Does the 2003 gmc yukon have rear rotors? and do the brakes need to be changed if the rotors need to be machined?

Brake rotor and front or rear?

Okay, remove the wheel then remove the brake caliper and move to side do not allow to hang on the brake hose, use a hook to hang off spring or set aside. next remove the caliper bracket, two bolts at rear of bracket to remove it.
next you will use a hammer to remove the rotor.

NOTE: the way the brake rotor was designed was a bad one the hub in which the rotor slides over and the wheel studs slide into holes on the rotor is bad the hub diameter is almost the same size as the diameter of the seat of the rotor that slide over the hub and what happens is sometimes the rust build up on the rotor seat locks the brake rotor on the hub. i do not know if you are reusing the rotors or replacing them, no sure what job you are doing . the rotors to take off you will need to tap on the rear of them with a little force and turn, hit and turn. you will need to see if they break free or if hard beating and spraying into the rear of them is needed with wd40.
Alot of these rotors also have two threaded hole on the face of the rotor near the studs so that you can screw two bolts into holes to help pull them. use wire to tie caliper up and also use a c-clamp to push piston into calipe to remove caliper if needed, Do not remove brake hose, there is no need to open system, here is a picture of the rotor coming of the hub, also there may be clips on the stud holding rotor on remove them use cutters or pry off do not need to reuse , they are to help in holding the rotor on during asm, if you want you can buy them and reinstall them but never reuse them.

Of course they should have checked the parking brakes too. On the Yukon XL, the parking brakes are brake shoes that operate inside of a drum that is molded to the interior side of the rear disc brake rotors. I would take it back to the shop and voice my frustration if I were you and tell them that you feel they should do the parking brakes at no charge for your time and aggravation. They were right there to replace them if they re-surfaced your rotors anyway!

they should not have to be changed if they have good depth to them bad rotor will make you have a bounching feeling when brakeing

W hen the rear work fasterr than the front or any wheel grabs faster then you need to check the brake hoses. In your case the front brake hoses could be starting to clog up. they deteriorate from the inside and collapse

I everything is out of the way and the rotor is ready to look like it should fall off, then it will, just follow these easy steps.You will need to make sure the keeper washers are removed from the lugstuds, and then you will be needing an at least two pound sledge.Swiftly hit the rotor on the face, not the braking contact surface area, and walk it around, then it will simply fall off, I hope I could help.Thanks, and rate me accordingly!!

calipher just unbolts.. Might need a 1/2 inch breaker bar and I think a 21 or 22 mm socket.. There on quite tight.

they may be asking you either the diameter of the rotor in inches or maybe the diameter of the wheel studs that go through the rotor in milimeters

ALWAYS replace pads and/or shoes in pairs .. the fact that one side is so much more worn than the other is a RED flag .. you may have frozen caliper ..

Your ABS sensor in the front left wheel is bad, this may also meen your wheel bearing is gone. Jack up that side and put you hands on the top and bottom of tire then shake it. if the tire moves alot you need to replace the wheel bearing.