Starting problem after switching off ...

using only electronic key or the metal key.(feature)
got park assist option?
a no key slot ignition, fails we scant the PCM for cause.

the steering is first. so wheels against curb or hard rock>?
front tires are free of objects?
to unluck it , try both key car came with new
and grab the wheel and move it CCW/CW roughly to free the key.
shifter is in park I guess. try Neutral? step brake
release hand brake, and shift to N
then unlock wheel. this answer is flat ground answer only

the steps are here
Check that the parking brake is set.
Check that the shift lever is set in P.
Sit in the driver's seat and firmly depress the brake pedal.
The "ENGINE START STOP" switch indicator turns green.
Pressthe"ENGINESTART
STOP" switch
if steering lock fails the books states

The "ENGINE START STOP" switch indica-
tor will flash in green and a message will be
shown on the multi-information display. Press
the "ENGINE START STOP" switch again
while turning the steering wheel left and right!!
read page 137

https://assets.sia.toyota.com/publications/en/om-s/OM53839U/pdf/OM53839U.pdf

redux 1:
no engine size told, gas we now know GAS word but there are 4.
when did the truck LAST run perfect.? , last week, year, or decade?
is fuel bad and old 1gallon hints at old dead truck bring revived;, there is a story here.
does this truck have the IMMO option and key is bad? causing IMMO cut fuel in 3 seconds. Immobilizer? LAMP not happy????


2.5L, 3.9L & 5.9L , 4.7L Engine 3 transmissions used.
code 42RE; Trans. code 46RE and 45RFE

to fix any car the driveline there needs to be known and told.

1: check all fuses. if one blows and makes the network dead, (PCI dodge) modules can not communicate.
2; scan the PCm it will tell you 2 things. cluster can't communicate to PCM or TCM/transmission gross errors.


well cluster PRNDL errors means 2 things, cluster can not talk to PCM (network dead)_ or TCM'/ transmission errors, told with scan tool clear as day but nobody is looking or using lame $17 code reader not a real scan tool.

the network (PCI) in this car connect 10 module computer brains, in fact ALL of them and must not fail this network.

use a real scan tool and find what what is failing in minutes
a 2008 or newer tool is best, OBD2 (USA) real scan tool
beg /borrowed , rented, buy or loaners.

that is correct the battery needs to be good or 12v or rested at 12.6vdc or never below 10vdc. sure a battery charger may get the voltage to 12vdc, if lucky and battery cells not shorter, a 10amp charger is best at least
and charged for 4 to 8 hours first.

Is it parked or while driving. If driving go get the brakes looked at. If parked then my guess is it's a manual trany and the engine compression is not so good. First if parking down a hill put the car or truck in reverse and point the wheels towards the curb so when it rolls 10 inches it will stop when it hits the curb. And use the brake also. Again if it's not working get it repaired.

98 sidekick.
in the USA we have the 4speed, A/T called. 03-72LE
do post what id does and not do. (full picture)
what wont shift?, the shifter or transmission or both?
won't go to park is clear. but;
1: are you on flat ground or on a hill parking to a curb.
vastly different rules there.
2: wont go into park so where does it go? everywhere buy park?
or flops around , like a loose Popsicle stick?

on flat ground the parking pawl in the tranny goes in easy.
on hills not so.. set the hand brake first, then park last.
on last, off first. (or trouble brews)
or it may not ever get to park. if rammed against curb or rock, or?

there are 2 reasons.
1: park lock out is broken (brake switch activated)
2: or the tires are jammed in to a curb, going down hill,
(known as parking pawl lock up , inside the tranny)
(is car on flat ground?)
you never said what car, just jeep and they made jeeps from 1941 to now. so cant guess.
what jeep?
many jeeps, have a hidden super secret (in the operator guide under how to drive a A/T)
secret bypass. lever on the shift console.
so post year, and model of jeep and we can dig that up.
or go to alldata.com , log in and read, the park lock out page.

cars do start in neutral. and park so that's ok.
cranks but no start is lost spark.
did you check spark?

move steering wheel away from the curb and tranny will then go to park.

Okay. i have seen alot of fords that wont start but ran good and got parked and then wont start, the problems i have found is first the fuelpump goes bad,try this, have someone try to start the truck and at the same beat the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber hammer, this shakes the pump and sometimes makes a bad pump start back up, if you get van going with the method then pump is bad and needs replacing. the other thing i have seen alot is that fords have a fuel shutdown switch, this shuts the fuelpump off when van is in a crash or i have seen this just by the van getting tapped in a parking lot, so check the switch, you will need to look in the manual to locate it and you will use your finger on the top to push the button in and you will feel it click a little and then try to start the van, here are a few locations they put the switch.i jsut remembered on this van the switch is in the rightside in the luggage compartment, open the rear tailgate and look to the right on the side you will see a decal that say fuel switch, thats the switch. hope this helps. good day

Hi,check your transmision fluit level.I think the level is low .start the car ( car on level surface) put it in drive,parking brake set and check your trans fluit level.
good luck!!!!!

Sounds like fuel cut off switch this sometimes happens if the car thinks you have crashed, dont know where it is on that car but read the user manual its just a switch you depress, try inside the boot under the spare or behind the centre consul. sometimes they are on the bulkhead at the veery top easy to see if its there small black box with a rubber on top does not look like a switch though, has 3 wires most times.

Check fluid level every 12 months or 7500 miles, whichever comes first. Transmission fluid and filter should be changed every 100,000 miles. On THM 250C transmissions, intermediate (front) band requires adjustment every 60,000 miles, or as required.
1. With vehicle on level surface, apply parking brake and let engine run at curb idle. Move selector lever through all ranges, ending in "PARK". Remove dipstick and wipe clean, reinstall, then remove again and check fluid level mark on dipstick. Fluid level should check between "ADD 1 PT." and "FULL HOT" marks on dipstick.
RECOMMENDED FLUID Use only Dexron II or equivalent automatic transmission fluid.
CAUTION: If vehicle has been operated for an extended period of time at high speed, or in city traffic in hot weather, or if vehicle has been pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level cannot be determined until fluid has cooled down (approximately 30 minutes after vehicle has been parked).
So let's get started... 1. With vehicle raised and drain pan placed under transmission, remove front and side transmission oil pan bolts. Loosen rear pan bolts approximately 4 turns each.
2. Carefully pry pan loose with screwdriver, allowing fluid to drain. Remove remaining bolts and oil pan with gasket. Remove screen/filter-to-valve body bolts and remove screen/filter with gasket.
3. Thoroughly clean pan and screen with solvent and dry with compressed air. Paper type filters should be replaced. Install new gasket or "O" rings, lubricated with clean oil, into screen/filter assembly.
4. Install screen/filter assembly to transmission. Use new pan gasket and install pan. Add proper amount of fluid to transmission through filler tube.
5. Start engine with shift selector lever in "PARK" position and with parking brake set. Check fluid level and add as required. CAUTION: DO NOT overfill.
Best of luck :)