My passenger front and rear windows will not work from either window switches and niether does the master door lock for the same sides. 99 jeep grand cherokee. The master door lock switch on the drivers side does lock the driver door though. The door lock switches on the passenger front and rear do work though. THe remote door lock works for all doors. any ideas??
SOURCE: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee driver side power windows do not work
I had the same problem with now power to windows, mirrors and seat. The common soulution is the orange and or black wire in the boot have broken between the door and post.
SOURCE: Power windows, door locks and mirrors inop.
Sounds familiar - I pulled the rubber boot back and found the black wire was broken. I stripped the wires and put on a couple bullet connectors (terminators) and all is good. Just wish I would have seen this post before I took the door panel off... Oh well...
SOURCE: HOW DO I CHANGE THE WATER PUMP ON A 99 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE ?
At least you have the 4 liter 6. Once you get all the **** out of the way its like replacing a W/P on an "old school" engine, very much like a Ford or Chevy straight 6. 1) Remove radiator top retainer (the metal U that looks like its the top of the radiator (#13 or 14mm sockets I think). 2) To completely get if off you also have to remove the grill (4-6 phillips screws), then 3) unbolt it from the tubular bumper retainers underneath the grill. 4) DO NOT remove the latch cable - no need. 5) Remove the top bolts holding down the fan shroud. Lift the shroud off its bottom "tabs" and push over the fan. 6) Using #10mm socket remove fan from fan clutch, then remove bolts holding fan clutch onto water pump pulley. 7) Pull out shroud, then fan, then fan clutch. Be very patient, lots of wiggling may be needed. 8) Locate belt tensioner on idler puller below the Power steering pump. Losen very little the pulleys center bolt (10mm), then use a 10mm w/entension to losen the pulley's tension (use counter clockwise/normal rotation to losen). 9) Draw a diagram of the belt routing - you will Never remember it correctly otherwise. 10) Tap the w/p pully and pull if off - do not hit radiator fins! 11) Drain the radiator (clockwise/right rotation opens petoc from factory radiators - counterclock used on aftermaket rads). 12) Remove lower raditor hose at radiator, then at pump (it will be a challenge). 13) Remove upper radiator hose from rad and from thermostat housing. 14) losen the Rubber heater hose from the metal hose screwed into the W/P. 15) Remove 4 bolts from W/P (13 or 14mm I think). The one at the 4oclock position is longer than the others. One is hidden at 6oclock.
16) Remove 2 bolts (14-15mm??) on bottom of Power Steering mount - these go through the W/P case to the block. You may also need to losen the top PS bolts so the PS Bracket can be loose at the W/P case. 17) Wiggle the W/P out from under the PS bracket. and pull off. (16b if needed, remove the upper idler pulley near the A/C unit.) 18) Remove the Thermostat (upper hose return) housing. Scrape off old gasket. Replace with 160deg or 190deg thermostat. Use silicone on gasket. 19) Carefully use a 17 or 19mm box wrench to remove the metal heater hose return line from the upper part of the old water pump. Coat threads with spark plug thread antiseize and screw onto new W/P. 20) Install new W/P gasket w/silcone, be careful to Not block the water holes. 21) Slide W/P under the P/S bracket and jiggle into place. Hand thread one of the top bolts to hold the W/P in place. 22) Insert the P/S bracket bolts and lightly tighten. 23) Jiggle W/P around and insert other bolts, start with the 6oc hidden bolt. Add remaining bolts and tighten to 25 or 250?ftlb (about 3/4 past socket-snug). 24) Tighten ALL P/S bolts. 25) Adjust metal heater pipe. Reinstall rubber heater hose. 26) Reinstall W/P pulley and Fan clutch, and upper idler if it was removed. 27) Thread NEW Belt on pulleys. 28) Tighten tension on idler. Tighten idler axle bolt. 29) Install lower rad hose. 30) Slide shroud over pulleys. 31) Install fan on clutch. 32) Clip shroud retainer bolt mounts back on top of radiator. 33) Install shroud. 34) Connect upper hose. 35) Reinstall radiator retainer. 36) Bolt retainer to Tubular bumper mounts. 37) Reinstall grill. 38) Wonder where the extra bolts etc are supposed to go. 39) Cuss - pray -cuss - pray. 40 ) sip some beer. 41) carefully inspect everything to ensure its back to the way it looked before (several pictures from a digital camera taken during the disassembly will help). 42) Close the rad petok. 43) Add 1 gallons of antifreeze. 44) Start engine and add another gallon of A/F. 45) Turn heater controls to HOT inside (no need for fan). 46) Water guage should show 180 to 210F. 47) Add 1 gallon of water. 48) Install New 18PSI rad cap. 49) Turn off engine and add water or A/F to overflow tank. 50) 1 hour later open Cap to see if level has settled. Add Water as needed to fill rad.
