I need to know which brake line at the master cylinder controls which tire on a 1997 ford escort with out abs or a brake line diagram.
Looking to do my own brake lines on my 1997 ford escort sport dealer wanted 6hrs for labor and parts 50 bucks i think thats a joke to rip of a customer like that so i need a diagrame to see where can i get one
The LF and RR are in an independent circuit of the RF, LR wheels.
The master cylinder already has the lines hooked up in a way that if you trace the lines, you can make your own diagram.
Are you trying to determine which line to remove? Is it because one of your lines is leaking?
If so, then you can cut the line that is leaking (due to rust) and pull on it and have a friend look above at the master cylinder for movement of the line in question.
Does that make sense?
I read that a brake scan tool is used to bleed the brakes of the 1997 ford escort. One might be able to bleed the brakes and see where it squirts out.
The ABS system on 1994-96 models does not require any special procedures or tools and is covered in the bleeding procedure for non-ABS systems at the start of this section.
The ABS systems on 1997-99 models requires the use of a scan tool that must be able to perform the System Bleed Function to purge the air from the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU). An appropriate scan tool would be the New Generation Star (NGS) tester 418-F048 (007-00500) or its equivalent.Start the vehicle and let the engine idle normally.
Following the tool manufacturer's instructions, attach a scan tool capable of performing the System Bleed Function to the Data Link Connector (DLC).
Depress the brake pedal to half of the full travel position.
Access the Function Test mode on the scan tool and activate the System Bleed Function.
Manually bleed the brake system as follows:
Clean the area around the master cylinder filler cap and remove the cap.
Fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid and install the cap.
WARNING
Be careful not to spill brake fluid on painted surfaces, as it can destroy the finish. If any brake fluid is spilled, rinse the area immediately with water.
Repeat the master cylinder bleeding procedure at the front master cylinder outlet fitting.
Position the correct box-end wrench on the brake bleeder on the right rear wheel.
Always bleed the longest line first, which is the right rear line. Attach one end of a clear rubber hose to the brake bleeder screw and the other end into a container half full of clean brake fluid.
Loosen the bleeder screw while an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly through its entire travel.
Close the brake bleeder and then have the assistant release the brake pedal.
Continue bleeding the right rear wheel until the fluid is free of air bubbles.
DO NOT allow the master cylinder to run out of brake fluid. Only use fresh DOT 3 or equivalent brake fluid from a closed container. Repeat the procedure on the left rear wheel, then the right front, and finally the left front wheel.
Throughout the brake bleeding process, continually check the brake master cylinder and top off the fluid as required.
Repeat the procedure, performing a total of two System Bleed Functions and two manual bleed cycles.
If the brake pedal is spongy, repeat the brake bleeding procedure.
Disconnect the scan tool and check the fluid level.
Test drive the vehicle and check for proper operation.
You could be liberal and change both rear lines, one at a time. If one goes underneath the car, the other one may go soon after.
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/r...
The above is a link to motorcraft's site.
http://www.alldata.com/
Also, alldata.com has a good site for getting more specific info. on your 1997 Ford Escort problem.
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If I could trace the lines I would. I can't trace them from the master cylinder to the bottom of the firewall after that it's easy peasy.I have four lines on the master one in the front on the top, one in the front on the bottom, one in the back coming off of the side and one in the back on the bottom. I know which one is the problem from the brake to the firewall however I can't trace from the bottom of the firwall to the master.
yes I am trying to determine which line to remove, there is a clamp that holds all four lines together on the firewall that I can not get to, so when I wiggle the bad line they all move together. From the bottom of the car looking up the fire wall all the lines are intermingled and it is impossible to tell which one is which, from the top of the engine looking down they go into the clamp side by side and it is easy to tell which line is which.
Yes I was repairing both rear lines. One I could tie into under the car but the other one I had to tie into further up the line on the fire wall so I had to unhook it from the master cylinder, I figured out which line it was and fixed the problem. While not actually answering my question, I still appreciate the time and information you contributed so thank you.
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