Brake peddle is chattering 2003 ion and would like to pull the anti lock brake fuse (if safe ) until i can afford the repair. I would like to know witch fuse to pull?ABS is on and traction control

yes your right it's abs kicking in , if you look on control moudule next to or just below master cylinder there will be a 2-3 wire plug ,pull it off and see how brakes react DONT TEST THIS ON ROAD ,try it in a safe place at controlled safe speeds if they seam to work fine your abs control module has problems when you do this your ABS light will come on .hope I helped .

you need to bleed your brakes.Here's how. Repair Guides Anti lock Brake System Bleeding The Abs System AutoZone...

It sounds like you either have an anti lock brake sensor issue or, if you have the traction control option, try pressing the button in the dashboard that turns it off. It is the one labeled "T/C". In some Fords, there is a lamp in the gauge / speedometer area that will light when it is deactivated. If this is the problem, The way the traction control works is the anti lock brake sensors sense the speed that the wheels are turning. If one front wheel begins to turn faster than the other, (not including when turning around), the computer will sense this difference in speed and apply the brake to the faster wheel which, in turn, forces more power / speed to the opposite wheel through the differential gear action that drives both wheels. This is done in hopes that the other wheel is on drier or more solid ground. If both wheels slip alternately back and forth and it won't pull the vehicle out of snow, ice or sand, DO NOT keep trying as you will damage the drive train. This is for momentary use only. If one wheel begins to slip and the other one starts to pull you out, keep going but DO NOT over-rev the engine. if it starts moving, keep it at a steady speed. faster is NOT better. Anyway when the traction control kicks in, It sounds like a machine gun under the hood because the brake isn't applied at a steady rate but is "pumped" by the anti lock motor in action similar but opposite to the anti lock brakes so it doesn't burn up the brakes or differential gear set.
In the case of the anti lock brakes, if you step on the brake and a wheel locks on ice or oil the anti lock system REDUCES the braking action to the stopped wheel so that it will keep turning reducing the possibility of loosing control of the car.
If it is an anti lock brake problem, open the hood. On the driver's side is a long black plastic box containing plastic fuses and relays. There should be a diagram inside the top that tells you what fuse / relay goes to what. Find the fuse labeled "anti lock". If it isn't there, check the fuse block under the dashboard on the driver's side. Pull this fuse and go for a ride. It is OK to drive this way as the brakes revert back to the way they used to be before they had anti lock. Just be careful on ice, wet roads or oil slicks as the brakes WILL lock the way they used to. In either case, it may be a broken, worn out, loose or missing anti lock sensor. If you are in the mood to crawl around on the ground, look behind each wheel, (even in the rear as these can throw the system off too), there should be a thin wire leading,
probably near the top in the back of each brake setup. Run your fingers in toward the brake end and try to move the sensor. If they are all in place and not loose, one is probably defective. As I said before either pull the fuse or press the "T/C" button. which ever works for you is safe to drive until you can get it fixed. Here's an insurance tip / disclaimer. Tip for you, disclaimer for me: If you have these systems disabled and you get into an accident that might have been prevented by this system and the insurance adjuster catches it, your insurance CAN REFUSE to pay your claim. They know what extras you have in your vehicle by your VIN or Vehicle Identification Number. They put into their computer and Ford comes back with things like AM-FM radio, weather or not it's cassette or CD, HIgh end or standard, Automatic or standard trans, Anti theft system, one, two or all around air bags, Anti lock brakes, Traction Control ect... This is how they set your rates, how they know how safe the vehicle in an accident and how safe the occupants are. If they catch a missing fuse. Bang, you bought it. My father wiped out what looked like a priemo 1968 Corvette. The ins. adjuster was ready to cut the owner a check for $32,000. He noticed that the engine had a shiney new EGR valve sticking out from under the shiney chrome air cleaner. Can anyone tell me what was wrong with this picture? GM didn't start installing EGR valves until the early 1970's. That $23.00 new
EGR valve cost the Vette owner $16,000!!! If he had installed a 1968 intake manifold, he might have gotten away with it.
He was representing it on the claim as completely restored. Completely restored doesn't include installing a 1973 engine in a 1968 car!!! Moral? They will look and they are trained to see every little thing so keep your car original at least where safety is concerned. I'm going to bed now so good luck. Jeff M.

Your brakes must be completely worn down to the metal.
Do not drive this car again until you have new brakes fitted

Peddle jumping is your anti lock brakes activating. Rumbling could be anti lock recycling or your brakes are grinding and need replacing

ANTI LOCK BRAKE LIGHT.MEANS ANTI LOCK BRAKES NOT WORKING.CHECK ABS FUSE AND RELAY.IF ALL IS GOOD.HAVE THE ABS BRAKE SYSTEM CODE SCAN.NOT SAFE TO KEEP DRIVING.HAVE FIX QUICK AS POSSIBLE.BECAUSE THE ABS BRAKE UNIT IS PART OF YOUR MAIN BRAKING SYSTEM.IF ABS BRAKE UNIT BAD BY BEING PART OF THE MASTERCYLINDER IT CAN CAUSE COMPLETE BRAKE FAILURE.

There are 3 fuses related to the problems you mentioned. fuse #13 20amp for the stop lights/fuse #15 5amp for the generic elec. module/powertrain ctl.
module/anti lock brake module and one you need the
shift interlock. Fuse # 28 10amp for the brk. shift
interlock/day running lights/bu lamp/tlr bu lamp and
4wd shift on the fly solenoid. The fuse block is behind
the panel on the left lower dash. You can check these fuse's first. But also, use a 12v test light to
check for power out of the bl switch on top of the
brake peddle assy. There is a red/lt green wire from
the bl switch into the colum to the shift lock actuator
check for power at this wire with brake peddle pushed
down. If the fuse's are good but no pwr. out of the
switch, replace the switch. Hope this helps.

dealerships are usually very helpful with pulling the codes and unlocking it. Catch them on a good day and they may do if for free. if not they usually charged about $60..

This is likely a wheel sensor problem, which when it fails, the car goes into a limp mode. Allowing you to drive it safely until you can get it repaired.

Good Day,

Usually that indicates bad ABS sensor or ABS component in the system. The quick fix is to locate the ABS fuse in your fuse panel, remove this fuse and abs is disabled. Your brake will function normal and it is safe to drive w/o abs until you can have it checked out, keep in mind you will lock you brakes under heavy braking conditions.

hope this helps