I have a ford fiesta hatch back 57 plate there used to be a little metal square just above my bumber its some sort of cover, it has either fallen off or has been stolen what is this little square called and what does it do do? do need to get another one, any idea how much they are. Tracy :)

if mirror popped out or glue failed put back into place --if damaged then its damaged

I found this on an Odyssey forum. It is long, but that panel is not a short process. After you have fixed the wire, you might have to "rehome" the doors. Google this and you should find instructions.

1. I just finished replacing the passenger 3rd row seatbelt in my 2006 Odyssey, which required removal and replacement of the trim panel. Instructions were enclosed with the new seatbelt ordered from Honda, but I had to scan thru the whole document because the needed info was not in the section about 3rd row seatbelt replacement.
   
   Trim panel removal is not terribly difficult, but is rather fussy and slow work. Basically the panels are held in place by little plastic pins that snap into holes in the underlying metal bodywork. In addition, the rear panel is held at the bottom by the sliding door threshold panel and the rear hatch threshold panel, and at the top by the pillar trim panels flanking the rear window. (These are called Pillars C and D, repectively).
   
   You may as well start by unbolting the 2nd row seatbelt at the floor and on Pillar C. Down at the floor, pull back the rubbery cover and unscrew the bolt using a 14mm wrench. Up above, on the pillar, remove the plastic cover at the sealbelt shoulder height adjustment mechanism. This cover has hooks molded into either side, so gently use a screwdriver to pry them loose and pop off the cover, then unscrew the bolt with your 14mm wrench.
   
   Next, remove the sliding door threshold panel by prying it up with a screwdriver or prybar and getting your fingers under it until you hear and feel the pins pop loose one by one. You will develop a feel for how much force to apply. Use your fingers as much as possible, because you risk marring the plastic edges with steel tools. The threshold panel is hooked into the other trim panels at either end, so work it to disengage.
   
   Fold the rear seat down flat and remove the plastic cover over the seat pivot. Pry the forward side up first and then rotate it rearwards over the pivot, and then disengage and remove it fully.
   
   At the rear hatch, unscrew the two cargo net knobs on the passenger side. The plastic knobs will probably come off like nuts, leaving a steel stud behind, or the stud may remain attached to the knob; either way is okay.
   
   Pry loose and remove the little plate on the rear trim panel "window sill" where the seat belt enters. BTW, keep all these little loose parts together as you go.
   
   On Pillar D (rearmost pillar) there is a small square cover that says something about air bags. Pry this loose at the top, as it is hinged at the bottom. You may need something thinner than a screwdriver (try a pocket knife). Once this is open, remove the Phillips head screw inside.
   
   Pillar C (forward) also has a square "air bag" cover plate, but it works differently. Just pry it straight out, but not all the way out. Just let it dangle.
   
   At this point all the major hindrances to removing the passenger side rear trim panel have been dealt with. Starting back at the rear hatch, pry the panel loose and pull it away from the wall, using fingers as much as possible. Listen for the plastic pins to pop loose as you go. There are two at the rear, four across the "window sill" and two toward the front. There is another pin in the center of the panel, but it will pop loose eventually as you pull the panel away from the wall.
   
   NOTE: The lower trim panel and the pillar trim panels are hooked together, so you have to work those joints to separate them. NOTE: DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE PILLAR TRIM PANELS LOOSE AT THE TOP. First loosen them at the bottom, and then rotate and work them gently free of the headliner. Similarly, the main trim panel should be loosened at either end and along the top before rotating the panel in, sort of pivoting at its base. It is hooked under the rear hatch threshold, so you'll have to work it free by pushing down and rotating.
   
   Long before this point, I was wondering if I could get at the seatbelt retractor spool behind the trim panel without completely removing the trim panel. However, there was a hard plastic a/c duct in the way, so I had to completely remove the trim panel to get at the duct. It turned out there wasn't much holding the duct in place and I was able to loosen it enough to get the old seat belt spool out and the new one bolted in.
   
   Reinstall everything in reverse order. One tip I can offer concerns the little square plate on the Pillar C trim panel, the one I said to leave dangling. This gizmo is actually a long plastic stud. When I finally managed to pull the Pillar C trim panel loose from the main trim panel, this stud fell out. It is molded in tan plastic (my van has tan interior) but it had a separate black piece on the end. I thought I would never get this stud/plate back in place during reinstallation. Here's the trick: take the little black piece loose from the stud, and install it first by itself by pushing it into the hole, making sure the cross-shaped hole is aligned correctly to match the tan stud. The small black piece is analogous to a nut, and the tan stud is like a bolt. Put the "nut" in first, then poke the "bolt" in on top of it. Otherwise, the stud forces the "nut" to expand BEFORE IT CAN ENTER THE HOLE in the metal bodywork, and no amount of pushing or pounding will force it in.
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3. 

