Question about 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty Super Cab

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Instructions for replacing cruise control switch

Instructions for removing and replacing plastic cruise control switch housing at the end of the gear shift on 2001 ford f250 7.3 diesel.

It broke at the seam and is now taped together.

cruise control works fine but if not taped just dangles by cruise control wires.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: cruise control won't work

Does the on light in the dash come on? If not, you may have a broken switch in the steering wheel which is a fairly cheap repair. Otherwise, the controls work through the Printed Circuit Board in your dash (your instrument cluster) and the problem could be as simple as a solder defect or faulty component. The problem is that no Ford Service Technician that I know will touch this and tell you that you need to replace it.

The instrument cluster is very easy to replace but may cost you a few more dollars than you want to spend. I would have someone with an electrical background check the cruise control switches in your steering wheel with a multimeter before going any further with this. Also check the wiring for resistance leading from the switch to the cluster.

Posted on Aug 06, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: cruise control

I had the same problem on mine - just check the end of the cruise control cable under the big plastic cover of the engine. good luck!

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

ZJLimited

ZJ Limited

  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing a Cruise Control Switch

Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
Steering Wheel
Removal & Instalation

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Fig. 1: Remove the access covers for the air bag module retaining bolts

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Fig. 2: Remove the air bag retaining bolts and...

d0a0934.gif

Fig. 3: Carefully remove the air bag from the steering wheel to access the wiring connectors

3344f1a.gif

Fig. 4: Detach the connectors...

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Fig. 5: ... from the air bag module

6e8ff5b.gif

Fig. 6: Remove the center bolt from the steering wheel

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Fig. 7: Install a suitable puller and tighten the forcing screw to...

4b45cbd.gif

Fig. 8: ... remove the steering wheel


CONTINUE...

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

Philip Armitage

  • 437 Answers

SOURCE: the horn and cruise control doesn't work,fuses are

the horn input to ground is located in the cruise control module. if they both don't work then your cruise control module or the clockspring coil for the steering wheel needs to be replaced. If airbag lights is on as well then I would change the clockspring coil first.

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

Anonymous

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: How do you remove the gear shift lever on a 93 ford ranger?

many of these trucks have a mazda trans in them, to remove these shifters you will need to remove the 4 phillips head screws from the corners of the trim around the shifter boot and pull it up out of your way. it's not necessary to remove the boot from the shifter, just lift it up for access to the top of the trans. at the base of the shifter on the top of the trans you will see a plate attached with torx head screws. remove all but 2 of them, now make sure the trans is in neutral and remove the last 2 screws and pull the shifter straight up. the shifter is now out leaving a big hole open on the top of the trans for dirt to fal into so put a wrag in it or screw a piece of cardboard to it. installation is the reverse. good luck

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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How do i Reconnect the speedo cable on my 1978 GMC Truck with 350 motor, 4x4?


Depending on which end needs to be reattached, At the Speedometer Head or at the Transfer Case, or at the Cruise Control Module (if equipped with Cruise Control).

At the Transfer Case : Underneath the truck, on the left side of the transfer case, near the tail housing/rear of the transfer case (if it's a NP203 or NP205), there should be a small rectangular box threaded onto the transfer case, the other end (facing away from the transfer case) has a threaded end on it where you'll thread the end of the speedometer cable on.

At the Speedometer : Behind the instrument cluster, protruding from the back of the speedometer, is a round male port that the speedometer cable snaps onto. You just push it onto the back of the speedometer and it locks into place. Some cables have a metal end for the Speedometer end, some have a plastic end. The ones with the plastic end will sometimes break and won't stay locked in place at the speedometer.

