Changed out nearly entire brake system (Pads, rotor, caliper, booster, brake line) Brakes have been bleed. STILL no brakes (or should I say...after bleeding them, I have brakes but after car sits for a while...no brakes again!)

There are at least 2 items that will cause your problem. The first is when you changed the pads you place the caliper in a different place on the support pins that the caliper slides on to centralise the brakes on the rotor. These mounting pins are prone to rusting up and actually keeps one pad on the rotor as the caliper cannot centralise during brake application. The second is a problem that occurs when the brake fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir from pushing the piston back into the caliper. Muck in the lines is pushed back into the compensating ports in the Master cylinder causing the brakes to drag and build up pressure from the heat generated by having the brakes on. Try flushing out the brake system using metholated spirits or replace the master cylinder

Did you replace the lines when doing all the work, the lines are the cheapest part of it all

bleed the brakes again starting form the longest line back to the shortest
if you have been getting a pulsing feeling at the pedal under normal brakes you have warped rotors that need replacing or machining
under normal brakes the abs is not effective and it is only under sever brakes that you will experience the pulsations at the pedal

Brake pads, rotors, and boosters do not cause brakes to fade. They also do not cause the light to come on. Hydraulic leaks cause brakes to fade and also the light to come on. Check all of your brake lines and fittings for leaks. Check also the calipers and/or wheel cyliders for leakage. If you cannot find any external leaks and you are not losing any brake fluid, then the problem is caused by an internal leak in the master cylinder or (if you vehice is equipped with antilock brakes) the antilock control module

The problem is not the booster, the job of the booster is to make braking easier. If the booster went out the brakes would be hard to press.
Your soft pedal is likely due to air in the brake lines. Bleed the brakes and go from there.

Disk brakes are automatically self adjusting. If you have too much travel in the pedal, bleed the brakes. Let us know if you need the procedure.

So long as the brake booster is working, test it by turning on the engine, press the brake pedal all the way down, then shut off engine keeping your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal comes up slightly pushing against your foot then the booster IS working.

Did you BLEED the brakes??????

your power brake booster is blown out
the seal has a leak in it
run the truck for 3 minutes and shut it off. with the windows up listen carefully while you gently apply the brakes
listen for a hissing sound of air leaking.
the sound of these leaking is a very soft sound

TAKE IT TO THE DEALER, SINCE VEHICLE HAS ABS SYSTEM . THE BRAKES MAY NEED TO BE BLEED WITH DRB/SCANNER. OR YOU MAY HAVE LINES CLOGGED.

The binding of the brakes is causing the pads to overheat, which is causing the smoke. You need pull the wheel and check things out. Your caliper must be bad (not releasing). You need to replace the caliper, brake pads, and have the rotor cut (a full service parts store or shop cuts the rotor perfectly smooth on both sides), or replaced (it may be cheaper to just buy a new rotor). You should also always change the pads (and check everything else) on the opposite side. So, if u do the brakes on the driver side front, always do the front pass. side at the same time, likewise if u do rear brakes.
Whenever you do brakes u should also flush out the brake lines (by bleeding the brakes) until the brake fluid flows absolutely clear. Old brake fluid is the #1 reason for caliper failure. I've seen many times people replace brake components w/out changing the brake fluid, only to have the brakes wear out very quickly, or not function properly. good luck! hope this helps> please rate this!couontrycurt0