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My a/c has always put out 38 degrees air on max recurculation mode no matter how hot now it will only put out 50-60 at the best gauges hooke dup freon is good clean blower motor ck air vent working inside outside air cleaned raditor and condenser just incase got any ideas. how do u clean the evaporator core
Re: My a/c has always put out 38 degrees air on max...
You can check and clean ac core by removing cabin air filters at the bottom side of ac heater case small bolt holds strap and drop the filters and look at core
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u need a leak test done-they put a dye in system then take a light to it--ur probly empty--compressor cud be bad too--bring it to a pro to hook up gauges--put in' ice 32 brand coolant' and u nevr hav to worry about it again
Change the relay, situated in a black plastic box up in front of the battery. Costs about 7 pounds / 11 dollars USD on ebay and takes 30 seconds to do. Until you get it fixed, protect the engine when temp get over, say, 90 degrees celcius, by opening up your side dash vents, turn the in-car fan on max and the temp up to max. The hot air will go directly out the windows and you will see the temp gauge drop back to about 80 degrees. I did this for a year until I figured out the relay needed replacing.
The first hing I would do is confirm the engine temp with a scan tool. If the scan tool is reading a normal temp, 200 to 220 degrees with the fan coming on at around 220 degreese, and the gauge us reading much higher than the gauge is most likely bad.
If the fans are not coming on than you need to look into that. Fuses, relays, wiring, fan motors would be the basic things to check. If you need more help with figuring out the fans let me know.
If the fans are coming on, the temp gauge is reading the same as the scan tool data that there are a couple of possibilities.
Either the system has air in it from nepot being properly bled or the headgket is bad forcing air into the system. Air will cause the cooling system to lock up. If you are try ing seeing the temp gauge spike to 260 degreese the head gasket is likely to have or will fail soon.
Like I said if you have any further questions let me know and I'll be happy to help.
Hi John,
Your right with your diagnostics, you have a blend door problem.
If your switching to cool air and it is still hot then you also have a heat exchange unit fault, this is the component that changes the water flow from hot to cool by shutting off.
If it is not operating correctly this will give you constant hot air no matter where you temperature switch is positioned.
As for the warm air while the engine is cold, sounds like the blend door is still open to atmosphere tempreture and if it is hot outside will pull that hot air into the inside of the vehicle.
Have the heat exchange valve checked, and the only way the check blend door operation is to remove the wiring from the blend doors and have the circuit tested. If the circuit is ok then the blend doors will need to be replaced.
Hope this helps
Hi, had the same problem today. Solution: Start engine, blower on max, air direction to cabin, press rear wiper and rear wash buttons simulanteously for 5 seconds (all lights now on steady). Calibration test starts and lights flsh alternately. After first test, AC and recurculation lights flash for the cool down test. If all test pass then rear wiper light blinks slowly (press to exit self test). If AC and recurculation test fails then just 2 lights stay on. To repeat this part of the test press just AC and rear wash simulanteously ( may take several attempts and usually best when engine is cold). Again exit by pressing the rear wiper button once it is the only one flashing (slow blink).
This does work but it took me 15 minutes to finally switch them off!!!
I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 club cab. I have had my a/c recharged but it is only blowing barely cold air. It used to shut down when I accelerated and blow hot air before. I don't have that problem anymore except barely cold air. Any solutions?
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