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Posted on Aug 11, 2010

I am attempting to wire a trailer kit to my Saturn but need to know which wires are the left and right blinker and which wire is the brake lights. it is a 99 saturn sl1

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  • Posted on Aug 11, 2010
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i am attempting to wire - moz-screenshot.pngHttp://www.offroaders.com/tech/trailer_wiring-diagram.htm
check this out!

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 186 Answers
  • Posted on May 08, 2009

SOURCE: need to replace left side drive shaft on my 1999 saturn sl1

Drain Trans,Remove lower ball joint nut & separate the knuckle from ball joint.Remove 30mm axle nut & gently pry out the axle from trans then tap out axle from hub.

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jeffbvegas1

Jeff Barton

  • 520 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 25, 2009

SOURCE: saturn sl1 99, parking brake needs to be adjusted

you can pull the center console with phillips screw removal and find the adjuster for the hand brake towards the rear . 12 mm wrench required if memory serves me

Ronaldbrains

  • 881 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 29, 2009

SOURCE: blinkers not working on 99 saturn SL1 (hazards not

Its either a blown fuse or a relay but the first thing to check is the FLASHER UNIT it will be under the dashboard somewhere and when on and working you can hear a tick tick tick or a click and now you cannot
as the flasher can works both indecators and hazards.
So find it Fix it and away you go ..Have a goodday. Ron

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 22, 2010

SOURCE: 99 saturn odometer is not illumated anymore makes

I have a 99 SC, and I found that the backlight itself blew out. In some S Series, that backlight is an LED, which technically have a limitless life. It's more likely that the bulb is a standard incandescent. It can be replaced, and I did so myself for about $3.
All bolts were metric.
All steps below work for the SC, but they might be a little different for yours.
The steps include:
1) Remove screws from the underside of the steering wheel that hold the plastic cover on. Pull it apart as best as you can; it might not entirely come apart.
2) Remove all screws holding the lower panel above the pedals, and remove the panel - be careful, the hood release is mounted in this panel. Also, the electronic diagnostic port screws are also securing this panel.(it is on the SC).
3) Remove the two decorative plastic caps from the center of the dash towards the windshield. Remove the two screws beneath.
4) Remove the top dash cover bezel. You may need a flathead screwdriver to pry the clips loose. Be careful so that you do not damage the bezel.
5) The steering wheel may be in the way of the proper removal of the instrument cluster, and you will need to drop it to the floor. It can be dropped by removing two bolts that hold the column just below the cluster from the bottom. They are larger bolts, but are difficult to see behind some wiring. You may have to disconnect an electrical cable in that vicinity in order to remove the bolts. Once the bolts are out, the wheel easily drops to the floor.
6) Remove the bezel that sits in front of the instrument cluster by prying out the two small plastic retainers in the top.
7) On the back of the instrument cluster, identify the electrical connectors. You will see a single orange tab sticking out of each connector. Remove the tab. Place it in a safe place. Then remove the electrical connectors by pressing carefully on the tabs on the side to release the latch. This takes some patience and can be difficult.
8) Remove the two bolts that hold the instrument cluster in on the lower left and right of the cluster. Then, remove the two bolts in the back of the cluster towards the windshield.
9) The cluster should now easily come out of the dash. Turn the cluster over, and you should see an array of gray knobs, behind each of which is a bulb. All those bulbs are probably fine (unless you've noted other lighting anomalies in your cluster). The knob you must locate is black in color, and is directly behind the odometer. It turns about 1/5th of a rotation counter clockwise, and easily pops out.
10) Take this to the auto store. You can easily pop the light out of the black knob, and replace it with a matching bulb from the lighting department at the auto store. They are very cheap.
11) Reassembly is reverse of assembly. Ensure you tighten the steering wheel bolts tightly, otherwise they will come loose and rattle, potentially the steering wheel unexpectedly on your lap. Regarding other bolts, be careful of over tightening because this can easily cause the bolts to strip their threads.

As a general rule, don't pull too hard on anything. If it's not coming loose, you probably missed a bolt! In some cases, you may have to remove the left end cap where your left driver's vent is. This can be tricky, even though only two bolts hold it in place.

Give yourself plenty of time, and you'll be just fine. My total repair was about two hours.

Anonymous

  • 181 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 09, 2010

SOURCE: 99 Saturn SL1 when stopped and then put in reverse

That I'm not sure about yet. Do me a favor and pull the trany dipstick and put your nose really close to the fluid on the stick and see if it smells burnt.and is the fluid red or brown.

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When I tow with my car the left blinker doesn't work on the trailer. There is a 7 pin round plug on the car, with a flat adapter to the flat pin on the trailer. I have had the same problem with at...

Hello Carol, The 7 way is for use with a brake controller and/or a trailer that has electric brakes. The 4 way flat is a basic trailer plug connector.
Connect as follows:
Green wire- Connects to the vehicles right turn wire harness & provides brake light and right turn signal on trailer.

Yellow wire- Connects to vehicles left turn wire & powers brake light & Left turn signal on trailer

White wire- Ground

Brown Wire- Tail/ marker/ license plate lights

The Blue, Red & Purple wires on the 7 way will not be used on the adapter, those are for brakes.

I hope this information is helpful.

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It does sound as though the trailer connection is the source of the problem, check to see if the wiring has been resting on the exhaust pipe and melted through, shorting the wires. Also check if it is squashed or damaged anywhere. Failing this you may have to pull the trailer connector apart and see if the wires have come out inside and are touching, this can happen if the trailer connector is pulled hard.
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The kits are great, they work, They eliminate the need for running extra wires for the brake and blinker, they don't mix well. Also, you need a real good ground on your trailer or you will get dim lights, or no lights at all.
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This sounds like a short in the wiring on the trailer. You could attempt to isolate the source of the short, or put new wiring in for the trailer.
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