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so left front blinkers fail or not.????? other shoe drops.
fuses blown
wires a mangled LR
lamp socket there a mess.
trailer hitch wires hacked in hear still a mess as all hacks are.
grounds to LR is bad or rusty or mangled wires ground.
Does your trailer have a braked trailer hitch?see http://www.angleseymarinesupplies.com/resources/2000KG%20BRAKED%20TOWING%20HITCH%20KNOTT%20AVONRIDE.jpg.opt372x176o0,0s372x176.jpg The wire runs from the hitch to the rear wheels of the trailer and is activated by a spring in the hitch which gets compressed when the vehicle brakes.
Yes, you need the other wires to provide the trailer with battery voltage. If the trailer has trailer brakes, you should have an RV mechanic wire up the connector so the brakes on the trailer operate from the Ford.
You have one of two problems. Either there is a bad ground on your tailer, or the vehicle side trailer connection is bad. The Sport Trac is a 2 wire system and does not require a converter it would only need a 4-flat hardwired in. If you have a 3-2 converter installed good chance that is the problem seeing that the stop and turn wires on the input side would be wired to the same wire, which would explain the turn signals going off when the brake is depressed. If you have a converter installed simply ground the brake lead on the input side of the converter and your problem should be resolved.
For more hitch and wiring information please click here.
Sometime around 2000, GM started putting trailering pre-wire harnesses in the vehicle. Your truck may have this harness built in and would greatly simplify brake controller installation. Look under the glovebox and see if there is a wire harness tied off. There will be four wires in this harness, which should be run over to the steering column to use it. Most trailer brake controllers are compatible with this harness.
The four wires in the harness are: Red, 12vdc; black, ground; blue or purple, brake pedal; and brown or white, trailer brake wire to seven pin, four pin, or five pin connector at trailer hitch, if your truck came from the factory with a trailer hitch.
If you are adding the hitch and do not have the four wire harness, the under hood wires from your brake controller are Red, connect to one of the studs under the distribution box cover (the distribution box is on the driver's side against the firewall. Underneath the cover are two large threaded studs which are hot from the battery all the time); and the other wire from your brake controller would have to be run the length of the truck along the frame, tied off in several places, to the trailer hitch connector on the bumper. Follow the directions that came with trailer hitch wiring connector to connect this wire to the proper pin in the connector.
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Good luck!
The brake lights (excluding the 3rd brake light) go through the turn signal switch. It's possible there's a bad connection in the switch causing your symptoms. I would rule out the brake switch on the pedal, considering the third brake light works. Locate a wiring diagram for the brake light circuit, follow the wires into the steering column as far as you can and verify it's getting power up until the turn signal switch and verify no power is coming out of it. Once that's determined it's time to replace the switch.
The trailer harness that was installed probably has a short inside the box that distributes power to the trailer pig-tail. Remove the trailer harness. You problem will be cured.
I take it the blinkers and brake lights work ok when not hooked up to the trailer? If yes, then the wiring to the tow hitch is not hooked up correctly. How many wires to trailer pig tail connection? U can have up to 7 depending on what you tow. Check to make sure these wires are hooked up from the truck to tow plug correctly: 7 wired--- brown-Rt turn and brake light, yellow-backup, white-ground, blue-electric brake, green-tail running lights, black-battery charger, red-left turn signal and brake light. Let me know if u have something other than 7 wire, I'll get the wiring color and source info for u.
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