Right off idle truck stumbles and will die if you dont work the throttle in neutral or drive have changed tpi. distributor. plugs plugs wires the idle control valve in the throttle body and throttle body gasket no help also the service engine light is not on

You either have a defective idle speed control valve or you have a huge vacuum leak on the engine like an intake manifold or warped throttle valve or throttle bore opening around the throttle valve, I have seen both...

fuel filter,coils module.

Maybe a bad idle air controller on the throttle body. That is used to keep the car idling right when stopped.

check for any loose wires near battery or alternator, O2 would give you crappy gas mileage, check TPS sensor(throttle position sensor)

Repalce the throttle position sensor it is most likely faulty, the sensor is located opposite of the throttle valve it has a few wires going into it.

change your distributor cap.

SOUNDS LIKE A VACUM LEAK,POSSIBLY INTAKE GASKET OR VACUM HOSES,GET SOME BERKIBLE 2+2 SPRAY DOWN INTAKES WHERE MEET HEAD AROND THROTTLE BODY AND ALSO EGR VALVE TO MAKE SURE IT ISN'T PARTAILY STUCK OPEN, VACUM LINES AIR INTAKE HOSE BETWEEN THROTTLE BODY AND AIR FLOW METER,ALSO MAKE SURE ITS NOT DRY ROTTED AND SUCKING AIR,THE ENGINE IDLE SHOULD GO UP OR DOWN DEPENDING HOW BIG THE LEAK

Check your fuel pressure, the regulator is on top right where the fuel lines connect to the fuel rail.

try replacing the coil, my 2.5 did the same thing, and after changing plugs,wires,distributor,rotor,rotor button . the last thing i repalced was the coil and i have not had an issue since. all work was done about 6 months ago.

my 1988 mazda 626 starts okay then dies everytime it idles down to normal idle speed. i replaced the throttle control sensor and the mass air sensor. i replaced the rotor in the distributor but is still dies. if you throttle up to about 1500 rpm it keeps running. any ideas???