WINDOW LIMIT REACHED

I just fixed my rear hatch indicater, it kept setting off the alarm. Remove the interior cover on the hatch,this is a little tricky there are 2 screws hidden under the carpet covering you can find them by looking for the small "X" slits in the carpet then remove all screws on outer edges of cover.grab cover by lower edge and give it a yank. Once removed peel back plastic.In the center of the hatch is the switch it is round and black with a metal lip around it. I found the metal lip was loose and can be tapped with a chisel and small hammer to tighten it.There are alot of wires in there for wiper,electric locks,glass hatch switch...I found by turning on the key i could see the indicater on the dash from the hatch and wiggled the wires until the indicater went off this helped me to find the right switch. Hope this helps.

Get a qualified mechanic to check your Ball joints, Track Rod Ends & Tyre's etc.

hi,
open the bonnet. you will see a plastic handle . above this is a sort of button which has to be pressed. the button normally has white paint on it and has a hatched pattern on it and is square. while keeping the button pressed, gently pull up the handle. this will release the headlamp forward out of the bumper. from there you can remove the cover on the back and change the bulb. when refitting , make sure the handle is up and that the lugs on the lamp sit into the runners.

on the cover for the fuse box there is a diagram of all the fuses that will show you

First, take off the license plate.
Since the hatch wouldn't open, I started from the inside and took down the top trim piece. After that the two side pieces come down, then the main trim piece which covers the bulk of the door comes out. These are all popped in with the white tabs.
There are 3 access hole covers to pop out (don't forget to install them back in when done) and through the left hole you can see the mechanism to unlatch, press it down with a screwdriver and open the door. If anytime you close the door you will have to do this to unlatch, up until you disconnect the cable and pull out the handle, then you have to locate the cable and pull that directly.
Behind the large trim piece you will find a metal access cover, remove the 7 or 8 10mm bolts holding that on and pop the 3 white tabs and let it hang off to the side. Disconnect the cable from the handle assembly by reaching in from the right hand side and popping of the cable from the handle assembly.
From the left and right access holes, locate the two 10mm nuts which hold the license plate assembly to the door and remove them. Then there are 4 plastic tabs that come in from the outside that hold the license plate assembly on in each corner, try and locate those and using some pliers squeeze them together and push it through. Next locate the license plate lamps wire connector and release that from the left side, it’s the simple push in and pull out square white connector.
After these are out, put back in 1 or 2 bolts into the large metal access cover so the hatch can be lowered (don’t close it).
Here is where I had fun, begin to pop out the assembly that it was bolted to. I ended up breaking 3 of the 4 plastic tabs in each corner because I did not use pliers from the other side to pull them out, however it remained somewhat useable (hindsight 20/20).
Now the license plate assembly can be taken to a bench to replace the handle assembly (Toyota doesn't sell just the handle, it is a small assembly). Two screws out and the assembly is replaced.
Before pressing the license plate assembly back onto the truck, make certain all the plastic tabs are in the assembly and not in the truck. Reverse the process to re-install.

Their is a Metal panel behind the door panel.
Both need to be removed.
As the Second panel (Metal one) it the regulator.

Yes. If your window has fallen down and will not roll up.
99% Chance you car is suffering the Infamous VW plastic clip.

The door panel comes off With a T-10 torx or a Hex (Allen) wrench
that will fit and A large Philips Screw Driver..
Remove the Plastic cover on the inside Door handle.
And the Screw or Screw along the Bottom of the door panel.
Then remove the screws that hold the handle the the door.
They are located behind the Plastic plate you removed with a tiny screw driver earlier... Be careful not the mark up the cover while prying it up.
It is best to pry from underneath. Where marks if made can not be seen
After the screws are out 4 I believe. The Use of a CLip tool is best.
For getting behind the panel to pop it off. A screw driver will work.
After all the clips are released. Pull the light at the bottom of the panel down and out. Disconnect it or push it back thought the hole it came from..
Hit the panel in an upward motion near the top.
It should release.

Now you need a 10mm socket, or wrench to remove the 12 bolts that hold the metal plate to the Door.
Remove all the 10mm bolts, If the widow has not already fallen in the door. It should be released. By removing the Black 2" plugs. THe loosen the bolts that clamp the window the the arms. DO NOT LOOSEN THEM ALL the way, .
Disconnect the all the wiring.. THe Door lock cable, can be a pain.
I think it pulls down,.
Next remove the Metal plate. that is the regulator.

reverse to install
I used Plastic Shims. From the hardware store.
The sort of look like shin wedges.
To hold the window in place until I fixed it,

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