No brake on rt side of front brake 1984 silverado p/u caliper has been replaced,removed line and depressed brake pedal ,no fluid came out cau u help resolve this

Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ?
It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only.
Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?

Remove the line from the caliper and have someone press the brake pedal lightly. (Be carefull not to let any fluid get on vehicle paint it will damage it.) If fluid comes out then the caliper is frozen and a new will be needed. If u do not get any fluid then the brake line is probably collapsed inside. You may get some fluid to drain with the line loose and no pressure applied to pedal. Then when you depress the pedal the fluid stops. If this occurs the line is collapsed inside and blocking flow when placed under pressure. In that case a new line will be needed. The only other thing I can think of at the moment would be a pinched metal line somewhere on the vehicle, however, that is unlikely.

1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
   2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
   3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
   4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.
   
   
3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
   
4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
8. Check the fluid level and add DOT3 fluid if necessary.

Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.


For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.

1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   
   

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. Tighten the line connection(s).
2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.

WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left rear
   3. Right front
   4. Left front
   
   
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
   2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
   3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.
   
   

During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.

1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.

1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.

1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Brake Pads
Removal & Installation
Front





3.4L front disc brake assembly









4.0L and 4.7L front disc brake assembly




To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
   this section.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   
   • Front wheel
     
   • Clip, 2 caliper pins, the anti-rattle spring then remove the 2 brake pads
     and the 4 anti-squeal shims

To Install:

CAUTION
Only replace brake pads on 1 side of the
vehicle at a time. Failure to use this procedure could cause the caliper pistons
on the opposite side of the vehicle to pop out requiring the reconditioning or
replacement of the brake caliper.

1. Remove a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
   
2. Install a used brake pad into the caliper and compress the caliper pistons.
   
3. Apply disc brake grease to both sides of the inner anti-squeal shims.
   
4. Install or connect the following:
   
   
   
   • Anti-squeal shims to the new brake pads
     NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced
     together with the pads.
     
     
   • 2 brake pads
     
   • Anti-rattle spring and the 2 caliper pins
     
   • Clip
     
   • Front wheel
   
   
5. Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
   
6. Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.

Rear
To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
   this section.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   
   • Rear wheel
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
   • 2 cylinder slide pins from rear caliper assembly
     
   • Caliper assembly from rear caliper mounting
     
   • 2 brake pads with anti-squeal shims from rear caliper mounting
     
   • 2 anti-squeal shims from each disc brake pads
     
   • Pad wear indicator plate from the inner side disc brake pad
     
   • 4 pad support plates from the rear caliper mounting

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   
   
   • 4 pad support plates on the rear caliper mounting
     
   • Pad wear indicator plate on the inside brake pad
     Note: Install the pad wear indicator facing downward.
     
     
   • Anti-squeal shims on each brake pad
     
   • 2 disc brake pads with anti-squeal shims to the caliper assembly
   
   
2. Apply lithium soap base glycol grease to the sliding part of 2 caliper slide
   pins.
   
3. Install or connect the following:
   
   
   
   • Disc brake caliper assembly with 2 caliper slide pins
     
   • Torque to 65 ft-lbs (88 Nm)
     
   • Rear wheel
   
   
4. Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
   
5. Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.

--- Removal & Installation
Front
To Remove:

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
   this section.
   
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   
   • Front wheel
     
   • Front brake caliper assembly
   
   
3. Make matchmarks on the disc and the axle hub.
   
4. Remove the front disc.

To Install:

1. Align matchmarks and disc onto axle hub.
   
2. Install or connect the following:
   
   
   
   • Front brake caliper assembly with the 2 bolts
     
     
     
     1. Torque to 90 ft-lbs (123 Nm)
     
     
   • Front wheel

jack up car and remove wheels, use a stick to depress brake pedal about an inch this will keep fluid from running out during replacement, loosen bleeder screws to relieve pressure, then ddisconnect brake hose at caliper, replace the calipers and reinstall hoses with new gaskets, remove brake hold down and bleed passenger side then drivers side.

For front brake pads replacement you need only usually wrench set, inclusive 7 mm allen key also. But for rear brake pads replacement you need obligatory a special caliper piston pressing tool, in order to press back rear caliper piston with parking brake automatic adjustment!!! For front brake pads. First you must verify yours front brake disc diameter: 280 mm or 288 mm. (On my car y have 288 mm). After that you can buy the brake pads (with wear sensor). For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow: 1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper. 3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease). 4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier. 5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston. 6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary! 7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing. 8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward). 9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier. 10. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm. 11. Install both caps. 12. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!!

You will find the clip for the front brake hose inside the frame.
Remove it and pull the hose out to remove it from the steel brake line.
The other end will have 2 gaskets at the caliper end....one above and below the hose connection.
Once the new hose has been installed.....open the bleeder on the caliper and remove all air as fluid flows into the new parts.
Only new fresh brake fluid should be added to the master cylinder to replace lost fluid.
Do not expose brake fluid to air for long periods.....it will absorb moisture.
You may have to bleed the other front caliper to restore a firm brake pedal.
After your repair hold the brake pedal down for a few minutes...it should not drop down.....and also inspect for leaks before moving the vehicle.

Replace both front brake hoses.....they collapse on the inside and will not allow fluid to retract...caliper was probobly fine.....this happens a lot....good luck...Lee

is the brake pedal soft or go to the floor? you could have a rusted out or pinched metal brake line, or the rubber brake hose could be clogged, you must trace the hose and metal line back to the master and look for leaks or rust, then unscrew the line from the master and make sure you get fluid there while depressing the pedal, and just keep disconnecting down the line until you get fluid to the caliper be sure your bleeder screw is not just clogged with rust remove it all the way and depress the pedal to see if you have fluid there please rate -jeff