1977 chry new yorker headlite doors

I owned a LHS and 94 New yorker both cars did this, have the door locks checked for a loose wire for the alarm system, something is telling the security system there is a breach, you must lock the doors, shut the door and then open the car door by unlocking it with the key or it will continue to do this. Mine had loose wires and the door lock would not sense the key so I used the passenger door in the same way I described above. IT will NOT Start and run if this is an issue until the alarm is reset by doing as I described. Good luck BTW both cars suffered from failing transmissions, very weak trans in these cars.

hi ther .it sounds like you your dash lites have been dimmed. you should be able to turn your head lite switch to the right and they should come back on. or there might be a dial to turn under the headlite switch to brighten the dash lites. but there is a switch that dims or brightens your dash lites. hope this helps. have a good day

check the ground wires to all non working lights near the firewall first to the fuse box with an ohm mter. if good check the grounds to the switch for a possible shorted or loose connection

Use a volt meter or a test lite ,check for power at the bulb or on the wire to the bulb also check the ground wire to see if it supplys a ground circuit.Look for wires loose from the headlites ground circuit.If equiped it will be close by,A black wire with a screw to framework for a ground.If you have 4 hd lites make sure you dim and or brighten the lites while you look for problem. There may be a fuse for each side of the headlites right and left!

mcdevito75 here, It could be the dimmer section of the headlite switch, when dark outside put head lites on and see if you can turn the head lite switch either to the left or right to get the instrument panel lights on. Turning the headlites on and off could have turned the switch enough to keep the instrument lites from comming on, specially if your not the only driver.

Hallo
well send me your e-mail and I will send you diagram. and is it WITH daytime running lights or WITHOUT?
Marko ( [email protected] )

look on the side where all of your belts are your water pump will be housed behind a pulley. look for your lower radiator hose it attaches to the water pump housing this will give you a good idea where its located. if you have all of the proper tools you could do it in about 1 hour to 1and a half hrs.

Hi,
1991 Chrysler New Yorker Auto Security Wiring Diagram
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire (+): Red and Pink
Battery Constant 12v+ Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Positive Wire (+): Yellow
Starter Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Ignition Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Positive Wire (+): Black/Orange
Accessory Positive Wire Location: Ignition Switch Harness
Parking Light Positive Wire (+): Black/Yellow
Parking Light Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel
Power Door Lock Positive Wire (+): Orange/White Or Orange/Violet
Power Door Lock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire (+): Pink/Violet
Power Door Unlock Positive Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel
Door Trigger Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Door Trigger Negative Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel
Dome light Supervision Wire: Use Door Trigger (Requires Relay)
Dome light Supervision Wire Location: N/A
Trunk Release Positive Wire (+): Black/White (Requires Relay)
Trunk Release Positive Wire Location: At Trunk Release Switch
Horn Negative Wire (-): Black/Red
Horn Negative Wire Location: At Relay In Fuse box
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire (-): Black/Gray
Tachometer Wire Negative Wire Location: At Ignition Coil
Brake Light Positive Wire (+): White
Brake Light Positive Wire Location: At Switch above Brake Pedal
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire (-): Light Green/Orange
Factory Alarm Disarm Wire Location: In Drivers Kick Panel
Factory Anti-Theft System: N/A
Factory Anti-Theft System Location: N/A

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Try removing one bulb or the other at one time preventing power completing the circuit if the problem in a light. Those ones are tuff to find but second place I would start is removing front door cils and cleaning out and playing with wires in there to see if you can find a problem, also wires in the boot between door and frame, usually drivers side cause it's used more often.

A rubber boot around the lock motor can disintegrate and get caught up in the motor gear or if the link age assembly to the motor gear has been fixed with epoxy glue ( allowing no free play) then these symptoms can develope which allows the automatic door locks to work but very stubborn almost impossible to open manually.