Clutch reservoir full, clutch pedal almos to the floor , bled slave cylinder and lost little pressure that was left, clutch pedal dead...

Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.

Unless you have bled the slave cylinder properly there will still be air in it. However I think the problem is in the clutch master cylinder ---piston rubbers leaking fluid back to reservoir. Replace the m/cyl with new item and bleed out correctly.

no fluid in the clutch reservoir due to a failed clutch slave cylinder
time to replace both the clutch slave and master cylinder

If you're talking about an hydraulic clutch system that uses brake fluid:
1. Fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
2. Have an assistantpull the clutch pedal up and leave it there.
3. Locate the slave bleeder - the slave is connected to the master, is located on the transmission housing and pushes the clutch release lever).
4. Open the bleeder and have the assistant push the clutch pedal down.
5. Close the bleeder.
6. Make sure there's plenty of fluid in the reservoir
7. Repeat steps 2-4-5-6 until brake fluid comes out with uniform pressure from the bleeder. Non uniform pressure is sign there may be air in the system.
There should be good pressure at the pedal now in the up position. Pressing it should disengage the clutch.

If you have the non adjustable clutch push rod, the adjustment proceedure is to remove the clutch rod arm from the clutch shaft under the dash and reclock it so it pushes the clutch rod in farther...also check to make sure the master cylinder is full of dot 3 fluid and the system has no air in it.

on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

Hydraulic Clutch System BLEEDING The clutch system can be bled using a pressure bleeder. Follow the instructions that come with the pressure bleeder for the proper pressure bleeding procedure. The maximum line pressure while pressure bleeding must not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa). NOTE: To bleed a clutch manually requires the assistance of a second person, a section of hose that is compatible with brake fluid (preferably clear) and fits the slave cylinder bleed screw snugly and a container to catch the fluid that is bled through the system. As brake hydraulic fluid easily absorbs moisture, always use fresh fluid when bleeding a hydraulic system.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. To bleed the system perform the following:
   1. Top off the hydraulic fluid reservoir using a fluid that meets the standards of the vehicle's hydraulic system.
   2. Open the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw and press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold the pedal down.
   3. Close the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
   4. Release the clutch pedal.
   5. Check the hydraulic fluid level and top off as necessary.
3. Repeat the above steps until the discharged fluid is clean and no air bubbles appear during the bleeding process.

Hi:
If you have bled the system, you are down to either having a bad clutch master cylinder, or a bad clutch slave cylinder. You could eliminate the slave cylinder by removing the line and capping it off, and if you have a firm pressure on the clutch pedal ( don;'t try to push it down, just check for pressure!) then your slave cylinder is bad. If you cap off the line, and bleed the system, and the pedal still has no pressure, then your clutch master cylinder is bad!

Fill clutch master reservoir.and put top back on.Pump pedal two times and release the bleder on the slave and close it as the pedal is kept on the floor.

You've replaced the master, the slave, now I would check to see if the throwout fork will move by hand. If you can move the fork by hand I would say that your pressure plate and or throwout bearing are worn out. First try to just gravity bleed the system. If that doesnt work, it may be time for a clutch, pressure plate, and bearing. The pressure plate spring pushes the pedal back up and depending on how many miles and driving habit those little arms on it break off and just wear out. I hope this helps you.