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probably. The entire system relies on wheel speed sensors, steering wheel position sensor, yaw and lateral acceleration sensors. When one has a problem, it shuts down the entire system and turns on all the lights. It also sets a a trouble code. Get the trouble code read. That's your starting point.
Motor Mounts
Transaxle Mounts
Front CV Drive Axles
Loose or Worn Front Suspension Parts
Steering Rack Mounts
Steering Rack Inner Tie Rods
Top Bearing Plates on Struts
Do Some Front Brake Work
Put key in ignition and turn forward to start electrical system, but not the engine. Turn key back one click. Push the button on the alarm box under the steering wheel (sometimes by parking break) three times (3x) You will hear two beeps of the horn confirming the change. You are done.
built into the brake pads is a small bit of metal that when the pads get to low to be safe , runs on the rotor and produces the squeal applying the brakes stops the vibration so the noise drops off
While driving and with radio off, listen to the noise. Find a road that is clear on which you can drive without any traffic. Drive at a constant speed and make light shifts to the left and right, by doing this, the weight of the vehicle will shift to the apposite side of the steering wheel to which you turn.
When you turn to the left, the weight goes to the right (passenger side) wheel, if the noise stops, you may have a bad wheel bearing.
When you turn to the right, the weight goes to the left (driver side), if the noise stops, you may have a bad wheel bearing.
If the noise does NOT go away, then you may have bad CV's.
Another way to check is by lifting and securing in jack stands. Vehicle in neutral and with your hands, rotate wheel with one hand. Other hand place on suspension component. Spring of strut. If you feel slight vibration, you may have a bad wheel bearing.
With vehicle on jack stands, one hand on top of wheel and other on bottom, try to see if you can move the wheel in and out which may be a had CV.
To fix your problem, you have to turn the steering wheel either to the
left or right as much as you can, then try to turn the key in the
ignition. When the steering wheel locks, the key won't turn. By manually
holding the steering wheel out of the lock position, the key will turn
again and you're steering column will be back to normal.
This sounds like it should be a warranty issue due to the year of the vehicle and the mileage.. It sounds like a bearing or the universal joint in the steering column is worn prematurely. I am assuming the noise is coming from the steering column and not from one or both of the half shafts on your front axle. There is a chance the noise could be from the canceling mechanism for the turn signal, but I think it would be worth having it looked at by your dealer. Hope that helps.
Sounds crazy, but you may have way too much air pressure in the front tires. IIRC, the tire manufacturer calls for about 36 lbs of pressure, but the little sticker on the B pillar of the drivers side says something like 26 lbs.
If you're over-inflated, the wheels may be slipping upon hard acceleration, causing the movement "to the side" that you are experiencing. Then, the back wheel(s) attempt to grip, and that corrects the "slide".
It's a real funky AWD system, and most of the time the back wheels do absolutely nothing...
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