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Ive got an audi a4 2.4 v6 and want to change the cambelt. do i have to use a locking tool or can i put my own marks on the cam pulley and crank pulley before i remove it???
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The timing must be off. There is a crank lock that must be installed when changing the belt and also a holding "jig" that holds the cams in place while you are changing the belts. Also the cam pulleys must be separated and free from the cam shafts when installing the belt and tensioning in order for the engine to be timed correctly.
there are special tools pin to lock crank in correct position and cams have flat plate that goes across into both at rear of cams small section goes up from memory, the cam gears have no dowel pin/locating pin to camshaft you do bolts up last when all are locked in position and grenade pin (locking)pin in tensioner is removed and chain is tight then hold cams with shifter or spanner(wrench) on cam flats and do up cam gear to camshaft bolts on each cam.
hole in front cover just above crank pulley at 11O clock, blind blanking plug must be removed to put in chain tensioner pin, crank blanking plug on your left side when looking at crank pulley(side of block) remove and locking pin goes into there when at TDC no1. and cams should be in position to lock with plate as described above.may not be any timming marks on chains or gears due to the locking tools needed and relied on for correct position.
good luck if you feel confident.
some Mazda dealerships may lend tools if you ask nicely or know some one.
A diesel uses a different procedure. You'll need a tool to hold the camshaft pulley parallel to the top of the cylinder head. The timing mark to set TDC for piston #1 is located on top of bell housing. The pointer must be aligned on the diamond cut on the flywheel. A VW/Audi setting bar tool #2065A is needed to lock the camshaft in position. Lock the injection pumpin position using the special lock pin (VW/Audi special tool no. 2064). Caution: If the drive belt is broken or has jumped time, do not attempt to lock the sprocket at this time!!! You will also need VW/Audi special tool no. VW210 to measure belt tension between camshaft sproket and injection pump sprocket. So good luck.
You did it the right way. If you tried to make a full cam revolution you would have hit the pistons with the valves. Put the lower timing cover and crank pulley back on. If the cam marks are aligned right and the mark on the lower timing cover lines up with the mark on the crank pulley, you're good to go.
put number one cyl to tdc take out plug put long screwdriver down to check this if you are not sure /check marks on cam pulleys are correct at this point you need to use locking tool to hold pulleys still .if used before you would not have had a problem re fit belt tension turn over 2 times re check marks re check belt tension should be ok now unless valve has got bent moral always lock the camshafs on twin cam engines
There should be marks stamped into the cam and crank gears that need to line up with corresponding marks on the backing plate before you remove the cambelt.
If there are no markings, you need to make your own.
Rotate crank until at TDC (reinstall the crank drivebelt pulley loosely and front cover to do this, then take them off again)
Once at TDC, use correction fluid and mark the crank position twice - once on the crank gear itself and a corresponding mark on the backing plate.
Ditto for the cam gear.
Make sure these marks are aligned when cambelt is replaced, turn engine one full revolution when new cambelt is on to double check marks line up where they should and you're good to go.
Sometimes the cam isn't marked but the crank gear is. In that case line up the crank gear and use the above step to mark the cam gear.
Be precise as the cam gear will most likely move when you take the cambelt off due to tension from the cam on the rockers
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