Left rear spring came off bottom perch. rusted. left rear tire jammed into wheel well. jacked it up but wheel will not come down. could the track bar be bent? what else could be wrong? is this fixable? the other side was welded 4 years ago. also the spring is still attached to the top. the car's engine is running good. it has 130,000 miles on it. need suggestions.

Sounds like your rear track bar. Definitely should not drive the car until repairs have been made.

My guess is that the brakes are jammed cause of humidity and rust from being sitting without moving for 6 months. I've seen pretty bad cases of this where a 3 foot bar was needed to unjam the brakes. Good way to test real fast if this is the case is to jack the car up with a floor jack to get a tire off the ground, and then try to spin it by hand with the brakes off, handbrake down and vehicle in neutral. The differentials should allow one wheel to spin freely, if it does not then probably the brakes are jammed like i said. If you want to be sure it really is the brakes, just take off the caliper and pads. Once they are removed the wheel will spin normally and you will see the rust spot where the pads were. Keep in mind though that most rear wheel brakes are drums and not discs, so they don't have calipers and can't check them easily. Only take appart drum brakes if you have done this before and know what you are doing, cause in some cases you need special tools or procedures to take off the drum, and the linings inside have alot of springs and hardware that need to be placed exactly or else the vehicle won't brake normally from the rear.

have both side rewelded

It could be many things. I'd start by putting the car on four jack stands and try to spin the wheel and listen to the bearings. See if the wheel has play in it by putting a large bar under the tire and moving the tire up and down and seeing if there is an amount of play or "klunking" during the movement. Then remove the wheel, inspect the inside the rim and see if there are metal shavings anywhere on the rim or the brake drum. Then and then remove the brake drum and see if the springs and "bits" are in the proper places or laying in the bottom of the drum. Check the play on the wheel bearings by flexing the axle shaft. There could be shock issues or loose or missing support straps or rusted out frame parts. Good luck.

Frame could be twisted from a previous wreck, the rubber isolators for the cab shell to frame could be dry rotting or in an area rusting out. Was it ever crashed- anti sway bar might reveal a twist)? Core support might be twisted. Other suspension components may be dry rotting or worn. Front tires may also be two different sizes overall.

New springs replaced pairs would be a better solution than spacers if evertything tracks back to spring height issues. You may also have some cracked leaves in the rear springs as well.

Have you checked the ride height and made those adjustments yet?

The first thing I would check is for a bad wheel bearing. If the noise lessens when turning left than I would look at the left front first. Chalk the rear wheels or set the emergency brake. Put the transmission in neutral. Jack up the left side of the car. Grab the coil spring and rotate the tire by hand. If you can feel/hear the noise than your on the right track with the bad wheel bearing. I can give you instructions on how to replace if you need them.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

If your car is front wheel drive, this probably means one of three things. 1. Your axle is bent, and you need to have it replaced. This would probably cause a bouncing motion in your car as you are driving. 2. Your suspension parts are bad on that wheel. For this you can take a look without removing any parts from the car. Just look behind the wheel at the spring that is there. Is the spring broken? Your car will probably be sitting very low on that corner if this is the case. If t is not your spring, there should be a shock or strut (just looks like a hydraulic tube either in the middle of the spring, or right next to it. Is this part fully compressed? If so, you will need it replaced ... if not, then you have a different issue. 3. Your tire might not be bolted on as tightly as it should be. Jacking up the car and tightening the lug nuts will fix this problem.
The only other thing I could think it would be (which is very unlikely considering that it is a rear tire) would be tie-rod ends. The way to check this is to jack up the car and push on the tire -- top and bottom, then left and right. If the lug nuts are tight, and the tire moves up and down or left and right, then you probably have bad tie-rod ends and they will need to be replaced. This is VERY unlikely on the rear tires of a car because the tie rods are a part of the steering system. The only car that I have heard of that COULD have this issue would be a Honda Prelude 4WS (it has steering parts on all 4 wheels -- 4ws = 4 wheel steering).
If none of these are the problem, you might have a bent rim, but this is also VERY unlikely, because a rim bent enough to notice visually will usually not hold a tire.

There is no alignment provision on that axle. If your tires are wearing on the inside, the axle housing is bent and needs replacement. If one tire is further back than the other, check the pin that goes through the spring, into the locating hole in the spring perch welded to the axle. If that pin shears or rusts away, the axle can move out of position. If the vehicle has been raised, you can get wedge shims to install between the spring and perch to restore the proper pinion angle in relation to the transmission.
Doing that will lessen chances of snapping driveshaft joints.

Rear Axle Notes

1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove rear wheels.
3. Scribe alignment marks on propeller shaft and axle for proper assembly, then disconnect propeller shaft from axle.
4. Disconnect the track bar from axle mounting bracket.
5. Disconnect parking brake cable at equalizer.
6. Disconnect shock absorbers at axle tubes.
7. Disconnect hydraulic brake hose at rear axle Tee-fitting, then tape ends of hose and fitting to prevent contamination.
8. Disconnect axle vent tube from axle.
9. Remove U-bolts and tie plates.
10. Loosen spring mounting bolts.
11. If equipped, disconnect ABS wiring connections at axle.
12. Support axle with suitable jack.
13. Remove spring-to-shackle attaching bolts and lower spring to the floor.
14. Remove axle assembly.
15. Reverse procedure to install.

Front Axle Notes

1. Raise and support vehicle at frame behind front springs.
2. Remove front wheels.
3. Scribe alignment marks on propeller shaft and axle yoke for proper assembly, then disconnect propeller shaft at axle yoke.
4. Disconnect connecting rod at steering knuckles.
5. Disconnect shock absorbers at axle housing.
6. Remove stabilizer bar connecting links to spring tie plates attaching bolts, if equipped.
7. Disconnect breather tube at axle housing.
8. Disconnect stabilizer bar link bolts at spring clips.
9. Remove disc brake calipers, rotors and brake shields.
10. Remove U-bolts and tie plates.
11. Support axle assembly with suitable jack to relieve spring tension.
12. Loosen rear spring shackle to spring attaching bolts.
13. Remove front spring shackle to spring attaching bolts and lower spring to floor.
14. Remove axle from under vehicle.
15. Reverse procedure to install.

check to see if the rear tires are making contact with the rear struts or springs, sometimes if you tow a heavy load with these cars it bends the spring perchs down and they rub on the inside tread of the tire, also be sure you have the right tire size on the car please rate -jeff