Lots of possibilities
in no particular order...
However, based on the low idle and slow acceleration I am leading towards the MAF
Have you been to the parts store and replaced anything yet?
Has anyone "pulled" codes?
Please update and let me know how else I can assist you today!
Sean
I changed the MAF and IAC with no results So I will try to get it into town and get the codes pulled. If I really push it I might be able to get this car up to 50 in a mile stretch of road, it is bad.
starting to sound more and more like an exhaust restriction
start the car and using a rag, cover the tailpipe and see if you keep it there without blowing away
if not...then restriction is our cause
the only true way to test for restriction is to use a vacuum gauge...do you have one?
Sean
Could the catalytic converter be plugged?
Took off the codes this morning and the only thing there was primary and secondary coil. I changed it and got no results
Took off the codes this morning and the only thing there was primary and secondary coil. I changed it and got no results
I took off the codes this morning and got primary and secondary coil reading. I changed the coil but it did not fix the problem.
primary and secondary codes indicates that the PCM is not sensing the correct voltage to and from the coil
replacing the coil will not help
however, you can also get this code for base engine issues
at this point... with all the possible concerns you have you may find better resolution by dropping the exhaust prior to the cat and see if this changes anything
will do it, nothing like consuming a great holiday.
The rag gets blown out of the muffler every time and by when i disconnect the Catalytic converter the performance doesnt change. Here are three suggestion from the guys at the parts store.
1. The fuel pump is working at half speed
2. The computer is in "limp" mode?
3. I disconnected the battery so the computer has to "get to know it self." Where is Dr Phil when you really need him?
Would the egr valve show up on the codes?
all possibilities
except the limp mode... Ford does not use this
so now you need to get to the part store and buy a fuel pressure gauge
I'll know latter after I look up the specs but if I remember correctly fuel pressure should be 35-45psi engine running
but more importantly that actual pressure will be flow
therefore make sure you buy a fuel pressure gauge that has a "bleed valve" so that you can test flow!!!
as for egr... I've see bad valves set no codes and I've seen good egr's set code
to rule it out, just unbolt it from the intake and retest
and finally... disconnected the PCM may make the problem better or worse
when you disconnect the PCM to remove all the stored trim data
I've seen this cause a no start afterward
for example...
if your vehicle is running super lean, the fuel trims will be at max +25
disconnecting the PCM clears these back to 0
as I tell all my auto students in my high school...."Welcome to Auto!"
While I am sure you would rather be at the beach or something today, the good news is that you are learning a LOT!
Sean
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Check your air filter first. If the light isn't on check the egr valve (super simple, it's on youtube). If your check engine light is on then get the codes read and it will probably be a MAF sensor issue or possibly and idle air control sensor. These can both be related with exhaust gas regulation systems (egr). Either way it's good to get that checked out every 100k or so.
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The fuel pump is not a problem and I changed the throttle position sensor this morning with out to much success. Is there a delay in the computer response to changes that i make on the motor? Some one told me that I could reset the computer by disconnecting the power of a minute. Is this true?
I guess all that is left is the EGR.
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