CAN NOT REMOVE RIGHT REAR SUB WOOFER? - 1998 Ford Expedition

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To get at the speaker, you need to remove the rear window shelf trim panel -
Remove rear seat lower by lifting from front;
Remove bolts holding rear seat back and remove seat back; Remove the seat belt retractors;
Remove the push in retainers from the cross car beam;
Lift up on the front of the shelf panel to disengage the hook and loop material; then do the same at the rear of the panel, and pull out the shelf.
The speaker is now accessible for removal.

you will need to establish what the cause is if it is a factory fitted unit and your car 2002 or newer it will have diagnostic plug in the right hand foot well just under the dash this is called OBD2 socket a reputable garage will have the equipment to plug in and read the codes back from your car and should display your sub woofer problem, if this is self fitted then it a case of tracing your circuits and testing your amps good luck

Hello; You have to remove the bottom and back cushion of the back seat then remove seat belts, rear window screen if equiped then remove the rear shelf trim panel. Thank you

need to remove the sub woofer to get to the port where light is, open port and reach in and remove lamp

release the spring clips under the seat, one on each side, slide a putty knife under the lip of seat and locate them, then push very hard inward to release them, this is a very hard thing to do if you have never had a rear seat out before..

Hello, I have a 2000 ES300 and while the body style is different believe the newer model still has the rear deck mounted sub-woofer that you are referring to. The process of removing this speaker would start off the same as if you were going to replace the third brake light also located in this housing. Using a flathead screwdriver work your way around prying/popping up all four corners of the speaker grill covering the speaker that have the retainer clips. Once you disengage the clips work/maneuver the grill up and towards you gently and it should slide out. The bulb for the third brae light will be attached to this speaker grill, disconnect the snap wire from the bulb and you should have a clear visual of the speaker and the four bolthead screws securing it. Remove these screws and your almost home free. The next part might be slightly more difficult. If the speaker s simply connected by a clipped on wiring harness, just detach.On my 2000 ES300 i have the pioneer system(Not Nakimichi) and the 2 wires (one black, and one red) are soldered directly to the speaker. You can take a soldering iron(maybe a battery or gas powered one unless you have an inverter) and remelt the solder to remove the wires or you can elect to simply cut the wires. If you choose to cut them make sure you cut them as close as possible to the soldered joints so you have plenty of wire left to install the replacement speaker.Then install replacement either soldering or using crimp clamps and reassemble. ( Note if you simply want to add a aftermarket amplified sub-woofer you don't need to remove the sub-woofer out of the housing. You can tap into the wire leads and run it directly to the amplifier. Just cut one of the wires leading to the stock sub-woofer so it doesn't also come on and potentially blow while the radio is on. This will also prevent any bass humming when the radio is shut off but the aftermarket amplifier is still on because once one of the wires to the stock sub-woofer is disconnected or cut it breaks the circuit. Hope this helps.

test the sub woofer and the sub amplifier

It is a tedious task, however simple if you have patience. In order to get the sub woofer out, you need to take out the paneling and floor in the back. Start with the plastic knobs near the rear hatch door and then pull the floor back and the panel with the cup holder. I believe i needed to take back the panel on the inside of the rear pillar as well. Everything snaps back in place, so it is not a big deal. Just don't force anything so that you don't crack the plastic. The subwoofer is mounted from the back, so that is the only way to actually get to the hardware holding it in place. Otherwise it will just spin and spin if you try from the front. i replaced mine about 2 years ago with an 8" Kicker, however i think the factory sub had better sound. The amp is designed specifically for that sub. However, it did blow out and the kicker gets the job done. Good Luck!!