Trying to replace right front bearing hub and cv axle [bad boot on upper end] cv shaft outer hub will not clear the shock or stabalizer bar for removel and replacement on 06 f150 4x4 pulled bottom bolt from shock hoping to move shock enough for shaft removel and replace still cant clear and cant move shock enough to replace bolt in shock.[ help ]

Lift and support front end on suitable jack stands preferably on frame. Remove right front cv axle, stub shaft, and seal. You will need to pull the right front brake caliper assembly loose and place to the side. Then remove bolts from shock and upper control arm and hub nut to do this. Next, remove axle lock actuator on passenger side of front axle. Place a drain pan underneath front diff cover and remove cover and drain axle. In the center of differential there will be an 8 mm head bolt holding spider gear cross-shaft. Remove bolt and cross-shaft only! Push inner axle in until clip clears inside of passenger spider gear. Set clip aside and push/pull axle shaft straight out to passenger side.

Check engine mounts, Check the hub that retains the wheel bearing and hub assembly to the steering knuckle to make sure the bolts are tight and have not backed out.

Then inspect the front suspension for worn bushings, broken anti-sway bar links, and broken springs and or shock mounts.

Also look for damaged CV joint boots. Especially the inner plunge/Rzeppa joint. If a boot is damaged, remove it and clean/inspect/replace as needed. The outer as well. but check the inner for excess play and inspect half shaft for damage or straigtness.

IF THIS IS FRONT WHEEL DRIVE YOU HAVE A CV SHAFT AXLE AND THESE CAN BE QUITE A JOB. YOU SHOULD HAVE AN INNER AND OUTER CV JOINT IT WILL BE CHEAPER TO REPLACE THE WHOLE SHAFT.
YOU WILL HAVE TO JACK AND SUPPORT THE FRONT OF THE CAR WITH OUT GETTING ANYTHING IN THE WAY OF THE AXLE YOU ARE TRYING TO REPLACE. 1) REMOVE THE WHEEL 2) REMOVE THE NUT THAT HOLDS THE AXLE IN THE SPINDLE. 3) REMOVE THE CALIBERS AND PAD FROM THE ROTOR 4)REMOVE THE ROTOR 5) REMOVE THE TORTION BAR END BUSHINGS AND LOWER BALL JOINT. WITH A SOFT HAMMER DRIVE THE AXLE SHAFT END FROM THE SPINDLE WHILE YOU PULL THE STRUTT AWAY FROM THE CAR . THE AXLE END SHOULD SLIDE OUT OF THE SPINDLE AND THAT END SHOULD FALL TO THE GROUND. WITH A LONG PRY BAR YOU WILL HAVE TO PRY THE OTHER END OUT OF THE TRANS/AXLE HOUSING. TO REPLACE THE AXLE SHAFT JUST REVERSE THESE DIRECTIONS. YOU MAY WANT TO CHECK THE SPINDLE BEARINGS FOR PLAY OF ANY KIND. THERE IS NOTHING WORST THEN HAVING TO DO THIS TWICE. IT'S NOT TO BAD OF A JOB BUT CAN BE TIME CONSUEMING IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE. HOPE THIS HELPS

Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
   
3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.
   
   Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
   
4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
   NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.
   
   
   Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
   
5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.
   
   Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
   

To install:

1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
2. Install or connect the following:
   
   Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly
   

Halfshafts (Drive Axle) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: A torn CV-boot requires removal of the driveshaft for overhaul
Fig. 2: On most vehicles. the caliper should be removed and supported out of the way
Fig. 3: Also on most vehicles, the tie rod end should be separated from the steering knuckle
Fig. 4: Once the lower shock fasteners are removed it may be compressed and wired up out of the way
Fig. 5: Loosen and remove the flange bolts
Fig. 6: Remove the cotter pin and retainer so the axle nut may be loosened
Fig. 7: A prybar may be used across to of the lug nuts in order to keep the hub from turning while loosening the nut
Fig. 8: Use a suitable axle shaft removal tool to drive the shaft from the hub
Fig. 9: If a driver tool is not available, thread the nut just flush with the shaft end and tab gently with a rubber or brass mallet
Fig. 10: During assembly, hold the hub from turning and torque the axle nut to specification
FRONT DRIVE AXLE Identification The front axle assembly used on most 4wd models covered by this manual utilizes a central disconnect type front axle/transfer case system which allows shifting in and out of 4wd when the vehicle is moving under most driving conditions. The axle has an aluminum carrier which includes a vacuum activated center lock feature. The axle on the MFI-Turbo is designed for full-time four wheel drive and therefore is not equipped with a disengagement feature. With this one exception, the MFI-Turbo and standard 4wd front axle assemblies are very similar. The drive axles employ completely flexible assemblies which consist of inner and outer constant velocity (CV) joints connected by an axle shaft. The inner CV joint is a "tri-pot'' design, which is completely flexible and can move in and out. The outer CV joint is a "Rzeppa'' design which is also flexible but cannot move in or out. NOTE: For more information on front axle identification, please refer to Section 1 of this manual.

The Constant Velocity (CV) joints are located on the inner and outer edges of the axle shaft. The axle shaft runs through the hub and bearing in the spindle.

First their are two different front axles in 1996 troopers. Isuzu changed the 4wd system from auto lock hubs to drive control axle.auto lock hube are on the older trooper's with the light and wiper switches on the dash. The same way to change both. Auto hub remove the six hex. screws slide off the hub remove the sirclip from the driveshaft. Newer hub has 6 alan-head screw's again remove them then the hubcap then the sirclip on the shaft and slide off the round spacer. Next 4 bolts from the lower balljoint and the brake's. Pull out the hub until it clear's the shaft remove the inner boot clips slide the inner boot out the shaft. Clean the grease from the end of the axle then with your fingernail feel along any of the 3 tracks in the axle and near the outer end of the track you will find a wirelike split ring slide a screwdriver under the ring and lever it off . Pull out the drive clean off the grease. You will see a sirclip on the end of the joint remove it and slide off the joint. You can replace either boot from that end. The outer joint is held on with a snap ring on the shaft inside the joint and is not easily removed need a hammer and drift to drive off the end and when removed its hard to get the snap ring on the shaft back into its place.You can change both boots from this end as well. Cheers

remove inner cv boot, just on inside edge is circlip which holds inner bearing joint into outer housing remove circlip and separate joint outer housing does not come out of front diff unless you drop or remove whole front diff assembly
will have to remove whole stub axle hub assembly to remove drive shaft from outer wheel stub axle (hub) assembly

i can only guess it is a 3.0l 4v well as far as the axle goes, the rh outer half shaft seperates at the splines on the intermediate shaft.
the intermediate shaft is the solid shaft from the trans to a bearing support bracket and ends after that. it is externally splined.
the rh axleshaft , inner cv joint, is internally splined.
to remove the rh axleshaft, remove the rh wheel and splash shield.
removed the lower balljoint pichbolt and seperate the lower balljoint front the steering knuckle. take the axle nut off and using a large brass drift or hardwood, drive the axle out of the bearing-hub assembly. DO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS. also use some lubricant on the axle nut dissasembly. after the outer axle end is free, using the same brass drift or other, hit the inner cv joint and drive it off the intermediate shaft. inspect the splines closely because these fail and cause a no-drive condition.
then the mounint bolts for the support bearing and pull the intermedate shaft out, you will loose some fluid.

That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings