I have no brake fluid leaving the master cylinder/ ABS for one of the four brake lines(Left Rear). I have pulled the brake line off of the master cylinder and applied the brakes... no fluid squirts out of the unplugged line hole... it's like the port is plugged inside of the ABS pump... would the master cylinder be bad..?

Paricia, The brake lines connect via fittings called brake line adapters to the two locations on the bottom left side of your master cylinder. The whole assembly has the brake line adapters, master cylinder, reservoir and the power brake booster (the large circular part that connects into the firewall). If you are referring to the coils in the brake lines, they are there to make the difference between the front brake lines and rear brake lines closer to the same distance allowing more even braking on all four wheels.

Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ?
It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only.
Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?

With or without ABS? Or does the master cylinder have two or four lines coming out it? I have a feeling you have a bad masterclinder. The lines on a non abs are cross proportional, meaning one front and one rear are supplied fluid by one part of the master and the other two are supplied by the other. Try cracking the lines loose on the master cylinder and pressing down on the brake pedal. Try this for ll the lines making sure to tighten the fitting before letting up on the pedal ( just like if you where bleeding the brakes at the wheels). If no luid comes out than you just confirmed a bad mastercylinder.

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If you have replaced the line from the front to the back, there is a lot of air in the line. The proper way to bleed the brakes (for the average guy with no shop) is to;

#1, OPEN the bleeder screw,
#2 THEN have your friend push the brake pedal down fully to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN. Then you
#3 CLOSE the bleeder, so no air can enter the line from there,
#4 THEN have your friend let the pedal up after you have closed the bleeder screw.

Repeat this process untill you have fluid coming out of the bleeder screw. Remember, after your friend has pumped the brakes a few times, the fluid level in the Master Cylinder's reservior will
go down, and you need to refill it as the fluid gets pumped into the line. Do not let it go empty, or you will have to start all over again. Every time the brakes get pumped, the fluid will only go down the line a few inches, so you will have to do this Procedure many times, like 15 or so.

Once you get the fluid coming out of the bleeder screw, do the bleed procedure a couple more times, until there IS NO AIR left in the system and all that is coming out is fluid with NO bubbles.

You MUST do BOTH sides, right AND left of the rear, as there is only a single line to the rear, which splits into two above the axle, and now there will be air in both sides. Then, tighten the screw, top off the master cylinder, and you are done.

If you simply opened up the bleeder screw, and then pumped the brakes with it open the whole time, the master cylinder simply pulled air back into itself every time you let the brake pedal up, resulting in no fluid being pumped into the line.

Also, if the master cylinder ever was EMPTY, then you may have to bleed the cylinder itself. This is done by disconnecting the brake line (rear brake, the one you just had off) from the cylinder, and putting a hose from the line inlet in a small loop back into the master cylinder's reservior. Then, pump the brakes. The cylinder will then pump the fluid directly back into itself. The idea is that you do not let the master cylinder pull any air back into itself, from the line inlet. So, as the cylinder pumps out the air, the only thing it can get back in is FLUID. Do this until there are no more bubbles coming out of the line.

Then perform the above-mentioned Bleeding Procedure. If you do the Bleeding Procedure correctly, and the fluid level in the master cylinder does NOT go down, and you are still not getting fluid to the bleeder screw, then that will tell you that you have to bleed the Master Cylinder.

Good Luck To You.

Nope - the master cylinder sends fluid to the ABS system, which then the fluid is sent to the brakes. It's all one system - you cannot eliminate the ABS without rerouting the brake lines to bypass it.

The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.

1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
   2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
   3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
   4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
   5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
   6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
      

WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
   1. Right rear
   2. Left front
   3. Left rear
   4. Right front
2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
   1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
   2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
   3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
   4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system

Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Did you remember to bleed the master cylinder itself? When the master cylinder runs dry you should start bleeding your brake system at the master cylinder and then continue on to each of the four wheel cylinders.

How do you know if you need a new master cylinder? Most of the time, if a brake component needs replacing, it leaves a trail to follow. This trail is made of stinky brake fluid. That's the good news. Following a trail of brake fluid will usually lead you to a current or future brake problem. There are lots of brake components that can go bad. You've got wheel cylinders, master cylinders, discs, boosters, ABS systems and even brake pads. Any of these things can make your brakes more exciting than you ever hoped. Excitement is not something we want out of our brakes.

• Open end or box wrenches
• Line or flare wrenches
• Screwdrivers
• Small pry bar or throwaway screwdriver
• Turkey baster
• New or Rebuilt master cylinder
• Brake cleaner
• Brake fluid
• Brake lube
• Safety glasses!Before you start wrenching on your braking system, you need to thoroughly clean all of the parts involved. The inside of a brake system is very sensitive to dirt and debris. Even the smallest piece can cause wear and malfunction. Spray the master cylinder, brake lines and other components liberally with brake cleaner. Let it soak and do it again. If it's extra gooey in there, you might need to steal your kid's toothbrush to take care of it. No matter how you do it, be sure the area is clean before you even remove the brake fluid cap. Once you've got everything ****-n-span, remove the fluid reservoir cap and **** the old brake fluid out with your turkey baster. Don't worry about getting every drop, you're just making the next steps a little cleaner.
  Note: Brake fluid can severely damage automotive paint, so keep it off the carIf your car has a "low brake fluid" sensor in the fluid reservoir cap or any other wiring (such as ABS) on the master cylinder, unplug them. Now take your flare wrench and loosen all four brake lines at the master cylinder, but don't unscrew them all the way yet! You want to leave them in there just a little bit. You'll see why in the next steps.!With the brake lines loosened but not removed, you can remove the bolts that hold the master cylinder in place. It's usually bolted to a brake booster of some shape or size, but you can look at your new master cylinder to see exactly what you should be removing. With the master cylinder bolts removed, you can lift the master cylinder up slightly (if needed) and remove the four brake lines. We left them screwed in slightly because often you aren't able to pull them all the way out because of shock tower clearance. It's not fun having to rethread all the brake lines just so you can get them out enough to remove.With the master cylinder removed you'll be able to see the rod that pushes the piston in the master cylinder. If it didn't come off with the master cylinder, there will also be a seal around the pushrod. Remove this seal. If your master cylinder came with a new seal you'll be replacing it. If not, clean it up for reuse. It still needs to come out temporarilyNow that you've removed the old master cylinder, you're ready to install the new part. But before you do, it's a good idea to bench bleed the master cylinder. It's much easier to get the air out now than later. It goes in just like it came out, so in the words of service manuals around the world, "installation is the reverse of removal."
  Once the new part is installed, you'll need to add new brake fluid (never try to reuse the old stuff) and bleed the brakes. Now you're ready to go!
  

sometimes if you leave the bleeder screw open it will gravity bleed the cylinder.Make sure master cyl is full and do one wheel at a time.I have seen this work, I have done it.

get ready for some work.you need to remove the master cylinder nuts that hold master cylinder to brake booster.once you remove nuts you have 2 choices remove master cylinder to remove booster. to keep from bending brake lines.or you can leave master cylinder in pull it toward you easily careful dont bend lines .disconnect vacuum line at booster .go inside vechicle to floor on driver side loosen four nuts on floor to booster .disconnect power brake push rod from brake pedal .dont force pushrod to the sides when disconnecting it.remove four booster nuts then remove booster.when in stalling the new booster loosely install four nuts then connect the push rod to the brake pedal .install new clip tighten the booster unit .if you decide to remove master cylinder use inline wrenches on master cylinder to remove lines.also plug the master cylinder brake line holes to keep from losing all brake fluid.