SOURCE: how to change u-joints in the front for the four wheel drive 1998
cant help here nver seen one here in spain,but is it a hardy spicer joint or a constant velocity type
SOURCE: Check engine light
A multi misfire may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plug or wires, Faulty coil (pack), Faulty oxygen sensor(s), Faulty fuel injector(s), Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages, Faulty camshaft position sensor, Defective computer.
The engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wire, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.
Good luck and hope this information helps, keep me posted, be glad to help you get the truck running 100% again. Not sure if your running a K&N air filter, and if you are there may be a flim of oil on the MAF sensor that is making you run lean. You may want to spray down the MAF sensor with a can of MAF cleaner.
SOURCE: check engine light code 51
there is a code 51 first of all, try putting octane boost in the tank, there has been several completes all across the country of watered gas, i have a 96 and a 95 neon and within days of filling both up the code 51 came up. the boost helped 1 and the MAP sensor had to be replaced on the 96. hope this helps
SOURCE: OBD2 METER READS ENGINE TOO LEAN
Lean running condition
A lean running condition means that the air/fuel mixture is unbalanced, and that the engine is getting either too much air, not enough fuel, or a combination of both. Optimally, this ratio should be around 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel by mass, at low or cruising loads. This ratio is known as stoichiometric for gasoline. Ideally, at WOT, you should aim between 11.5:1 (Rich best torque at WOT) and 13.3:1 (Lean best torque at WOT).
Running lean, like having your spark timing too advanced, creates much more heat during the combustion process. This can lead to piston seizure, a hole in the piston, melted spark plug electrode or other complications due to overheating. You will not be producing peak power, and your exhaust will also emit more oxides of nitrogen, arguably one of the worst byproducts of gasoline combustion for our environment.
Common causes of a lean running condition are an improperly tuned carburetor, clogged fuel line, clogged fuel filter, or a vacuum leak.
Preforming a plug chop is a good way to find out if your engine is running too lean, as you will see a powdery white residue on your spark plug in the presence of a lean condition.
On the other end of the spectrum, richer ratios will also cause lost power, however this will most likely be accompanied by black smoke (around the 9:1 fuel/air ratio area), and fouled spark plugs.
Testimonial: "THANK YOU SO MUCH ,MY MECHANIC FEELS ITS A HEAD LEAK OR A HOSE CLAMP NOT TIGHTENED.HOWEVER I FEEL ITS A FUEL FILTER.THIS WAS VERY HELPFULL.THANK YOU"
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It sounds like the vacuum hose or the brake booster it self. I have never replaced one on that year of truck. It shoud'nt be that hard if you can get to the bolts and booster push rod. May have to dissconect brake lines and bleed system. Check the vacuum hose first.
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