1998 Mercury Sable Logo
Posted on Oct 26, 2010
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I have 1998 Mercury Sable DOC. I have some vibrating in the front end, I have had bearings, ball joints, brake pads, rotors, calipers, tie rod ends replaced and the vehicle still shakes. I notice it more when I am going right around a corner, the left front wheel shakes and can be felt in my steering wheel. Please help running out of solutions and feel like the mechanics are taking me for a ride!

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Anonymous

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  • Master 4,793 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 26, 2010
Anonymous
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This is something that,after all youve done will really **** you off if it works.........try changeing wheels/tyres front to rear.OR as the car leans over to the left when turning right,you put pressure on the left side,could it be the right shocker gone......?(push down hard then release,it should bounce up then down and then up/stop.this,if it works, costs nothing....... yet.

Duane Wong

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  • Mercury Master 6,826 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 26, 2010
Duane Wong
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OK, I would change the tires if I had vibrating in the front end after all of that work.

Have the wheels/tires spin balanced in the front and have the tire tech check for out of roundness as it spins on the electronic balancer.

I wouldn't be surprised if the tires were out of round.

I usually recommend Goodyear or Michelin tires with an A traction and A or B Temperature rating and a long treadlife warranty (60,000 mi. or above) to get a rock solid feel in the front end at all speeds.

I just solved such a problem on my 1997 Cadillac Deville Limousine which had used Goodyear Integrity tires and replaced them with new Goodyear Assurance Tires which solved a front end and general body vibration at highway speeds.

Good luck on getting new tires for your vehicle, and hope the shakiness goes away!

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I had a front wheel bearing fail. I want to repair the vehicle and make it reliable. It has approximately 180,000 miles on it.

Sounds like you have it all.Plus have the front end aligned after you install everything.Also check air pressure in tires.
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Replace cv joints

Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.
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Vibration in braking system on 530d checked out all good discs and pads replaced. DSC light coming on is this the problem?

generally vibration in the brakes is cause by warped rotors. The cause of warped rotors could be over tightening the lugnuts, or excess heat due to a currently stuck or previously stuck caliper.

Vibration can also be noted in the brakes due to faulty tie rod ends, ball joints and wheel bearings/hubs. Tires can also cause a vibration in the brakes, but normally you will feel it more when driving at certain speeds.

Finally in some unusual cases vibrations while braking have been traced back to the transmission and it's related components. This is fairly uncommon though.
1helpful
1answer

My car is shaky every time i hit a stop light?

you should keep all four tires on the ground !!!! LOL ! your rotors or brake pads are bad. do you feel it shake in the steering wheel ? Check these three items and im sure it will fix.......1) jack front car up and try to move front tires in all directions, does it feel loose at all? if yes check tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints. 2) check brake pads for wear, heat from pads warp the rotors and cause the break pedal and steering to shake or vibrate. 3) If nothing can be found wrong with the tie rods or ball joints i recommend changing the rotors and brake pads, a pretty cheap fix.
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I have a grinding noise coming from my front left tire! Sounds like the front end is gonna fall out from under the truck. Could that be ball joints, tie rod ends? When it makes this noise it feels like the...

Sounds like the noise is a bad bearing to me. If the ball joints or tie rod ends were bad, you would have irregular steering or in an extreme case, the front end would fall apart and you would lose steering abilities.
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I am currently changing front pads and think i should pack the wheel bearings but don't know how. its not covered in the haynes manual i got

Here I have the Step by Step :

Wheel and tire assembly Brake caliper and secure it out of the way with a piece of mechanic-s wire. Do not let the caliper hang on the hose. Brake rotor Halfshaft retaining nut and discard it Cotter pin and castellated nut from the tie rod end and separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using a suitable removal tool. Discard the cotter pin. Separate the tie rod end from the wheel knuckle ABS sensor bolt and the sensor, if equipped Strut mounting nuts and the studs which attach the strut assembly to the steering knuckle Strut from the steering knuckle Lower ball joint pinch bolt. Carefully pry down on the lower control arm to separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Wheel hub, knuckle and bearing assembly from the vehicle

Please Rate, Thank you
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Clunk or rattle in front end purchased car new never smashed only happens when you hit bumps

You should check your front end, ball joints and tie rod ends for play. To do that jack the car up and set in on blocks so the front wheel hangs free. Grab the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 and try to move it in and out. If the wheel moves you have a bad ball joint, a helper to watch while you move the wheel will tell you upper or lower. Do the same at 9 and 3 to check tie rod ends. Again movement will indicate a bad tie rod. Check for inner or outer. Look at your shocks for signs of leakage. Aleaky shock could also make a clunk.
If everything appears to be tight then remove a wheel and look at your brakes, A loose caliper, pads flopping. Pads should only move in and out to the rotor and the caliper shouldn't move by hand. Hope this helps.
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I am trying to get the wheel assembly apart to change the front bearings on a 1996 mercury villiger

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

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Item Part Number Description 1 — Cotter Pin 2 — Nut Retainer 3 1131 Insulator 4 3B477 Front Axle Wheel Hub Retainer 5 1195 Front Wheel Outer Bearing Retainer Washer 6 1104 Wheel Hub 7 1107 Lug Bolt 8 3K050 Snap Ring 9 3123 Front Wheel Bearing 10 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield 11 3130 Front Wheel Knuckle

Wheel Hub, Wheel Knuckle and Wheel Bearing SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A
Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel (1007) and tire assembly.
  3. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the front brake hose (2078).

    Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) and suspend it with mechanic's wire out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 for the removal procedure.
  4. Remove the front disc brake rotor (1125).
  5. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
  6. Remove the nut retainer and insulator.
  7. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) and the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195).




  8. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050).
  9. Loosen the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut until it contacts the front wheel driveshaft joint.


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  10. Strike the front wheel knuckle with a hammer while pulling down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) until the front suspension lower arm ball joint separates from the front wheel knuckle.




  11. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut.




  12. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint from the front wheel knuckle.
  13. Remove and discard the cotter pin.




  14. Remove the tie rod end nut.




  15. Use Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A to separate the tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle.




  16. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor bolt.




  17. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts.




  18. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  19. Remove the front shock absorber (18124) from the front wheel knuckle.
  20. Use 2-Jaw Puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent, to separate the front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B436) from the front wheel knuckle.
  21. Remove the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly from the vehicle.
  22. If necessary, match mark and remove the steering stop bolt and steering stop bolt jam nut from the front wheel knuckle.




Installation
  1. Position the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly on the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
  1. Install the front wheel knuckle into the front shock absorber.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts. Tighten the front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts to 113-123 Nm (83-91 lb-ft).

1helpful
1answer

Replace left front spindle 2x4

Jack the car up, pull the wheel, take off the brake caliper and the rotor. Take both ball joint nuts off. Take one tie -rod end nut off. You need a ball joint separator tool and a sledge hammer. Inspect your ball joints and tie rod end while your at it. It's about a 2 hour job or so. Good luck! Phil
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