sent from the PCM to the regulator (alt.)
6) small red wire power frorm the 10A fuse
if all checks out and still not charge replace the alt.

Do you have an alternator with 2 field connections and one power output connection and a separate regulator?
If you do,with the engine running,remove the connection from the regulator and jump across the 2 connections in the wire harness,this will give you full field and the alt should show a charge,use a voltmeter on the battery and watch for an increase in voltage.If voltage increases,the regulator is bad or the reg ground is bad.(try cleaning the mounting bolt areas before replacing it)If no increase in voltage,remove the 2 field connections from the alt and ground one and apply battery voltage to the other with the engine running.You should see an increase in voltage if the alt is good.I am assuming you have battery voltage at the alt power output connection at all times?