If it's equipped with Cruise Control, you'll have 2 Speedometer Cables, an Upper Cable (From the Cruise Control Module to the Speedometer) and a Lower Cable (from the Transfer Case to the Cruise Control Module.) Both ends of the Lower Cable have Female Threaded ends (one to thread onto the box on the side of the transfer case, one to thread onto the Cruise Control). The Upper Cable has one threaded end and one Clip On/Press On end. Reconnecting the cable is the same as the methods I mentioned above, but with 2 additional threaded connections on to the Cruise Control Module (which is usually found on the Fenderwell in the engine compartment)

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Cruise controls can cease to engage if the clutch or brake light cruise switch are out of adjustment. If this happens, try placing you foot under the clutch pedal (if equipped) and lift up on it (toward you) and hold it while engaging the cruise. If it now works, it will likely cut out when you remove your foot from under the pedal. Check the brake pedal in an identical fashion. Adjusting the switch at the pedals can often solve he problem. Some vehicles (Honda, Acura, Ford, to name a few) have a plastic insert that mounts in the pedal arm which presses against the switch. These can become brittle and fracture into pieces. My Acura has little pieces of blue plastic on the floorboard around the brake pedal one afternoon and I noticed the cruise didn't work. It was the pieces of the insert that had come to pieces preventing the cruise from coming on. I replaced the insert and no more problem with the cruise.

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According with the repairt guide, check this porocedure to REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
zjlimited_2034.jpg

Fig. Exploded view of the starter motor mounting - 5S-FE engine shown, others similar (click image for zoom)

  1. On some early models with cruise control, you may have to remove the battery.
  2. Also on some models with cruise control, remove the actuator cover and disconnect the wiring harness. Remove the three bolts and then lift out the cruise control actuator. Remove the bracket from beneath the actuator and put aside.
  3. Peel the rubber boot away and remove the nut and disconnect the negative battery cable from the magnetic switch terminal on the starter. Disconnect the electrical connector also located on the magnetic switch.
  4. Support the starter by hand and remove the two mounting bolts.
  5. Remove the starter from the transaxle.
To install:
  1. Place the starter motor in the transaxle and support by hand.
  2. Install the two mounting bolts and tighten them to 29-31 ft. lbs. (39-42 Nm).
  3. Connect the connector to the magnetic switch. Place the battery cable on the switch terminal and install the nut. Tighten the nut and position the rubber boot over the cable.
  4. Using the ignition switch, "bump" the starter over a few times and check for proper operation.

SOLENOID OR RELAY REPLACEMENT
The starter solenoid (magnetic switch) is an integral part of the starter assembly.
  1. Remove the starter from the car. Remove the heat insulator from the starter assembly, if equipped.
  2. Disconnect the wire lead from the magnetic switch terminal.
  3. Remove the two long, through bolts holding the field frame to the magnetic switch. Pull out the field frame with the armature from the magnetic switch.
  4. On 1.0 kW starters, remove the felt seal. On 1.4 kW starters, remove the O-ring.
  5. To remove the starter housing from the magnetic switch assembly:
    1. On 1.0 kW starters, remove the two screws and the starter housing with the idler gear and clutch assembly.
    2. On 1.4 kW units, remove the two screws and the starter housing with the pinion gear, idler and clutch assembly.
To install:
  1. If necessary, install the gears and clutch assembly to the starter housing. Apply grease to the gear and clutch assemblies and:
    1. On 1.0 kW starters, place the clutch assembly, idler gear and bearing in the starter housing.
    2. On 1.4 kW starters, place the clutch assembly, idler gear, bearing and pinion gear in the starter housing.

  2. Insert the spring into the clutch shaft hole and place the starter housing onto the magnetic switch. Install the two screws.
  3. On 1.0 kW units, install the felt seal on the armature shaft. On 1.4 kW units, install the O-ring on the field frame.
  4. Install the field frame with the armature onto the magnetic switch assembly and install the two through bolts.
NOTE There is a protrusion or tab on each part; make sure you line them up correctly.
  1. Connect the wire to the terminal on the magnetic switch. Install the heat insulator, if equipped.
  2. Reinstall the starter on the vehicle. Check starter system for proper operation.
Hope this helps (remember to rating and leave a testimonial comment about this answer).

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3. Remove 2 screws on the bottom of the steering wheel cover. The wires need to slide out so the switch can be removed.
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