Sway bar in the way to get oil filter off - 1999 Mercury Mountaineer

You didn't mention year make or model. If this is for a Dodge caravan the following instructions apply. You will need a floor jack, jack stand, bungee cord, 3/8" & 1/2" torque wrench, mallet, 6" 1/2" extension, set of 3/8" and 1/2" metric wrenches and shallow sockets, 3/8 torx bit sockets, large pair of vice grips, 3" or 4" electric cut off saw and penetrating oil. NOTE: Use the penetrating oil on all nuts and bolts before they are removed. The vice grips and cut off saw is to help remove the anti sway bar link if the nut seizes or strips. You may not be able to reuse the existing anti sway bar link. Loosen the lug nuts, raise the wheel off the ground, place the jack stand underneath the subframe or pinch weld where the emergency roadside jack would go, remove the wheel, remove the lower anti sway bar nut, position the bungee cord from the subframe to the brake rotor (This will support the brake assembly so you don't over extent the CV joint), remove the wheel speed sensor cord (if applicable) from the strut mounting bracket, remove both large bolts from the lower strut mount, remove the three nuts from the upper strut mount (support the strut before you remove the last nut) and lastly remove the upper anti sway bar nut. Reassemble in the opposite order. Torque specs- (3) Top mount nuts: 21-25 ft lbs. (2) Anti sway bar link nuts: 65 ft lbs. (2) Lower strut mount nuts and bolts: 65 ft. lbs. Plus 1/4" (90 deg.) Additional Turn and (5) wheel lug nuts: 100 ft lbs. Any questions please feel free to write back.

remove the 2 pivot points under the car on the chassis sub frame . Disconnect the rods at either end of the sway bar at the rubbers . I would get all new rubbers for the sway bar and pivots before reassembly. Sway bars normally do not break as they are spring steel so it may have been weak or rubbing on a pivot from a missing rubber

I agree with Steve.Swaybar end links.Most replacements are available with oem rubber or polyurethane bushings. The oem ones will work fine for her vehicle.

You could do these yourself. But, you would need a good mechanical knowledge and a decent tool kit. The most difficult of these is the ball joints. Just because they are always fiddly. The fuel filter is either screw on or plug in. and the sway bar is dirty and awkward. Ideally you would use a car lift to do these jobs.

go between the front sway bar and the bottom of the radiator support you cant get a wrench in there most times thay turn off by hand

Crank shaft seal or oil filter loose

Where the sway bar meets the cradle the are two bolt that hold a sway bar bushing down on both sides. The bolts have a 15mm head on them. Remove the two on the driver side only they are easiest ones to get to. Once you have them out you should be able to push the sway bar back far enough to get the pan to drop.

Which engine?

3.8 top rear of engine, remove engine cover to gain access

4.6 bottom front of engine above sway bar and below harmonic balancer, remove the lower valance to gain access

If you want to repair the oil pan I would also check lower engine mount for leaking oil and cracks in anti sway bar near fitting's. This due to engine mount is oil filled. OEM sway bar is made of tubular steel and they crack easy. Replacement sway bar is solid steel. Here's the kicker. When they pull the lower frame to service oil pan. The engine mount and sway bar are attached to that frame. A honest mechanic should only charge for parts ($35 for mount and $100 for sway bar) and maybe a extra hour. My mechanic did all in 5 hours. FYI gasket is only $35 bucks. Good luck

ok you have me confused? Your sway bar should be attached to your frame and your "LOWER CONTROL ARMS" via sway bar bushings.