SOURCE: 1998 and 2000 jeep grand cherokee
This Info taken from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Cherokee
Hopefully this will answer your question.
The redesigned WJ 1999 Grand Cherokee shared just 127 parts with its predecessor. The structure was stiffened by PorscheEngineering for sharper steering and lighter weight. The spare tire wasrelocated from the side of the cargo compartment to under the floor togreat relief of owners. The two heavy pushrod V8 engines were replaced by chrysler's first clean sheet V8 since the 60's (SOHC aluminium heads, plastic intake), Chrysler's then-new PowerTech. Although this engine produced less torquethan both previous V8s, it was lighter and got much better fuel economyand provided similar on road performance figures (the 23 gallon fueltank was replaced with one of a 20.5 gallon capacity). The Inline 6engine was also updated in 1999. 10 horsepower (7.5 kW) was added byredesigning the intake manifold. The manual transmission was dropped with this model.
While other Jeep vehicles used the Mopar 5 x 4.5 bolt circle, thiswas the first Jeep following the 1987 Chrysler buyout to receive awider bolt pattern — 5 x 5. The 5 x 5 bolt pattern (also 5 x 127 mm),although common to GM rear wheel drive vehicles and light dutytrucks/vans, has spread beyond its use with GM (and Ford with their 1973 to 1978 LTDs and Lincolns). Chrysler first used the 5 x 5 pattern on full-size half-ton Dodge Ram pickups and Dodge Ramcharger SUVs in 1986.
A notable feature available in this generation was the automatic four wheel drive option called Quadra-Drive II.With three viscous clutches, it was one of only a few four wheel drivesystems at the time with triple locking differentals, joining thecontemporary Mercedes Gelandewagen, Mercedes Unimog and Magna SteyrPinzgauer, and the only one of the four with fully automatic operation,although the axle differentials could not be manually locked like inthe other three vehicles.
The 45RFE and 545RFE automatic transmission in the WJ was notable. It included three planetary gearsets rather than the two normally used in a four-speed automatic. Thisgave it six theoretical speeds, and it would have been the firstsix-speed transmission ever produced in volume, but it was programmedto only use five of these ratios. Four were used for upshifts, with adifferent second gear for downshifts. Although five of the six ratioswere used, Chrysler decided to call it a "4-speed automatic". In 2001,the programming was changed to make use of all six ratios. Rather thanhave six forward gears, the transmission was programmed to act as afive-speed with the alternate second gear for downshifts. The RPM at70 miles per hour (110 km/h) on a 545RFE is 2000 rpm, 200 rpm less thanthe 45RFE programming. 1999 and 2000 model year WJ owners can havetheir 45RFE transmission's programming flashed to enable the extra gearas both transmissions are physically the same. The 42RE 4-speedautomatic remained the transmission for the Inline 6 engine. It was notchanged from the previous model Grand Cherokee's.
SOURCE: 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear end humming
check the differential fluid in the rear differential. if the fluid is low, add fluid and see if the noise is still there, if the fluid level is ok see if the fluid appears metallic, if it is metallic looking or excessively thick it would be a good idea to have the bearings checked out. i am in the process of rebuilding a front differential on a 98 jeep grand cherokee for the same problem. the bearings inside the differential on the carrier and pinion gear were worn out causing a humming noise. if the wear is excessive the gears might also need to be replaced
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