Nothing in front is a clue. Check all front steel lines for pressure leak, rust or corrosion at connections. I am not a mechanic, but have been told that brakes should operate as normal, even if the abs light is on, The abs is, kind of, a second brake system. (Unless there is a major problem, this secondary system should not cause a problem with the main brakes.)
Brother, it's just the fact that there is STILL air in your system. Just fill the master cylinder, open the left front line and let it run into a bottle to catch it for a bit until you know for sure all air is gone from that line. Then do the same with the right front. Then the left rear, then right rear. This is gravity bleeding, no pumping required. It's the only way to know for sure that each wheel cylinder and line is free of air. Only let the master cylinder drain down about half way each time the tighten each bleeder. Refill with the drained fluid. Be patient my friend, it takes time to do it right, but it works for me every time. Good day.
SOURCE: 92 dodge van rear ABS-brake and ABS lights on/can't reset?
Its probably how your bleeding your brakes, but first make sure the bleeding nipples are facing upward. You should bleed diagonaly, front pass wheel then rear driver wheel. Then front driver wheel and rear pass wheel. The abs light has its own computer your have to get it scanned to clear the codes and turn off the light
SOURCE: 95 olds cutlass supreme sl with 3.1 6 cyl. ABS and
you may have a ABS problem. I would drive it and attemp to skid the tires an dsee if the pump activates. sometimes this will unstick any valves inside the ABS unit. you may need to have a qualified repair shop check deeper. the ABS will have a code, and a scanner will be needed to check further.
SOURCE: we have replaced the master cylinder and a square
When bleeding brakes you start with the wheel farther away from the master cylinder, this pushes air and fluid to the master cylinder. then the same with the next farther. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder.
SOURCE: i have no brake fluid leaving the master cylinder/
Your description does sound like M/C issue, but the amout of fluid is not much, that comes out...
It is brakes, so forget it and just replace the M/C. Also, pick up enough fluid to bleed all brakes and GET A M/C BLEED KIT, which are little hoses that screw in where brake lines attach to M/C, and route into the brake fluid reservoirs...Bleed until no air, then carefully remove one at a time, and install the brake line.
Now, do not allow M/C fluid to drop, or start all over again....
So, now continue bleeding at each wheel. At the end of it all, you want to do a "lift your **** off the seat" application of the brakes, as hard as you can. If the system passes this test, it usually will be good.
I presume that you have inspected each brake and found no faults...leaks, or anything.
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