How to remove radiator

There is a very detailed write up here:
http://www.impalaforums.com/diy-do-it-yourself-how-to/239662-radiator-replacement-visual-walkthrough.html
The radiator is the same for both the 3.4 and 3.8 engines as well as various other GM vehicles around the same year. The cheapest radiator I was able to find was from Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IYPQXO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref%5F=oh%5Faui%5Fdetailpage%5Fo00%5Fs00&pldnSite=1
It's a fairly simple process, my 17 yr old son was able to do it all by himself. Don't forget to buy new radiator coolant and some Transmission fluid as you will lose about a quart worth when you pull the old transmission out.

You may need to loosen a heater hose and run the engine until all the air is out. Don't scald yourself!

Just long enough for car to cool sufficiently so you don't burn your fingers or get splashed in face by steam when removing radiator cap. 10-15 minutes?
Is this new antifreeze you are putting in? Or just topping off your system? If you are just topping off your coolant, put the solution in the overflow tank beside your radiator. Then you don't need to take radiator cap off or let the car cool down first.

Probably has a cover underneath the radiator.Remove this carefully and remember how to put it back on. The drain is a whitish plug on the driver's side of the radiator. Now when I put my Daughter-in-law's cover back on, I sawed a hole directly underneath the drain plug for future access,which FORD should have already done.don-ohio

Sounds like you have a busted radiator. Its leaking from the motor coolant to the transmission coolant inside the radiator.

Hello: Yes, There should be a rubber gasket on the drain plug. It must of come off when you removed the plug. I don't think you can just purchase the gasket by itself, you might can purchase a new drain plug at a Auto Parts Store or at a GM dealership. Check the drain pan you used to drain the radiator it might still be in there. Normally you don,t have to completely remove the plug to drain the radiator.

IN THE MITCHELL MANUAL THEY SAY REMOVE THE FAN CLUTCH ASSY AND MOVE THE CONDENSER OUT THE WAY WHICH MEANT PRYING THE CONDENSER OUT OF THE HOUSING. WHAT I DID WAS EVACUATE THE AC SYSTEM AND REMOVED THE RADIATOR AND THE CONDENSER HAS ONE UNIT. I HAD THE WHOLE UNIT OUT IN 25 MINUTES AND PUTTING THE NEW RADIATOR IN WAS SIMPLE. I DID NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE FAN CLUTCH.. ONCE DONE ALL I DID WAS RECHARGE THE AC SYSTEM. TRYING TO DO THIS IN THE VEHICLE WAS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE. HOPE THIS HELPS.

Its easy follow the top radiator hose back to the engjne to the goose neck the t.stat is under this part Drain some antifreeze from radiator you don;t have to drain itall out Remove clamp from hose to goose neck Remove bolts holding neck on you will lose a little antifreeze in the prosses Claen all old gasket meterial off bolth sides this is important it must be clean Remove old t.stat check the tempature stamped on t.stat replace with the same or similar temp you don;t change this to much Install new t.stat and gasket you can use a sealer it won;t hurt Install goose neck but don;t over tighten you can crack the neck 10 to 12 ft lbs is all you need BUT THE T.STAT IS NOT USELY NOT THE PROBLEM WITH COOLING SYSTEMS you can try back flushing the system and putting new antifreeze first this may solve your over heating problem

any full size GM truck with a 5.7L should work. from 1988 up to???? some trucks had a oil cooler, it hooks up to the left radiator tank.

You will need to Remove the top panel that Covers the Fan Shroud. Also remove the Fan Shroud. You will be able to see the rest of the Mounting bolts for the Radiator from there.