I have a 63 Ford T-Bird that I can't get the horn to work. I have checked the wires and the grounds and they look good. The horns work when I tested them also but when I put the steering column together the horn doesn't work. I don't know what else could be wrong and I don't have a diagram for the steering column. Any help would be appreciated.

check for 12 vots of power at the horn itself when pressing the horn button. If there is a reading then replace the horn unit. If there is no reading at the unit I would suspect no contact in the horn button/control itself.

Not being smart but get a manual or youtube it. You need to remember that the air bag is located near the horn device. You can be hurt by the bag if it inflates.

The horn button supplies a ground to the horn relay.Start by pulling the plug at the base of the column,see if you can get a ground on one of the pins from the column when you pus the button.Or find the horn relay,and do the same test from there.You should find 12v on one on the relay socket pins,a ground on one(this will be the wire to the horn)and a ground on the 3rd pin when you press the horn button.

Could be the fuse for the horn, the horn relay or the clock spring in the steering wheel column.

Best to start with jumpering the horn relay, to check the horns to the fuse.

Take a jumper wire, and jumper across the normally open contacts in the horn relay socket ( listing in the owners manual ). This is shown as the red line in the picture below.


If the horn does not work with the jumper wire, check the fuse ( engine compartment fuse # 7 ) with a meter. IF the fuse has power on both pins on the back of the fuse, next is to install the jumper and test the horn connector for power & ground ( Yellow w/ light green is from the jumper in the relay socket and black is ground ). If you do not have power using the Yellow w. Light green wire & the black, try another ground, to see if it is an issue with the ground wire. This is to a ground lug on the passenger side inner fender.

If the horn does work, check pin #2 with a meter set to continuity from pin #2 ( diagram above ) and a known good ground. While checking this, have someone press the horn switch on the steering wheel. If you do not get a low resistance (

I'm assuming that when you press on your horn pad the horn isn't working. So you are trying to figure out if it is the horn or something else. Well, either you can test for power at the harness that connects to the horn as the horn pad is pressed by someone else. If you get power then the horn is bad. Or you can test the horn directly by running a power wire to the terminal that connects to the Y/LG (Yellow wire with a thin light green strip) and connect the other terminal to a ground. If the horn sounds then the horn is good. If the horn is working, I would check the horns relay. Next I check the wiring and if it appears to be intact I would change the pad itself. I am forgetting the main thing. Check the fuse first, before you do anything.

Check the fuses. Check the relay for the horn.Check the connections to the horns. There will be 2 horns disconnect both. Use a test light ground it to the battery and stick the probe in the wire connector for any of the horns. Have someone press the horn button. If your getting power the test light should light when the horn button is pressed. If it does? You have wither bad grounded horns or bad horns period.
If the test light doesn't light? You have a problem in the steering column remove the steering wheel and you will see in there a plastic ring with a copper or brass button that drags on another ring to power the horn button. these pieces ware out and the spring loses its tension. This is a common problem with Ford Trucks.
Good luck
Please give me good feed back of somekind for me on here.
Thanks

Try grounding the horn with a test light off of each lead. If energized, the horn should sound if it's good. If it doesn't, and the test light lights at the horn, then the horn itself should be replaced.

Start off with checking the fuse, then with a test-light check for power and ground at the horn. Ask a friend to push the horn button while you are testing.
If you have power and ground then its the horn. If not then you will want to check the horn relay and the horn button.
If you are not sure how to remove your horn button, which is the air-bag too. Don't, bring it to a mechanic. Good luck.

Once you checked the Fuse as OK ( engine compartment fuse panel, fuse #7 ) , might want to try shorting the Normally Open contacts in the Horn relay, to see if it is the horn, or the switch from the steering wheel.

Pull the Horn relay ( Ford 1/2 ISO relay ) Relay 205 in the same fuse panel in the engine compartment ). Looking into the relay socket, you will see 2 sets of pin terminals that are the width of the narrow direction, and 2 that are point the length.
The 2 pin terminals that are the direction of the narrow width of the socket, jumper with a 16/18 AWG, and the horns should sound.


If the horns do not sound, check the pin terminal #3 for +12 V DC ( hot all the time ) with a known good ground ( lug in the fender or the neg side of the battery.
If this checks OK, with the jumper in place, pull the horn connector,and check for +12 V DC on one of the pins, to a known good ground ( fender lug where the headlamps are grounded ).
Horns are behind the bumper on the passenger side, directly below the headlamp.
Next test the same, using both pins in the horn connector.
If you have +12 and ground at the horn connector, the horns are the problem for some reason.

If the horns honk doing the jumper test, work back towards the horn button / clock spring area.
Pin terminal #1 in the socket should be hot all the time, and the pin # 2 is what ground is switched to from the horn button, to activate the coil in the relay.

If you do not have ground at Pin #2 when pressing on the horn, try tilting the steering wheel all the way to the up position and try again ( some times the connector at the base of the steering wheel column pulls apart ).
If the tilt does not change getting ground to the horn relay, the next step would be to test the clock spring, but this requires removing the airbag, and really should be a professional job.

The fuse can't click it is probably the relay that is clicking. Check fuse #2.37 it is the 12th from the bottom row of the central junction box from right to left if it is ok ground the dark blue wire coming down from the steering column to check the horn pad and ground. If the horn works you have a problem in the clock spring or ground. If it doesn't check for 2 pins at the horn relay in the central juntion box for 12 volts if you have 12 volts at 2 pins with the key on then jump pin 30 of the relay with pin 87 of the relay and see if the horn goes off if it does have someone press the horn pad and see if you get a ground to pin 85 or 86 of the relay if you don't you have a ground problem to the relay if you do the the relay has failed. If you jump the relay at the central jumction box between pins 30 and 87 and the horn doesn't go off then the horn has failed or isn't properly grounded. Then check the horn for power with the horn pad depressed if there is power at the horn connector. Hold a test light on the ground wire for the horn from the ground of the battery and see if your test light shows power if it does then you have a bad ground to your horn if it doesn't then your horn has failes.