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This is the turbo air cooler hose and most of them have some oil in them from the turbo. i would replace the hose and keep an eye on it, the problem may be a worn turbo. the turbo is sucking in oil, the turbo may need replacing but i would nt replace it right now, just replace the hose and keep an eye on the engine oil level, if the turbo is working and the engine is not using oil and you dont see smoke coming from the exhaust system when accelerating then just replace the hose for now, hope this helps.
This car has an oil-clutch fan that works faster with higher temperature. If the fan clutch is broken or has lost oil it may be not working at the speed required. I am sorry I do not know how to repair it. The manual recommends, once out of its axle, never to place the fan but in upright position (as in the car) to preserve the oil inside.
did you check your oil level??.if you put to much oil in the engine it cause a lot of damage.But if oil levels are ok,then the engine might be worn what mileage has it got if you think all this is ok ,then it could be a number of things,a blocked intake turbo pipe,a blocked air filter,oil cooler radiator needs power washed its in front of the main radiator,sender switch on the turbo,check these thing out and if you want to let me know the outcome,yours adrian,,,,,
well ok the part and gaskets if they dont come with them . oil for the turbo itself make sure you fill it before installing it attach the gaskets 1st though and let dry fill with oil and remove and reattach the new turbo
radiator antifreeze: open drain **** on radiator and drain refill with water re plug and leave radiator cap off. start vehicle. watch when coolant drops or rises drastically as that is the thermostat opening. at that time re open drain **** and fill radiator with hose water at the same time. when water coming out is completely clear again turn vehicle off and drain radiator again. fill with antifreeze and water mix. 50/50
oil: jack up car, find oil plug, directly behind steering rack on oil pan. undo plug and drain oil into container. while oil is draining remove oil filter. wait for oil to drain completely then re-install drain plug and new oil filter(filled with oil) undo oil cap and pour in oil 4.5 quarts on n/a and 5 for turbo. tighten cap and your done.
brake system: dont attempt, use an experienced mechanic as the lines need to be bled in numerous places including inside the car from the abs module mounted behind the passenger seat.
easy brake system: individually bleed brakes while adding fluid until clear fluid comes out. (not efficient)
a/c: do not attempt unless you have an evac pump for ac systems.
clutch: same as easy brake except using the bleed valves at the slave cylinder and on passenger side fender well.
washer fluid: add fluid and squirt a little to make sure there is no air in the line
Everyone always jumps to head gaskets. There are plenty of MINOR things that can be looked at first.
The Volvo 2.3, 2.4, 2.5 Inline 5 Cylinder dipstick tube is known to develop a large amount of condensationin winter months and stop and go driving. What you see on your dip stick is possibly just condensation. Take off your oil cap and look under the cap and inside the valve cover. Is there any thick foamy oatmeal like substance or noticeable amounts of water? If your oil was saturated with coolant, you would be able to see it up there too. Check your coolant for oil. Volvo coolant is typically brown to orange, however make sure there is no sludge. Start the car with the cap off and keep an eye out for alot of bubbles. A large amount of bubbles is a sign of a bad head gasket. A couple here and there is just air in your cooling system.
Coolant, Transmission fluid, and Oil have several places they can mix. If you have a turbocharged Volvo, the seals in the turbo can go bad and cause a mix of oil and coolant. Your transmission cooler is also in your radiator, and if it cracks your transmission fluid and coolant can mix. I believe turbo models have an oil cooler built into the radiator as well.
Overall if your car sounds fine, you dont see oatmeal, your not using coolant and oil in excessive amounts, dont have white smoke, and your turbo isnt whining you probably just have condensation in your dip stick. If you are overly concerned you can send a sample of your oil to a lab and have it tested for traces of coolant. Headgaskets rarely fail on Volvo's, even the old ones....I have seen many that have gone to replace them have not found a failed gasket and end up finding a bad transmission cooler or a bad turbo.
I hav'nt done one one that vehicle but there all bolted up pretty much the same.Disconnect the negative cable on your battery, take off the intake piping and airbox, airflow meter etc that comes off the turbo and anything alse on the turbo side that going to get in your way.There should be an oil line bolted to the top core which is oil in (most of these are metal so try not to bend them too much, it should be a bolt going through a round metal washer type pipe called a "banjo"be mindfull of the copper washers either side as they act like the gaskets, dont lose them) an oil drain underneath which will be a larger metal pippe inserted into a rubber one, just loosen the hose clamp on it and try break the seal by twsting the hose around a little(can be abit of a ***** sometimes) and leave it on as it'll come out when you lift the turbo out. Depending if its water cooled aswell it'l have two lines that look the same as the top oil one(same goes for the copper washers) each side,these should be metal lines also.Remove the bolts from the downpipe to the exhaust(you may have to do this from underneath)You should beable to see the 4 main bolts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold(most of which have locking washers underneath) remove the bottom ones first as its easier to hold the weight of the turbo while undoing the top ones. The turbo should now be free of everything bar the oil return underneath, since you loosend the hose clamp and freed the pipe up it should lift out with abit of angle changing(depending on room) leaving the oil return pipe sticking up ( as its eaiser to get it back on the new turbo like this). Install in reverse order and dont forget the copper washers as oil/coolant will pour out if not used. I hope this helps as im not the fastest typer and took me a while lol. P,S the hardest part of this work is the room you have to work with so watch you knuckles/hands. Good luck.
Sounds like the bearings in your turbo, or your return pipe for the turbo is blocked and oil is building up to the point of leaking out the bearings into the exhaust.Let me know :)
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