1995 ford f250 electric brake won't work. Everything else on the 7 way plug works (signals running lights brake lights etc.) When the brakes are pushed or the controler is moved forward the volts are going to the connection (the meter increases) When I finally plug in the trailer there is no electric brakes??? It is not the trailer as it has been hooked up to two other vehicles and the electric brakes work. Any thoughts??

Marvin

• 85242 Answers
• Posted on Jul 28, 2008

SOURCE: 2004 F250 No brakelights/turn lights on trailer

You will need to get a 12 volt test light and check the trailer connector for a voltage signal to the trailer, it may also have seperate fuses under the hood for the trailer lights if the system is factory installed, federal law requires the 2 systems be isolated, if there are blown fuses find the short in the trailer before replacing fuse(s), with no exceptions the short is always in the trailer. Hint, check the fuses 1st.

SOURCE: plugging in trailer there are not running lights to trailer

Could be a bad ground. Check the bulbs too.

SOURCE: Wiring diagram for electric trailer plug at rear

yellow will be for a battery charge wire for the break away? read the plate on the plug , this is just a big 6 plug trailer plug but the put 1 in the center for back up lights.

SOURCE: I have an early 2004 dodge ram 2500 w/ 5.9. every

Sounds like it.

It's really the regulator board, and you may be able to get just a board. Check at you local auto parts house.

SOURCE: I have a 1997 Ford F150 4x4 Supercab Stepside with

It is a possible option that the relays for the Stop / Turn are having an issue or the fuse in the Engine Mini panel is blown ( page 142 of the 1997 owners manual )

On the 1997/98 MY this is in the aux relay box in between the Engine Compartment fuse panel and the engine mini fuse panel.


The output of the MFS ( Multifunction switch ) triggers the relays, to use the trailer tow fuse to operate the trailer lamps. The fuse to supply power to the Normally Open contacts on the trailer relays should be hot at all times. You can verify this with the diagram below by metering from pin #3 to pin # 2 [ground for coil] or to another known ground.

These are 1/2 size Ford ISO relays, and can be jumpered to make testing easier ( and with this diagram you can bench test them with a meter to check resistance over the Normally Open contacts, when applying power and ground to the coil ).


I am not 100% sure on the 97/98 MY F-150 about the location of this connector, but the 99-03 have all the wires to the rear of the truck via a connector along the driver's side frame rail, that you can check for ( easiest with the spare lowered )


Start with the Fuse in the Engine Mini panel, to see if the 20A fuse is good and work back towards the trailer tow adapter via the relays. I am going with the obvious blown fuse for the Stop/Turn lamps for the trailer.