Suddenly cut off after lossing electrical power on all inside lights and gauges. also has low charge. is it the alternator or battery? also the o2 wire is disconnect

pulsating brake pedal indicates that the ABS is active under brakes whether it is required or not
from the rest I would first have a fault scan done to find any faulty sensors
Try replacing the ECM with a known good unit as the scan fault readings may reveal a problem ECM

take it to your local auto parts store and have them test your charging system.

sounds like the alternator charging unit is not charging,itthen runs battery down while driving and cuts the power to the engine and electrical

stock car YJ ? , or all hacked up. (old cars get hacked)
2.5 or 4.0 liter engine? still have a real jeep alternator not upgraded?

loss of electrical power (first rule, we never need to guess.!!!)
not with a voltmeter. (tool that costs $20 )
alternator good (by what means, autozoned?) ( we can find out one car)
but low on gauge. what gauge in dash voltmeter.? sure...
i think you car has no charge lamp only the dash VM.

own an volt meter? a DMM? hand volt meter?

1: if the alternator charge lamp is stuck on driving.
2: is battery voltage at 13.3 to 15vdc with engine at 800 RPM idling
alternator belt not slipping, for sure.....???
if the battery voltage is near 12.5v and falling running that is
an Alternator system failure, note i said, system. !!!

this is first. if we get to here. we can find the real cause.
test 3:
is the charge lamp on keyon, and goes out running?
make sure the big fuse for the alternator in the engine bay fuse
box is not blown, 50amp?

I have no 95 FSM and my online source sucks for 95

Alternator dead: (alt good)
1: belt slipping . engine at 300rpm, nah.
2: fuse blown, the big one. (engine bay fuse box)
3: ;wrong alternator, there are many, most others will fail, even good ones.......
4: alternator ground bad. (end to end, to battery minus)
5: bad wiring to same. bad connections, any to battery or alt.
6: some jeeps the PCM has the field regulator, see link below.
ECU pin 20 , is field pin, it is on 95, 4.0L (engine not stated)

is the CEL lamp on, and throwing code 41 DTC?, alt, field errors?

the alt has 4 pins, battery, field,ground and voltage sense.
The reg is in the PCM. and if bad is a bad $3 transistor..
see same form for fix for that issue..

i think this is same as your. 1996 is big change year.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/1993-wrangler-pcm-ecu-ecm-pin-out-diagram-1170004/


you can test the alt, PCM wire pulled !, by full fielding the alt.
grounding the field term, no wires on field pin of alt.
see FSM for details on that.
The PCM modulates the field pin to control charge at all times.

You said some of the warning lights come on. Then you can get a free scan at Autozone, Advance, or Oreilys. If this is a 2004-2008 Ford truck, there were some issues with the charging circuit cutting out due to a low battery charge.

It sounds like the Ignition switch is cutting out. You can get full chassis wiring diagrams and fusebox layouts at Autozone.com after registering with the site for FREE. Look at your diagrams and pay attention to the Relays that are activated by the keyswitch.

The RPM increase is normal when the Alternator is completely free-wheeling. There can be a hotwire to the Alternator brushes which runs from the keyswitch to the Alternator. If this is cutting out, the Alternator can not charge.

Look at how the Temperature gauge receives its power. It is a clue to which Relay is bad or ground wire is loose. Especially if you still have a working fuel gauge.

The loading up with a discharging Battery is normal. Consider that all the electric controls work directly and proportionately off of the 13-14 Volt range when charging. Your fuel mix, timing, are all related to the Voltage feedback and what starts low, stays low corrupting those settings.

The diagrams will give you a better tool to work with if you cannot drive for a scan. Just view the chassis voltage as the Target. If you drop below the battery voltage when you test the chassis voltage there has to be a reason.

Sir. lets figure what is happening to fixing it
Your car`s battery is loosing it`s charge because it is not charged in proper manners thinking why ? Simply what charges the battery is the alternator after the car is running it the engine drive the alternator ant different speeds when alternator is revving faster with faster engine revs it produce lots of electric that the battery may don`t need and could harm the battery
when revving low the alternator my generate less than 12 voltage
the alternator is need something called the Regulators witch as name suggests regulates the voltage generated adjust it to constant limit that the car needs to work fine
alternator belt and pulley
have a good day Sir .
we are happy helping you any time

your alternator is probably buggered. check the voltage charge rate across the battery when the cars running expect 13.3 - 15 volts max. any less possibly replace alternator.

loose or poor contact to battery terminal

The power loss light goes on as a result of the alternator being bad.
Are you getting 'lifetime' guaranteed rebuilt alternators to replace the old ones?
If not, then the quality of the parts may not be good enough to run in your application.

Are the connections clean and shiny when removed?

If the alt.is bd, it will make your dash go crazy because now your running only on battery power. Not enough volts to run every electrical items